Sexagenarian and the city
(Filed: 23/04/2006) telegraph uk
The stylist Patricia Field turned the cast of a certain television show into fashion icons, and dresses Meryl Streep in this year's must-see film. So who's next for the Field treatment, asks Kimberly Cutter? Step forward Hillary Clinton
For Patricia Field, nothing spells home quite like a big pink chandelier, a splash of leopard-print and a roomful of graffiti.
Patricia Field's new goal is to do a makeover on US presidential candidate, Hillary ClintonIt is 10am on a crisp spring morning in New York, and though the costume designer's new compound - a sprawling private town house on the Bowery and a two-level, 4,000sq ft shop next door - isn't quite finished, it's getting close. Inside the store, tall light columns plucked from the set of the forthcoming and much-anticipated fashion film The Devil Wears Prada (Field designed the costumes for its stars Meryl Streep and Anne Hathaway) illuminate the main floor, and a blue neon sign reading venus hangs above a wonderland of cheeky club-kid items such as thigh-high angora socks and rhinestone brass knuckles.
'Not bad,' says the raspy-voiced, sixtysomething designer, nodding and frowning pleasantly through a cloud of cigarette smoke, while several skinny boys flutter around her.
Field, who is best known as the fashion mastermind behind the television series Sex and the City, is dressed in flip-flops and sweatpants, with a fistful of glittering chains over her deeply freckled cleavage. She's still beautiful, but in a weathered, Pirate Queen sort of way. Her toenails are painted the colour of dried blood. Her hair is a flaming maraschino-cherry red - she has been dyeing it since her thirties when it started going grey ('so I went yellow, pink, chartreuse… then I dyed it red').
Although she is most famous for putting Sarah Jessica Parker into Chanel couture and Meryl Streep into Prada, it's her edgy, raunchy, glam-rocking, ***-hag-loving Lower East Side store that best represents the beating core of Patricia Field. 'My life and my work, it's all together,' Field says later, perched on an enormous leopard-print ottoman in her home, where she is joined by her two little white poodles, Puttana (Italian for 'wh*re') and Sultana. There are planets painted on the walls. There is a bar as long as a Cadillac. Outside there is a garden entirely upholstered in bright green Astroturf. 'I work with my friends.
I always have; we're a family,' Field says, taking a long, ruminative drag on her cigarette. Many of her employees have been around since she opened her first store, on Eighth Street (right next door to New York University's Greenwich Village campus), back in 1966. Although she had always been interested in fashion - she pestered her parents for a Burberry trench coat aged seven - the boutique wasn't so much a passion as a way to make money.
'I had to work, and basically thought I could do this easily and be successful.' A native New Yorker - her parents had immigrated from Lesbos and Istanbul - Field had studied philosophy at NYU, and still lists Plato's Symposium and the Memoirs of Hadrian as her favourite books. 'Having gone to NYU, I knew the lay of the land and knew I had a captive audience,' she explains.
Indeed, Field's idiosyncratic mix of punk fashion, racy lingerie and camp, glittering accessories soon became synonymous with downtown New York's rapidly evolving nocturnal style. Pretty boys came into Field's narrow, packed store to buy their first pairs of heels, while girls stocked up on studded bras and black lipstick.
In the mid-1980s Field started designing costumes for television and film, including Michael Mann's short-lived series Crime Story and the comedy Spin City. In 1989 she won an Emmy. But perhaps more importantly, in 1992 she met Sarah Jessica Parker.
'Sarah Jessica and I worked together on a romantic comedy called Miami Rhapsody,' says Field, who designed the costumes for the film, 'and we got along very well. She wasn't someone who was known for her style at the time, but even then, she had strong opinions about fashion and she knew her stuff.'
Parker apparently thought the same of Field, because when it came to choosing a costume designer for HBO's new series, Sex and the City, she suggested Field. Although they initially worked to a shoestring budget and had trouble finding designers willing to lend clothes to the fledgling series (Parker has said, 'For a long time, nobody would give us anything; not a frock, not a shoe. Then Fendi lent us the Baguettes for the second season and suddenly the floodgates opened'), there was clearly terrific chemistry.
'Sarah Jessica and I took off running. I think as Carrie she could experiment with clothes in a way she never would in her own life.'
Field describes Carrie's style in the beginning as 'a funky mix' of classic, vintage and junk. Yet by the fourth season, couture pieces were making regular appearances, and Carrie Bradshaw had metamorphosed into a serious fashion icon. Gold nameplate necklaces and floppy silk flower pins were everywhere. Manolo Blahnik had become a household name and the then-editor-in-chief of American Harper's Bazaar, Kate Betts, called Sex and the City 'the new fashion authority'.
Suddenly Davis's prim Charlotte was showing up in sexy-but-elegant Narciso Rodriguez and Prada. Kim Cattrall had sculpted her fortysomething abs into those of a teenager and was baring them for all who cared to look in racy frocks by Versace and Dolce & Gabbana.
Even Cynthia Nixon's practical Miranda submitted to braces, a flattering new hairstyle and clothes by Catherine Malandrino and Gaultier. 'In a way, I think Cynthia was the biggest transformation, because she's really not a celebrity type. In the beginning, she didn't have much interest in fashion. She was an actress, a mother, a normal person.
But as time went along, she got more and more into it. Sarah Jessica really
inspired everybody. S he'd get the other girls to come into the wardrobe room and we would play for hours.'
But not everyone would submit to Field's ideas with the same abandon. 'There was one vision I had for Charlotte,' Field says wryly, 'which was to inject a little Bettie Page into her look. I thought, let's work that bottom and that tiny little waist! But Kristin would never go quite as far as I'd have liked.' And even Parker and Field had disagreements at times. 'We didn't always love each other's ideas but we just kept working until we found ideas we both liked.'
Field was Sarah Jessica Parker's stylist for Sex and the CityDoes she feel she deserves more credit for Parker's transformation from quirky-looking comedienne to A-list trend-setter and Gap poster girl? 'No. I think I get a lot of credit. I'm a little embarrassed about all the credit in fact because I'm not comfortable with bouquets being thrown at me,' says Field, perhaps referring to her Emmy nomination for her work on the show.
'But as far as Sarah Jessica's style goes, it was collaborative. I don't think she could have done it without me, but I definitely couldn't have done it without her. We trusted each other and had fun.'
Such fun, one imagines, was not as easy to come by on the set of Field's most recent project, The Devil Wears Prada, due out in October. From the beginning, the costume-element for the film-version of the excoriating autobiographical novel by Lauren Weisberger - former assistant to Anna Wintour, the editor of American Vogue - has been the subject of fierce and catty industry speculation. Would any designers dare to lend Field clothes for the film, for instance? And if they did, would they find themselves banished from the pages of Vogue for ever?
According to Field, this wasn't actually an issue (though it's funny watching Field navigating the tricky territory between 'not wanting to turn Streep into Anna Wintour' and making it clear she doesn't think there's anything wrong with looking like Anna Wintour).
'I wasn't anywhere near the controversy about Anna Wintour,' says Field, whose presence at the Paris Couture shows of Christian Lacroix and Armani - often only a few seats from Wintour in the front row - had the press buzzing last summer, 'because for starters I had Meryl Streep, and there's no way I am going to make her look like Anna Wintour.'
Field shakes her head. 'I mean, I'm not Houdini! And even if I had an actress who I could have made into a Wintour look-alike, I wouldn't have done it. It's boring. Not that she's boring, but we all know what she looks like. There wouldn't have been a challenge.'
Nevertheless, Field acknowledges that there were still some designers who didn't want to lend clothes for fear of offending Wintour. 'Maybe 25 or 30 per cent of the designers I spoke to, but that was fine because, you know, there are so many designers. They made it an issue in the press because that's their business. But it was not an issue. It didn't affect me.'
Field's main objective, she says, was to make Streep look great. 'And the other thing was to make her look like she wears expensive clothes.' Field adds that she didn't want to use very recognisable designer clothes because 'I didn't want it to be the typical thing: you see the movie and recognise everything because you've seen it in magazines 20 times already. Not trendy.
I can't do trendy. People say I create trends. Maybe I do but I don't do it as a plan. Usually I do something and people like it and then it becomes a trend.'
For inspiration, Field looked to the wealthy ladies who frequent trunk shows in places such as Dallas and Palm Beach. 'Like the Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass ladies, that was my inspiration.' So does the devil ever, in fact, wear Prada? 'Yes, she does wear a little bit of Prada, but not too much.'
It is Anne Hathaway who ends up wearing the most labels. 'Anne's character starts off as a girl who has no interest in fashion, and then someone dresses her from the magazine's closet - that was the moment to use the really recognisable Chanel, the Valentino, the Dolce & Gabbana, the Calvin Klein.'
Meanwhile, back on the planet of Patricia Field, life goes on as usual but, thanks to the success of Field's Hollywood projects ('I've made more money than I could ever have dreamed of'), on a much more lavish scale. She opened her new store on the Bowery a couple of weeks ago, with the same mix of club clothes - hers was the first place to sell the singer-turned-successful-fashion-label-owner Gwen Stefani's designs - and statement accessories. 'My old customers are happy I've moved. They think I belong on the East Side. It's not as gentrified as the rest of Manhattan.'
As for Field, her only goal now is to do a makeover on Hillary Clinton. 'I would like to work with her because I think I could help. It's really important to pay attention to your appearance. She wants to be president and unfortunately it's not just your brain and your intention that gets you elected.'
So what would be Field's vision? Footless tights and miniskirt, perhaps? 'I'll have to get with her to know what my vision is.' She pauses and smiles. 'You don't go out on the tennis court in a football helmet, you know. You gotta understand exactly what the game's about.