Undercover F/W 0506
- Thread starter releasenchiu
- Start date
D
Deleted member 1957
Guest
what were they trying to do to the models? put their beauty 'undercover?' some of those shoes are the ugliest i ve seen in a while maybe the brown boots and the whole look aint so bad
from www.fashionweekdaily.com
UNDERCOVER. Learn it, love it, wear it.
PARIS: Wednesday, March 02, 2005
"We make noise not clothes." Printed on a simple t-shirt under a whorled, precisely-seamed black jacket sliced open to reveal white beneath it was a tongue-in-cheek ironic statement that said more than many a hard-working PR department could muster for Jun Takahashi's spectacular Undercover show. He showed just why he can manage to fill a mirrored ballroom at Le Grand Hôtel with all the biggest of the big press and buyers clustered around little tables sipping wine/juice/water (according to choice and availability).
"That was his best ever! Didn't you love it!!" a jubilant American store buyer majoring in Japanese designers was heard to trill after the finale.
She had plenty to be happy about. From the opening segment where, to the sound of children in a playground, a fine-striped, grown-up school uniform gave way to what that Etonian might get up to at the weekends—read: a narrow hacking jacket—to the parade of three quartets of different shaded twinkling Huzzar jackets that closed this powerful show, Takahashi's hand was as sure and focused as possible. It was an extraordinary breath of imagination.
And the utter perfection of the tailoring was astounding. The boiled wool trench with check collar, the chic pieced sweatshirt worn with wide pants and a cocked hat, the jabot spilling down a blouse, punched and appliquéd camouflage on a wool bomber, plays on the trench, rippling outside seams, and an edge-to-edge jacket braided with chain and sweetly decorated with inserted razor blades like apocalyptic Chanel.
And yet this wasn't a try-out in case there's a job vacancy at a big house (Hermès sprang particularly to mind), as everything was pulled through to become something more. Goatskin skirts were cut through with leather ruffles, external seam allowances curved on the arms of a fur-topped bolero, and the mountains called in a sherpa segment of layered capes and looped fabric laid on to look like the pelt of Himalayan sheep.
Even the tricksier effects—an external seamed coat with a superimposed charcoal waistcoat traced in crystals, a scarf morphing into a jacket's hood— seemed effortless and right. Occasionally Takahashi might throw something unsurprising into the mix like leopard print, or like punched leather skulls that eventually cascaded in tiers over a long jacket front.
But if you ever wanted to know how a directional, progressive designer could make eminently wearable and heart-stoppingly desirable clothing that you'll want to keep forever without managing to lose any of his spirited, individualist energy, here's your textbook case.
KARL TREACY
UNDERCOVER. Learn it, love it, wear it.
PARIS: Wednesday, March 02, 2005
"We make noise not clothes." Printed on a simple t-shirt under a whorled, precisely-seamed black jacket sliced open to reveal white beneath it was a tongue-in-cheek ironic statement that said more than many a hard-working PR department could muster for Jun Takahashi's spectacular Undercover show. He showed just why he can manage to fill a mirrored ballroom at Le Grand Hôtel with all the biggest of the big press and buyers clustered around little tables sipping wine/juice/water (according to choice and availability).
"That was his best ever! Didn't you love it!!" a jubilant American store buyer majoring in Japanese designers was heard to trill after the finale.
She had plenty to be happy about. From the opening segment where, to the sound of children in a playground, a fine-striped, grown-up school uniform gave way to what that Etonian might get up to at the weekends—read: a narrow hacking jacket—to the parade of three quartets of different shaded twinkling Huzzar jackets that closed this powerful show, Takahashi's hand was as sure and focused as possible. It was an extraordinary breath of imagination.
And the utter perfection of the tailoring was astounding. The boiled wool trench with check collar, the chic pieced sweatshirt worn with wide pants and a cocked hat, the jabot spilling down a blouse, punched and appliquéd camouflage on a wool bomber, plays on the trench, rippling outside seams, and an edge-to-edge jacket braided with chain and sweetly decorated with inserted razor blades like apocalyptic Chanel.
And yet this wasn't a try-out in case there's a job vacancy at a big house (Hermès sprang particularly to mind), as everything was pulled through to become something more. Goatskin skirts were cut through with leather ruffles, external seam allowances curved on the arms of a fur-topped bolero, and the mountains called in a sherpa segment of layered capes and looped fabric laid on to look like the pelt of Himalayan sheep.
Even the tricksier effects—an external seamed coat with a superimposed charcoal waistcoat traced in crystals, a scarf morphing into a jacket's hood— seemed effortless and right. Occasionally Takahashi might throw something unsurprising into the mix like leopard print, or like punched leather skulls that eventually cascaded in tiers over a long jacket front.
But if you ever wanted to know how a directional, progressive designer could make eminently wearable and heart-stoppingly desirable clothing that you'll want to keep forever without managing to lose any of his spirited, individualist energy, here's your textbook case.
KARL TREACY
xcoldricex
wabisabi*
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Messages
- 636
- Reaction score
- 2
thanks for the articles strawbutterb and softgrey 
Last edited by a moderator:
http://www.***************/image/0302200511560457.jpghttp://www.***************/image/0302200511575366.jpghttp://www.***************/image/0302200511575869.jpghttp://www.***************/image/0302200511561513.jpghttp://www.***************/image/0302200511592479.jpg
simply divine! from www.elle.com
simply divine! from www.elle.com
birdofparadise
Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2005
- Messages
- 878
- Reaction score
- 7
Great street style on a stick--just add water. Very nice.
xcoldricex
wabisabi*
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Messages
- 636
- Reaction score
- 2
ah looks even better up close. that "hair" looks crazy.
Hanne, i think the eerie look is the point. its the attraction for me at least. but of course it doesn't sit well with everyone.
Hanne, i think the eerie look is the point. its the attraction for me at least. but of course it doesn't sit well with everyone.
"wow, some interesting stuff..can't think of any other word...i like the skulls the most...i wish there were more exploration in that area??
is it just me, or there seems to be a trend in adding fabric details as a relief? it makes me want to see more"
^You are right, this method of adding texture has been popular over the last what 3 or 4 seasons. I'm full...its not so fresh to me, and too much of a trend for me to enjoy seeing a study in placement of this technique. I dont know, this collection doesnt seem great to me.
is it just me, or there seems to be a trend in adding fabric details as a relief? it makes me want to see more"
^You are right, this method of adding texture has been popular over the last what 3 or 4 seasons. I'm full...its not so fresh to me, and too much of a trend for me to enjoy seeing a study in placement of this technique. I dont know, this collection doesnt seem great to me.
Last edited by a moderator:
Fade to Black
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2004
- Messages
- 3,326
- Reaction score
- 1
I think this collection is great...I like how Jun reinvents himself with each collection...first Languid, then But Beautiful and its sequel and now this. I'd like to see pics of the men's pieces of this collection as well. I saw a few men's pieces from But Beautiful II in an Asian magazine and the signature hooded zip-up sweater with the human organs print was really creative...I mean the print was mind blowing, it seemed like an entire world of itself, a city that was located inside the human body. However I don't think it's that wearable, but still a good concept. The other signature item, a vintage looking checkered blazer was pretty cool too, but again hard to pull off. But just judging from the pictures I saw, it seems I have to agree with Faust in that the quality doesn't seem to be top notch.
I think my favorite Undercover collection so far remains the Languid collection (S/S 04)
I think my favorite Undercover collection so far remains the Languid collection (S/S 04)
alex_62683
Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
Wearable toys collection
helena
Swim Upstream
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Messages
- 6,428
- Reaction score
- 5
i like some of these pieces and I like the leggings tucked into the boots worn with the drapey short dresses. I think it could be a strong look going forward. there is something of the Cavalier (as in King Charles) about the shape.
Honey~Blade
Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Messages
- 852
- Reaction score
- 0
Does anyone know how much the Mongolian Jacket will cost?
helena said:
I saw the lookbook a couple of weeks ago - the best outfits are not in this thread. They are these amazing feminine jackets made of masculine suit fabrics - really gorgeous. This collection definitely turned my opinion about Jun 180 degrees.
Also (to Purechris's detriment) looks like the skull scarf will not be produced
.
