Theyskens' Theory S/S 2014 New York

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Deleted member 119799]

yikes, what happened here???

it just looks painful

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

i have to disagree. i love the progression he makes each season with this brand

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Easy to wear, great pieces. Commercial success that can be incorporated within every type of wardrobe.

 

[Bernadette]

yikes, what happened here???

it just looks painful

I agree with you. Olivier Theyskens WAS an excellent fashion designer.



Rochas S/S 2006. Photo Credit: coolspotters.com

 

[valliaddict]

I still think he's a great designer. We have to remember that he isn't designing for the French woman anymore. He's designing for the cool NY girl now, & although his work at Theory is very different from his work at Nina Ricci/Rochas, I can still see his design DNA in the clothes. He's always been great at deconstruction, & this is no exception. I especially love the opening look. So chic & versatile. There are some great pieces in here that can be worn many ways. I say bravo.

 

[Zazie]

This is very pretty, even though it's a down-to-earth, simple collection.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

This is hit and miss for me; there are some nice layered looks here, but I am not that fond of the sheer pieces.

 

[disco54]

I thought this is quite beautiful and a definite progression
The dress over the fluid pants is a very fresh and easy silhouette
He is a very gifted designer and it does show here

 

[masquerade]

I actually think Theory is a great match for Theyskens. At Rochas and Nina Ricci his work was so ethereal and fancy that it likely couldn't find an audience. If I recall correctly, he did complete shows of floor length gowns/evening looks. It was beautiful, but not necessarily commercially viable. Theory, being a really simple, business fashion label brings him down to earth a bit. Its still ethereal in many ways, but its much more wearable in an everyday sense.

 

[Gooner 4 Lyfe]

This is hit and miss for me; there are some nice layered looks here, but I am not that fond of the sheer pieces.

Agreed. I might have really liked this collection if not for the sheer.

 

[Fiercification]

I actually think Theory is a great match for Theyskens. At Rochas and Nina Ricci his work was so ethereal and fancy that it likely couldn't find an audience. If I recall correctly, he did complete shows of floor length gowns/evening looks. It was beautiful, but not necessarily commercially viable. Theory, being a really simple, business fashion label brings him down to earth a bit. Its still ethereal in many ways, but its much more wearable in an everyday sense.

Very nicely put! I think that this collection would appeal to me more if it had been styled a bit more 'up' I guess...as it sort of lacks that instant vitality that some of his work at Theory had. Nevertheless there are plenty of strong pieces here, and I particularly like the black jacket/top/shirt over dress looks in the middle portion of the show.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

He probably could have pushed himself a bit more but I do think it's a lovely collection. The first half is a better version of Alexander Wang, the second is very Antwerp circa 2001. Not bad, not amazing, but not bad.

 

[Pricciao]

I like the first half, but the color block and crop top/super low rise combo don't really work.

 

[elle_gb]

It's weird collection to me as I always love his work but at last I get to see a color which is very surprising.

 

[Bernadette]

September 09, 2013 New York
By Nicole Phelps

Layers were Olivier Theyskens' thing this season. "It's always a mystery to see the suitcases of my girlfriends; it's all these silly tank tops, but girls put it together. They love layering," he said backstage after his show. Not exactly a deep thought, but it got Theyskens' creative mojo going. This was a focused collection. It felt like he had a lot to say, about proportion and silhouette, first and foremost, but also about color.

The tank tops he mentioned backstage got a lot of play. Layered over looser tees, they created soft, peplumlike shapes. Below the waist, pieces were doubled up, too. Biker shorts peeked out from beneath the hems of basketball shorts, or longer skirts extended several inches below shorter ones. The tiered effect made the models look extra-long, a visual that was accentuated by their platform sandals. Real girls might just consider going through all those steps if it means looking like these runway giants. But if not, a ribbed knit sweater over a long, narrow skirt with multiple split seams produced the same willowy results.

Most of the collection came in shades of black, gray, and navy. Since arriving at Theory over three years ago, Theyskens has been fairly color-averse, so the end of the show felt like a real departure. Experimenting with sheer layers of silk, he showed delicate slipdresses over cropped tanks and floor-length skirts. Pink over pale blue and red, or orange over yellow and pink. They looked fresh and breezy. We hope that retailers take him up on the idea come Spring.

Source: style.com

 

[VogueDisciple93]

by Cathy Horyn
published: September 10, 2013

Olivier theyskens, on the other hand, has a pedigree. He worked at rochas and nina ricci before being brought to theory by andrew rosen to show that a top designer could give a popular label an edge. And initially the idea worked. But increasingly mr. Theyskens’s collections seem the work of an amateur.

His latest collection should have been left in the showroom. It consisted of ordinary separates — blazers, pencil skirts, knits, shorts, black chiffon pants — layered in a slim silhouette, often with a rochas ruffle at the hem. Since mr. Theyskens exhausted his idea quickly, he threw in some silly slip dresses in bright colors.

The whole thing was banal, with no thought or energy given to a new way of wearing layers, much less to design.

Nytimes.com

Amen