US Harper’s Bazaar November 2024 : Kendrick Lamar by Quentin de Briey

I wonder how Vogue's increasingly diminished relevancy will change once Anna is gone (she will be 75 next month). In America, at least, she has become an icon and (for better or worse) is completely tied to the brand, almost like they are the same thing.
I think the brand Vogue will be preserved and Edward may take over but unfortunately, he doesn’t have the charisma, the influence or even the personal story to carry that power and maintain the relevancy.
I don’t think his book, despite the heavy promotional tour, interested people. He is not a larger than life personality and his opinion never shifted the career of anyone.
And we saw it with his Vogue UK. He doesn’t have a distinctive voice either…

IMO for Vogue to be relevant post-Anna, it has to become slightly more exclusive. At a time when the print doesn’t sell anyway, it’s maybe time to go back to models and have celebrities for 3/4 issues.

I actually think that the return of Victoria Secret could help in that aspect as those HF names have again the opportunity to become more mainstream.

Isn't Kendrick a Chanel ambassador? Quite surprising
The grooming is done by Chanel. So they get their credit anyway but considering that he is wearing Chanel in the story, it would have been more impactful to have him in Chanel on the cover.

Celine is very linked with musicians so it kinda work.
 
IMO for Vogue to be relevant post-Anna, it has to become slightly more exclusive. At a time when the print doesn’t sell anyway, it’s maybe time to go back to models and have celebrities for 3/4 issues.
Oh I definitely agree with this. It might not be cool to say it, but the reason so many of these magazines have become dull and lifeless is because they try to be everything to everyone and are therefore flat, boring, and look like everything else out there. They need to take a chance on glamour and elegance. I think Harper's Bazaar France is the closest I've seen to what I'm talking about, but even they are not *that* great. But...I'm middle aged, so maybe it's a completely different world for younger people and I'm just out of touch, who knows.
 
I think sometimes we have to step back and realize it's not just Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, etc. that's having a tough time as magazines... it's ALL magazines across all interest/hobby areas. People can blame Anna for ruining Vogue, Samira ruined Bazaar, etc. but you can't neglect that magazines are just struggling period.
 
Oh I definitely agree with this. It might not be cool to say it, but the reason so many of these magazines have become dull and lifeless is because they try to be everything to everyone and are therefore flat, boring, and look like everything else out there. They need to take a chance on glamour and elegance. I think Harper's Bazaar France is the closest I've seen to what I'm talking about, but even they are not *that* great. But...I'm middle aged, so maybe it's a completely different world for younger people and I'm just out of touch, who knows.
I mean the press is responsible of it own downfall. I think the suits didn’t address the diversity question the right way and then, they tried to open the gates to everybody.
For me at the root of that question was including diverse talents in the narrative of the magazines. It wasn’t so much about the institutions themselves.
Add to that the fact that mainstream magazines have absorbed the indie aesthetic and ditched the glossy glamorous imagery and you have that result. I think change is necessary and in some ways, US Vogue and VP under Alt survived quite well but the whole system was destroyed because of that.

About Bazaar France, tbh, the magazine isn’t that relevant imo. However it serve a real purpose for Bollore. The talents he has at the magazine give him a legitimacy in that lane of media he does not know. And they have enough funds to offer that level of quality. Bollore is much more concern with the controversies regarding his TV empire.

Is Bazaar France a leading voice in fashion media? No. But the name, the talents involved are enough for industry people to notice. But the magazine doesn’t have a strong POV imo and it’s due to the fact that the Franck Durand/Emmanuelle Alt aesthetic has been used and abused for years now.

I think Bazaar Italia under the Art Direction of Marc Ascoli had a distinctive voice. He is gone and so the interest towards the publication too.
I think sometimes we have to step back and realize it's not just Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, etc. that's having a tough time as magazines... it's ALL magazines across all interest/hobby areas. People can blame Anna for ruining Vogue, Samira ruined Bazaar, etc. but you can't neglect that magazines are just struggling period.

Yes magazines are struggling but in a way the emergence of indies publications, the creation of new franchises, the emergence of lifestyle supplements shows that it’s an evolution rather than a real struggle.

Magazines were just too big and too much but when you look at the pivot Anna managed to do to keep Vogue US part of the conversation, you understand that in a multimedia world, the sole voice of a magazine is not enough to be seen as The authority. We had a real demonstration of power this year between The Met Gala and Vogue World. Their YouTube and IG are strong.
They are doing documentaries….
But somehow, the magazine content is weak. I feel like when you have such a large voice on so many medias, it’s maybe more clever to be a little bit more edgy in the publication.

Why the best « collections editorial » was in M le Monde and not on Vogue?
Does having badly retouched portraits by Leibovitz really helps the publication?

So yes, it’s a general issue but some choices don’t make the situation better. I have the same issue with Numero Magazine…
 
I really love the cover shots and how they are composed. Will be looking out for the photographer, finally someone that can shoot a hip hop star and have it looking like fashion yet at the same time still authentic. The ed is good too, maybe the content wasnt for HB but people have evolved too and the HB reader is varied and one that needs to be sought after in todays landscape. This is a win for the magazine even if I would have preferred to see the photos in a publication like Billboard or DAZED or as someone mentioned Rolling Stone.
 

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