US Harper’s Bazaar November 2024 : Kendrick Lamar by Quentin de Briey

I wonder how Vogue's increasingly diminished relevancy will change once Anna is gone (she will be 75 next month). In America, at least, she has become an icon and (for better or worse) is completely tied to the brand, almost like they are the same thing.
I think the brand Vogue will be preserved and Edward may take over but unfortunately, he doesn’t have the charisma, the influence or even the personal story to carry that power and maintain the relevancy.
I don’t think his book, despite the heavy promotional tour, interested people. He is not a larger than life personality and his opinion never shifted the career of anyone.
And we saw it with his Vogue UK. He doesn’t have a distinctive voice either…

IMO for Vogue to be relevant post-Anna, it has to become slightly more exclusive. At a time when the print doesn’t sell anyway, it’s maybe time to go back to models and have celebrities for 3/4 issues.

I actually think that the return of Victoria Secret could help in that aspect as those HF names have again the opportunity to become more mainstream.

Isn't Kendrick a Chanel ambassador? Quite surprising
The grooming is done by Chanel. So they get their credit anyway but considering that he is wearing Chanel in the story, it would have been more impactful to have him in Chanel on the cover.

Celine is very linked with musicians so it kinda work.
 
IMO for Vogue to be relevant post-Anna, it has to become slightly more exclusive. At a time when the print doesn’t sell anyway, it’s maybe time to go back to models and have celebrities for 3/4 issues.
Oh I definitely agree with this. It might not be cool to say it, but the reason so many of these magazines have become dull and lifeless is because they try to be everything to everyone and are therefore flat, boring, and look like everything else out there. They need to take a chance on glamour and elegance. I think Harper's Bazaar France is the closest I've seen to what I'm talking about, but even they are not *that* great. But...I'm middle aged, so maybe it's a completely different world for younger people and I'm just out of touch, who knows.
 
After a certain age, you wonder how relevant your viewpoint is.
 
I think sometimes we have to step back and realize it's not just Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, etc. that's having a tough time as magazines... it's ALL magazines across all interest/hobby areas. People can blame Anna for ruining Vogue, Samira ruined Bazaar, etc. but you can't neglect that magazines are just struggling period.
 
Oh I definitely agree with this. It might not be cool to say it, but the reason so many of these magazines have become dull and lifeless is because they try to be everything to everyone and are therefore flat, boring, and look like everything else out there. They need to take a chance on glamour and elegance. I think Harper's Bazaar France is the closest I've seen to what I'm talking about, but even they are not *that* great. But...I'm middle aged, so maybe it's a completely different world for younger people and I'm just out of touch, who knows.
I mean the press is responsible of it own downfall. I think the suits didn’t address the diversity question the right way and then, they tried to open the gates to everybody.
For me at the root of that question was including diverse talents in the narrative of the magazines. It wasn’t so much about the institutions themselves.
Add to that the fact that mainstream magazines have absorbed the indie aesthetic and ditched the glossy glamorous imagery and you have that result. I think change is necessary and in some ways, US Vogue and VP under Alt survived quite well but the whole system was destroyed because of that.

About Bazaar France, tbh, the magazine isn’t that relevant imo. However it serve a real purpose for Bollore. The talents he has at the magazine give him a legitimacy in that lane of media he does not know. And they have enough funds to offer that level of quality. Bollore is much more concern with the controversies regarding his TV empire.

Is Bazaar France a leading voice in fashion media? No. But the name, the talents involved are enough for industry people to notice. But the magazine doesn’t have a strong POV imo and it’s due to the fact that the Franck Durand/Emmanuelle Alt aesthetic has been used and abused for years now.

I think Bazaar Italia under the Art Direction of Marc Ascoli had a distinctive voice. He is gone and so the interest towards the publication too.
I think sometimes we have to step back and realize it's not just Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, etc. that's having a tough time as magazines... it's ALL magazines across all interest/hobby areas. People can blame Anna for ruining Vogue, Samira ruined Bazaar, etc. but you can't neglect that magazines are just struggling period.

Yes magazines are struggling but in a way the emergence of indies publications, the creation of new franchises, the emergence of lifestyle supplements shows that it’s an evolution rather than a real struggle.

Magazines were just too big and too much but when you look at the pivot Anna managed to do to keep Vogue US part of the conversation, you understand that in a multimedia world, the sole voice of a magazine is not enough to be seen as The authority. We had a real demonstration of power this year between The Met Gala and Vogue World. Their YouTube and IG are strong.
They are doing documentaries….
But somehow, the magazine content is weak. I feel like when you have such a large voice on so many medias, it’s maybe more clever to be a little bit more edgy in the publication.

Why the best « collections editorial » was in M le Monde and not on Vogue?
Does having badly retouched portraits by Leibovitz really helps the publication?

So yes, it’s a general issue but some choices don’t make the situation better. I have the same issue with Numero Magazine…
 
I really love the cover shots and how they are composed. Will be looking out for the photographer, finally someone that can shoot a hip hop star and have it looking like fashion yet at the same time still authentic. The ed is good too, maybe the content wasnt for HB but people have evolved too and the HB reader is varied and one that needs to be sought after in todays landscape. This is a win for the magazine even if I would have preferred to see the photos in a publication like Billboard or DAZED or as someone mentioned Rolling Stone.
 
^Not mine either. Whatsoever. I am genuinely sat here struggling to find one positive critique regarding this cover. Not a fan of the fact Kendrick Lamar is on the cover or the totally lifeless cover shot. Uggggggggh, hate this.
 
I agree Anna, Samria, any of these editors in chief aren't the reason why fashion media is in its current state of decay, just exacerbated it.

we can write dissertations on why media (magazines, newspapers, etc.) don't sell anymore, and indeed there's an interesting plethora of reasons. but really it comes down to something quite simple: the masses don't want to pay to look at content they can access for free on their phones.

For the average person, it's not logical to buy Vogue or Bazaar when most of these photos get uploaded to Instagram for free. That's why only a niche group of fashion enthusiasts or K-pop stans who want their idols to break "magazines cover pre-orders" records buy them.
 
They're trying to be all woke and political but who the f*ck cares? Give us women please. I don't like seeing men on women's magazines or womenswear shows.
 
Did Condé Nast sell them a cancelled GQ story? It might be a stretch, but it’s too random.
 
Interesting…
Who and what is the Bazaar woman in 2024?

Well as Carmel Snow once said Bazaar is for the elegant woman with an elegant mind. Elegance, mind you, is good taste with a dash of daring. Why don’t you….. look up Liz Tilberis’ first issue. The one that starts with Enter the Era of Elagance and read her thoughts on the word elegance and why she thought the word was paramount in the essence of her revamped Bazaar. These great editors knew this type of woman was out there and crafted a magazine around her. These women still exist, sadly Bazaar doesn’t care about them anymore.
 
Well as Carmel Snow once said Bazaar is for the elegant woman with an elegant mind. Elegance, mind you, is good taste with a dash of daring. Why don’t you….. look up Liz Tilberis’ first issue. The one that starts with Enter the Era of Elagance and read her thoughts on the word elegance and why she thought the word was paramount in the essence of her revamped Bazaar. These great editors knew this type of woman was out there and crafted a magazine around her. These women still exist, sadly Bazaar doesn’t care about them anymore.
Im well aware of all of that but my question comes as a reply to the idea that the Bazaar woman doesn’t listen to HipHop.
I personally appreciate eclecticism in taste. So if we link that idea with the concept of the Bazaar woman, I would maybe expect from that woman some kind of discernment and eclecticism in her taste to be able to appreciate many things, including different music genres.
 
Although if someone listens and appreciates a broad range of genres in music, does it mean those women are also automatically interested in whatever clothing or jewellery any type of male performer is wearing when they turn up in a woman's fashion magazine cover shoot?

I could see how that might work for k-pop fans but not for everyone.
 
Although if someone listens and appreciates a broad range of genres in music, does it mean those women are also automatically interested in whatever clothing or jewellery any type of male performer is wearing when they turn up in a woman's fashion magazine cover shoot?

I could see how that might work for k-pop fans but not for everyone.
It’s not the first time that a man front the cover of HB.
I’m not particularly interested in what he is wearing and tbh, beyond the visual aspect, I’m not particularly interested in the clothes when I’m looking at HB. If I want to see the clothes I go to ELLE or M le Monde.

I think those huge glossies (Vogue, HB) should just provide good, inspiring visuals. It’s much more about a mood nowadays as they don’t have that much influence on fashion trends.

But I have to say that I love Kendrick Lamar and I enjoy his relationship with fashion because despite the fact that he is a « Friend of the house » of Chanel, he doesn’t seem like he is one of those chasing a contract or a fashion validation. It’s refreshing.
 
New Wave
Model : Rachel Marx
Photo: Joséphine Löchern
Styling : Vittoria Cerciello
Hair : Joseph Pujalte
Make Up : Giulia Cigarini
Casting : Anita Bitton



HB US Digital
 
I like the return of ladylike dressing in "New Wave" by Joséphine Löchern. However, I am having a hard time understanding the appeal of the model. The close-up shots, especially, are very unappealing. I prefer the prettier model casting for the Sabato De Sarno designer profile story.
 
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Well as Carmel Snow once said Bazaar is for the elegant woman with an elegant mind. Elegance, mind you, is good taste with a dash of daring. Why don’t you….. look up Liz Tilberis’ first issue.
Glenda “Fabulous at Every Age” Bailey killed that woman.
 
My library's digital copy is showing 132 pages. Inside front cover ad is Rianne for Vuitton. In common with various Vogues this month, US HB also has a lengthy Valentino campaign.

Something I appreciate about the editorial rationale for the cover is the absence of braggarty noise about being the "first" to do something.

Aside from the cover story, the one fashion editorial is shown above, which is followed by an interview with Sabato de Sarno.
 

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