UK Vogue September 2020 : The Faces of Hope

I feel bad for not really liking these covers because I do support and applaud many of the individuals featured but WOW this is not fashion. I want to dream and escape from reality when I read Vogue and this, while educational, is just not what I want from this magazine. Also this makes me miss Franca so much...

The problem today is « how to dream and escape from reality » at a time when major things are happening?
Can Vogue US/UK can afford to sell a dream? Maybe the new dream is the reality of diversity, inclusivity and all...

‘The issue for me is how can we merge social discussions and glamour in a magazine where at it core, the main goal is to sell things we don’t need!

Now I realize that This is the first time a black photographer is shooting a cover of UK Vogue.
It’s great and yet quite embarrassing. It’s insane it took all of that time for Edward to do that...

I guess, this September will be the blackest month in the entire history of fashion publications! I
 
The main cover looks like WSJ. I sort of like it, a stoic monochrome image that is polished and might be memorable in time to come. Sad that the remaining covers are formatted exactly like last September's issue...that's a little unforgivable to me.

I'm not going to get into the topic of discussion here. It's 2020 and whilst I would like to see more overt fashion on covers, magazines are virtually void of any cultural relevance and Edward is trying to do what he think is right and speaks to his audience today. I'm sure a lot of people that he's trying to reach out to will appreciate this.

At the end of the day he's one of the few black figures who's managed to have a few successful career for close to thirty years and has played by other (white) people's rules, so who am I to say that he shouldn't try and bring issues close to his heart to the fore now that the shoe is on the other foot? Especially given the watershed moment that occured in late May/June.
 
and you all complained about Alexandra shulman, she direct the magazine for 25 years, 25 years and she created a really Great job, there were some fake steps, but it's human to make mistakes, since Edward is in charge is a logical thread, he brought with him Steven Meisel, Craig mcdean, Mert &Marcus, Steven Klein, all top photographers of american Vogue, we should have seen amazing issues, instead always the same thing, nothing new !!! how much I regret the times of testino Kate and lucinda with Alexandra at the head
 
This is the first time a black photographer is shooting a cover of UK Vogue.

Well, Nadine Ijewere shot Dua Lipa for the Jan 2019 cover, so technically she's the first black photographer to shoot a UK Vogue cover.
Not aimed at you personally, but do you see how easy it is to get the facts twisted? Now imagine how many more churnalism websites will get it wrong in the coming days? This photographer is bargaining on that. The fact that he saw the need to create a special gender category in order for him to be 'the first black male photographer', especially in a field that until only recently started actively pushing for more female photographers, is cringe and speaks more on his ego than anything else. He just couldn't allow a woman to hold that honour on her own. To me it has the same effect as Stella McCartney saying that she is 'the first fashion designer to appear on the cover of US Vogue'.

Just say 'I'm honoured to have gotten the opportunity as a black photographer', still sounds impacting. It may seem like I'm splitting hairs here but at the core, the confusion takes away from Nadine's achievement.
 
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The problem today is « how to dream and escape from reality » at a time when major things are happening?
Can Vogue US/UK can afford to sell a dream? Maybe the new dream is the reality of diversity, inclusivity and all...

‘The issue for me is how can we merge social discussions and glamour in a magazine where at it core, the main goal is to sell things we don’t need!

Now I realize that This is the first time a black photographer is shooting a cover of UK Vogue.
It’s great and yet quite embarrassing. It’s insane it took all of that time for Edward to do that...

I guess, this September will be the blackest month in the entire history of fashion publications! I

Let’s be frank Lola: Is it really diverse/inclusive/relatable when, time and time again, Edward continues to exclude Asian presence from his Vogue? Or, when he does include an Asian, it’s blatantly out of (obligated) tokenism. It’s fine if he wants a Black prominence for his Vogue— just like it’s fine that Emmanuelle has kept her Vogue predominantly White (and she’s never been a hypocrite and blasted some faux-virtue of inclusivity/diversity of her Vogue the way that Edward has). Edward's just not inclusive at all so people should stop saying he is.

Just on visuals alone, the covershot is unique, striking and gorgeous and tells a story (and a fashions story). Adwoa is gorgeous and striking here and she sells the shot and story. I hope the rest of the feature story is as strong. I don’t know if Misan is capable of the brand of talent and creative vision that the best of fashion photographers are. I hope so (and not just another Tyler..). Because representation shouldn’t be what sustains you— even if it’s what gets you through the door.

(You know, it’s funny how the masses may have been more supportive of Black issues, but may remain racist/discriminating towards other POC. I was working remotely with a client from the Southern US, and after the job was done, we had become somewhat friendly. The conversation shifted to the current socio-political state of the US. He said that many people are more open and supportive of Black issues now— but they’re still not accepting and welcoming of Asians. And he didn’t know I was Asian all this time. His admittance isn’t any confirmation of an entire population of people’s hypocrisy— just that his off-the-cuff statement is in line with my own personal observations and experiences of how people’s general attitude. And openly displayed by Edward, sadly.)
 
I wanted to like the cover since the layout is something new to Vogue UK, but Adwoa and Marcus literally do not have a chemistry in the photo. It just looks awkward to me.

I don't really care about the foldout covers since this whole "activism" thing becomes too pretentious now. Last year we had a collage cover for September, so this isn't groundbreaking enough for their biggest issue of the year.

As much as I respect Edward as their EIC, he doesn't know how to publish a decent September issue.
 
The cover in itself needed more attitude and for them to not look so distant from one another, I get it he wanted to display a certain heroic estoicism but it just looks uninviting.

I personally do not care for fashion publications getting involved in social causes but knowing him and the times we're living in it was unavoidable. At least it has a tiny bit of a fashion element...

IMO Love managed to capture "hope" much better with all the color and joy of their different covers.
 
As surprising as it sounds, I don’t dislike the main cover itself I find it quite appealing in a story telling perspective. Adowa will never be a model that I would be thrilled to see for a fashion subject but here as for the message Edward tries to convey. It is fine. That is pretty much all the praise I got for this.
The moment of truth.
It is very shameful for Edward keeps championing himself as the advocate in the industry to promote Diversity. His Vogue is not Vogue UK It’s Vogue Black and this black is not even UK black, it is your usual American Black.
Black people are facing a lot of issues. Some of which come from within, some of which some from the society. And the issues they face differ from culture to culture and countries to countries. Not every black community is facing what black community is facing in USA. Address the issue in the base is at least paying respect to the title you are holding and that is Vogue UK if you really want to do it. Yes we haven’t read the content of the magazine but it is not hard to predict what might be there to read. (And also how you transfer one article about some serious social justice issue to makeup and fashion? Doesn’t that look absurd?)
He should be removed from his position. All his doing is ruining the brand that is Vogue.
 
I know it´s 2020 and there are bigger problems than to complain about a fashion magazine but I wonder how advertizers feel about the lack of fashion lately on british Vogue...?
 
I can't say for sure, but I'm going to assume their numbers over this period have been high. I'd be very surprised if we didn't see Vogue post strong sales over these months. With that in mind, I can't imagine the brands are too concerned.

Though I have to say, Edward's reign at British Vogue has (for me anyway) shifted the emphasis from the clothing featured on a cover to the subject being the headline act. In the past we might have got a model or a celebrity and instantly I'd have been like 'oh there's that Miu Miu dress again', or 'That Balenciaga jacket'. I don't rate Alexandra for much, but her covers definitely had the clothing ever present. Even if it was a bad Kors outfit.

Edward's covers have really pushed the items the subject is wearing backwards to the point where here for this cover, I'd say they are almost entirely irrelevant. Only a few stand out for me as being equally as about the fashion as the subject.
 
Mert & Marcus and Craig McDean shot covers for Alex Shulman.
 
Let’s be frank Lola: Is it really diverse/inclusive/relatable when, time and time again, Edward continues to exclude Asian presence from his Vogue? Or, when he does include an Asian, it’s blatantly out of (obligated) tokenism. It’s fine if he wants a Black prominence for his Vogue— just like it’s fine that Emmanuelle has kept her Vogue predominantly White (and she’s never been a hypocrite and blasted some faux-virtue of inclusivity/diversity of her Vogue the way that Edward has). Edward's just not inclusive at all so people should stop saying he is.

Just on visuals alone, the covershot is unique, striking and gorgeous and tells a story (and a fashions story). Adwoa is gorgeous and striking here and she sells the shot and story. I hope the rest of the feature story is as strong. I don’t know if Misan is capable of the brand of talent and creative vision that the best of fashion photographers are. I hope so (and not just another Tyler..). Because representation shouldn’t be what sustains you— even if it’s what gets you through the door.

(You know, it’s funny how the masses may have been more supportive of Black issues, but may remain racist/discriminating towards other POC. I was working remotely with a client from the Southern US, and after the job was done, we had become somewhat friendly. The conversation shifted to the current socio-political state of the US. He said that many people are more open and supportive of Black issues now— but they’re still not accepting and welcoming of Asians. And he didn’t know I was Asian all this time. His admittance isn’t any confirmation of an entire population of people’s hypocrisy— just that his off-the-cuff statement is in line with my own personal observations and experiences of how people’s general attitude. And openly displayed by Edward, sadly.)
I don’t want this diversity issue to be a war within minorities...
That being said, the recent wake of diversity of the whole industry only happen because The Industry, as a whole (Edward included) failed to create voices and opportunities for black people.
Why is there some sort of double standard? Because in this issue, where capitalism is at the center of everything, the Asian community, and it diaspora has managed to find and create voices in it territories and beyond. Their economic power has made them essential in the industry. In the past, it was mainly Japanese people but over years, from Singapore to South-Korea, the Asian community seems to be represented as a whole and in every positions in the industry. It diaspora has also a presence, even if it’s not enough...
So you have people who have felt invisible for a whole decade and who are now demanding to be represented, something that never happened before. Maybe it’s also time for other people of color to be allies and to insert themselves in the discussions...
But at the same time, if we follow the tap for tap logic, I don’t think black people have felt that the Asian fashion community was an ally in this war for diversity and representation...

Emmanuelle has managed to get away with that because in France, everything is not as over-political as it is in the US. And I would add that black people does not care about Vogue because it does not have the same cultural impact here. There’s little representation of people of color in the media anyway and because the concept of race is forbidden, racial statistics are forbidden and it’s difficult to have discussions regarding diversity without them being categorized as victimization.

The only thing I hate about this discussion around diversity, responsability and all the words ending by « ity », even more since the death of George Floyd, is that people do not use it as an opportunity to discuss the same issues they faces in their countries. By not addressing those precise issues, the conversation will remain superficial.

I find it ridiculous for example to ask Vogue HK to be part of the « Hope » thing.

‘I’m actually curious to see how Emmanuelle will handle that (if she does).
 
Though I have to say, Edward's reign at British Vogue has (for me anyway) shifted the emphasis from the clothing featured on a cover to the subject being the headline.

And by extension, himself. He's very good at gaining worldwide coverage for the magazine - but we're all well aware that print won't last forever, so he's already ensuring his profile is in place as an influential figure "leading the way" ...into the appointments that will come after this one.

Too many magazine editors have been unceremoniously sacked - or have "left to write books" - for someone not to be planning far ahead for life beyond the job.
 
As surprising as it sounds, I don’t dislike the main cover itself I find it quite appealing in a story telling perspective. Adowa will never be a model that I would be thrilled to see for a fashion subject but here as for the message Edward tries to convey. It is fine. That is pretty much all the praise I got for this.
The moment of truth.
It is very shameful for Edward keeps championing himself as the advocate in the industry to promote Diversity. His Vogue is not Vogue UK It’s Vogue Black and this black is not even UK black, it is your usual American Black.
Black people are facing a lot of issues. Some of which come from within, some of which some from the society. And the issues they face differ from culture to culture and countries to countries. Not every black community is facing what black community is facing in USA. Address the issue in the base is at least paying respect to the title you are holding and that is Vogue UK if you really want to do it. Yes we haven’t read the content of the magazine but it is not hard to predict what might be there to read. (And also how you transfer one article about some serious social justice issue to makeup and fashion? Doesn’t that look absurd?)
He should be removed from his position. All his doing is ruining the brand that is Vogue.

So he should be fired for addressing racism in his magazine? That’s a very problematic statement.

Moving on.

The BLM movement (and the racial injustices) in America were the catalyst for this current global movement. So it’s not that illogical he uses a Black Panther image as inspiration for this cover to depict the fight against racism. And besides the iconography of the Black Panthers is so ingrained in pop culture that I think it resonates on a global level with a lot of people.

And why is Vogue UK not Vogue UK anymore because it’s black? It’s been white for decades. Was it more Vogue UK then?

And it’s really unfair to say that he is only making this about America before even reading the contents. A lot of people on the fold out are British and are fighting on a national level against racism and inequality.
 

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