Theyskens' Theory Pre-Fall 2012

[TianSoFine]

^I was thinking the same thing!

Overall, I do like this collection but expected a little more.

 

[missnyc]

He needs to be back to couture, I think. This is to bleh for such a genius

 

[Wolkfolk]

Totally loving this. Even though it's a bit underwhelming compared to his previous collections, he's still right on point. Everything looks dangerously appealing, from the sick dresses to the perfectly cut jackets and coats. The styling is also impeccable as usual.
My only real problem is with the footwear, I'm usually head over heels for his shoes but those boots aren't really working for me. This being said, Olivier delivered another great collection and one thing is sure his Theory girl is definitely my kind of girl

 

[Elle M]

Is there a video on this ? Does anyone know ?

 

[mackos]

I'm really liking this, beautiful furs and embellishments.

I usually don't say that, but I love this specific angle of his this time, works so well with the lightning and this fantastic nonchalance the collection has to it.

 

[abadonna]

the SS 12 was amazing and this is even better, love it

 

[Stereo_Flo]

By Nicole Phelps​

Olivier Theyskens has so thoroughly and handily embraced the jeans and T-shirts that are the meat and potatoes of the Theory brand that you could forget he's the guy behind Madonna's gothiest red-carpet moment and the man who made women swoon for Edwardian-inspired gowns at Rochas. For pre-fall, he showed a floor-length silk shirtdress in an electrified mineral print that took you back to his mid-aughts heyday at that French house, with its buttoned-up-to-the-throat neckline, high armholes, and slightly elevated waist. This time around, of course, it has an everyday kind of ease that has become his calling card at Theyskens' Theory since arriving for Spring 2011. More proof that he's clued into his clients' everyday lives: a knee-high boot with a chunky heel and an internal wedge to add an extra inch or so of height—smart.

"I wanted pre-fall to be a bit darker than Spring," he said at his Meatpacking District studio. An artificial rock, of all things, inspired the collection's warm palette, along with the prints, which ranged from abstract line drawings on what could be the world's softest tank tops to a tiny flower motif on a short dress with floaty ankle-grazing skirt panels. Another cool idea in a similar silhouette: super-wide-leg pants with a split panel in back. "I was scared of my own drawing," he said, when pointing them out on a model. "But now I love them." Yep, he's definitely getting the hang of this thing.

-style​

by Chioma Nnadi​

Olivier Theyskens has earned several monikers over the course of his career, one of his loving nicknames being the Prince of Darkness. So when the Belgian-born, New York–based designer says he wants to go a little darker with his line for Theory, one can only imagine the ethereal storm cloud of ideas swirling in his mind’s eye. As it happens, one of the starting points for pre-fall was light, and specifically the way it refracts off translucent surfaces. He took a series of photos of an iridescent prism, and the resulting images were abstracted to form woozy puddles of color on silk shirtdresses and button-downs. One photo print on a long diaphanous white dress looked like daisies scattered in the wind, certainly more romantic than melancholic. Ditto for the sheer black leggings encrusted with flower-like arrangements of beads and sequins.

Of course the collection wasn’t short on deliciously dark staples, like black leather blazers that dipped from front to back and sinewy crewneck knits and T-shirts. The extra-wide-leg cobalt-blue trousers that were a hit in his first season were back, only this time around, the look was part skirt, part palazzo pant, and came with a billowing, shimmering train. Having been at the helm of two prestigious French houses in the past, Theyskens still appreciates the finer details and was proud to point out that the tweed of his cropped jackets is custom-made in France. That being said, for a man who once designed dresses with a couture level of intricacy, it’s surprising just how quickly he’s adjusted his eye to meet the needs of the urban working wardrobe. Theysken’s studio is a few blocks away from the brand’s New York flagship store in the Meatpacking District, and it’s clear he’s learned a lot from watching women shop the racks. Dismantle the looks from his new collection, and each piece has a shoppable appeal of its own. After the death-defying platforms that came down the runway last season, he’s aiming to connect with his customer where accessories are concerned too. His new knee-high combat boots kept the new collection comfortably grounded—and comfortably cool.

-vogue​