Balenciaga (This show really hit the point of what I wanted to see somebody doing, sort of a baroque-rockstar, but not in a blunt Versace-way but rather modernist, with a couturish feel... I loved the hugh, ruffled collars, tone-on-tone Lésage embroidery and 18th centuries, from the pantssuits to the huge peplum jackets... this was magnificant in it´s entirety)
Bruno Pieters (This was couture but much more approachable and easy to wear... all of the pieces were comfortable to wear, carefully detailed (with all those tiny fabric-coated buttons and trompe-l'oeill details)... and those
shoes!!!! What a pity they´re not going to make them, they were gorgeously detailed, with the metallic-printed, specially engraved leather and that cute, but not too high heel...
Yohji Yamamoto (From the baggy raw denim jeans to the white shirts, camouflage-printed section and tailcoat-variations, everything was amazingly cut and shaped... not so sure about the ropes and the wedding dress (I think he already did better ones), but it was lightyears better than CdG´s cruelty!)
Ann Demeulemeester (Her floorlength satin skirts were some of the chicest offerings she has made in a while, I also liked the jewelry-mesh accents on pockets and belts, plus the voluminous shirt and dangling puffsleeve accents)
Nicolas Andreas Taralis (Although the presentation was such a mess, I agree the photos are terrible but the clothes themselves are nice, especially when you consider he´s practically only in his second season, I bet he´ll do a great job in the next few years)
Rochas (The pantsuits were fabulous, but the genius is only on second sight since their key feature is the fabric, both strong and stretchy, yet light as air, very personal and effortless (due to the linen))
YSL (The gowns were fabulous, as were some pantsuits and ruffled collars, yet I didn´t like the shoes... but to be honest, I never really liked Pilati´s a lot, except from the tasseled suede loafers... the waitresses were very nicely dressed as well in their all-wine-red-looks)
Rick Owens (the jackets are just "wow"!)
Jens Laugesen (for a successful shift from conceptual experimentalism towards a more approachable, yet interesting and beautiful direction)
Preen (I actually liked their draping much better than Sophia Kokosalaki´s this season)
I disliked the following (without considering LAMB, Beyoncé or the other celeb-designer-crap
Comme Des Garcons,
Viktor & Rolf &
Bernhard Willhelm.
For me, anyway, NY produced the most wearable clothes (and I already exhaustively listed my favorites there 
