US Vogue April 2020 : The 'Beauty Without Borders' Issue by Tyler Mitchell

[Phuel]

What’s insulting is how this BEYOND BORDERS concept is angled (which is also nothing to say of its obscene mediocrity in execution).

As if only now is fashion embracing or appreciating diversity. Puh-leeze.

Adut and Ugbad are not the first black models. Let’s not pretend like they are or that they’re “breaking boundaries.” Has no one heard of Naomi? Beverly Peele? Beverly Johnson? Donyale Luna? Tyra Banks? Katoucha? Kadhija? Oluchi? Sessile? Chanel Iman? Iman? Alek? Mimi Roche? Kiara? Liya? Yasmin? Jourdan? Debra Shaw? Pat Cleveland? Veronica Webb? These are not nobodies...

And is a model from Sweden and France and Brazil and Russia and Germany not diversity, too?

It’s all so exhaustingly disingenuous.

You know how this works. All the MOC that paved the way for the arrogant and entitled OK Boomer generation of Aduk and Nora don’t matter cuz it’s only about hyping themselves as the brave new activists whom broke racial social-political barriers (while being pampered int the lap if luxury and hyped by White insiders). And the boomers that are desperately seeking for these kidz’ approval only further their delusion and the illusion that they are the brave new world with the most stupid and condescending coverlines like this “Beauty Without Borders”— cuz these pampered and extremely privileged kidz are so much like doctors without borders LOL

(Anna is way smarter than this. She's likely signing off to all this while rolling her eyes.)

 

[Lola701]

Tyler is a good photographer but I think he needs to find a way to make his aesthetic standout in US Vogue. That ed is good but it could have been a filler ed in M le Monde. The cover has a vibrancy in the lighting that can suit Vogue...
Vogue has been into this indie-nostalgia vibe for a moment now. It’s very now but if Tyler has to do more than this to stand the test of time.

 

[mikel]

I’m happy for all the girls, and I don’t think it’s a bad cover per se. But it all feels very Teen Vogue. It’s not elevated enough. Imagine the three of them in some glamorous dresses against a luscious green backdrop by Meisel or even Leibovitz. Now that would’ve been something!

 

[Deleted member 141523]

Farneti's model is an illustration. He needs to read the Vogue Italia Archive for once.

^^^^ I forget Luna is dutch. Beautiful models.

 

[cheapthrills]

Are the non Kaia / Adut covers, actual covers? In that they will be on newsstands also? Or what are they?

 

[aracic]

Or what are they?

Digital, not newsstand

 

[Fiona3]

I understand why people are complaining about the models looking sad or depressed. But that is exactly how some of us are feeling at the moment, so in a way it perfectly captures the zeitgeist.

 

[caioherrero]

This will be the worst selling issue of the year, but the corona virus is the one to blame.

 

[Nomar]

So happy to see Liu but whoever styled her shoot needs to go.

 

[badgalcrush]

Half of this line up is irrelevant or not big enough for that cover this looks like a campaign for a charity work

Vogue is giving us this mess meanwhile I was waiting for a Anna Ewers or Luna even Bella Hadid .. but at least we have some models

Adesuwa cover looks lovely

 

[Bertrando3]

Adut and Ugbad are not the first black models. Let’s not pretend like they are or that they’re “breaking boundaries.” Has no one heard of Naomi? Beverly Peele? Beverly Johnson? Donyale Luna? Tyra Banks? Katoucha? Kadhija? Oluchi? Sessile? Chanel Iman? Iman? Alek? Mimi Roche? Kiara? Liya? Yasmin? Jourdan? Debra Shaw? Pat Cleveland? Veronica Webb? These are not nobodies... It’s all so exhaustingly disingenuous.

My very thoughts exactly.

 

[tipi1355]

As if only now is fashion embracing or appreciating diversity. Puh-leeze.

Adut and Ugbad are not the first black models. Let’s not pretend like they are or that they’re “breaking boundaries.” Has no one heard of Naomi? Beverly Peele? Beverly Johnson? Donyale Luna? Tyra Banks? Katoucha? Kadhija? Oluchi? Sessile? Chanel Iman? Iman? Alek? Mimi Roche? Kiara? Liya? Yasmin? Jourdan? Debra Shaw? Pat Cleveland? Veronica Webb? These are not nobodies...

That's still only a pretty small handful of women when you consider all the models who have been looked at successful models throughout time. You named 20 women and very few of them peaked during the same period. Their peaks in the industry also span from the 1960s/70s to the early aughts. I'd hardly call 3-4 successful black models roughly every decade or so "embracing diversity," but to each their own.

It's gonna be a while before the rapid success of any non-white model will be looked at as anything other than boundary-breaking.

 

[JPineapple]

Btw, Kaia got her big 4 covers before her mom...



Source: my own meme archive

 

[aracic]

Btw, Kaia got her big 4 covers before her mom...

No she didn't, Cindy has all four as well.

 

[caioherrero]

No she didn't, Cindy has all four as well.

View attachment 1145661

Not, that Cindy Vogue Itália cover is a supplement

 

[aracic]

Not, that Cindy Vogue Itália cover is a supplement

I think we can all agree that Franca's supplements were much more than just supplements. They're thicker and richer with content than most magazines today, with original editorials, covers and advertising sections inside. I'd still count it as a major achievement for any model who covered her couture (and other) supplements. Back in the 80s, they used to publish these 'supplements' almost every other month! I even remember reading somewhere that Franca herself used to say that Vogue Italia has fourteen issues per year (counting the seasonal couture supplements).

 

[tigerrouge]

To complicate matters even further, was there not a time when Vogue Italia used to produce two main issues in certain months, a few weeks apart? And that's why the spine of some issues shows a date, the month and the year, rather than just listing the month and year alone.

 

[Phuel]

That's still only a pretty small handful of women when you consider all the models who have been looked at successful models throughout time. You named 20 women and very few of them peaked during the same period. Their peaks in the industry also span from the 1960s/70s to the early aughts. I'd hardly call 3-4 successful black models roughly every decade or so "embracing diversity," but to each their own.

It's gonna be a while before the rapid success of any non-white model will be looked at as anything other than boundary-breaking.

This sort of rational is so racist and arrogantly entitled. Besides the famous Black models models that @dior_couture1245 has mentioned, there have been countless Black models working in the industry that may not have been “Supers”, but they’ve definitely been successful in their profession (which BTW, isn't easy for anyone to make a living off of). Let’s not tell it like there have only been a “handful” of Black models working at one time.

Because the industry which has been predominately White, somehow needs to make up for it now by championing diversity— of which, let’s be frank, means a predominantly only Black model and designer endorsement to many? For what purpose does that serve other than affirmative action…??? (Or do some actually mean Black dominance, like South Africa’s Cosmo/Glamour, which only feature Black presence on their covers.) If some want to only support Black presence in the industry, then that’s a personal preference, but don’t mask your discrimination and outright racism by convincing others that this somehow equates “diversity”. Because if we’re to honestly support “diversity” and how MOC reflect their clientele, then there should damn be a lot more Asian and ME models being supported. And there hasn’t been an Asian nor ME Super— like ever.

More importantly, and I know it's nearly impossible in these segregating days, but can’t this industry go back to supporting talent first and foremost???? Cuz how’s this “diversity and inclusivity” working out when it comes to creative talent that will endure…???

 

[Benn98]

Because the industry which has been predominately White, somehow needs to make up for it now by championing diversity— of which, let’s be frank, means a predominantly only Black model and designer endorsement to many? For what purpose does that serve other than affirmative action…??? (Or do some actually mean Black dominance, like South Africa’s Cosmo/Glamour, which only feature Black presence on their covers.) If some want to only support Black presence in the industry, then that’s a personal preference, but don’t mask your discrimination and outright racism by convincing others that this somehow equates “diversity”. Because if we’re to honestly support “diversity” and how MOC reflect their clientele, then there should damn be a lot more Asian and ME models being supported. And there hasn’t been an Asian nor ME Super— like ever.

More importantly, and I know it's nearly impossible in these segregating days, but can’t this industry go back to supporting talent first and foremost???? Cuz how’s this “diversity and inclusivity” working out when it comes to creative talent that will endure…???

Agreed, but let's credit Liu Wen and Angelica Cheung with creating the world's widely recognised Asian model. Will those who watch the Superbowl with barbecued wings and beer know who she is? Nope, but the American Vogue reader and fashion insider will as this is her second cover after numerous edits. One that even in its pitiful state still holds some currency and power, and (I'd like to think) will continue helping her secure big campaigns. It's a small triumph, but one worth noting because they've done it singlehandedly. Nobody else pushed for Asian models on covers and campaigns.

Just to add my two cents on an already saturated debate, I don't think the type of racial diversity being championed in Vogue India (who only feature models of Indian descent), Vogue Taiwan and Vogue China (where you'd be hard-pressed to see any dark-skinned models), and those South African magazines you speak of, but also, all the Continental European Vogues except Ukraine and Russia should not be applauded. I know in some cases there is likely a sensitive context behind their choices, but they're merely replacing one dominant group with another. A sort of flawed mindset that appears to be perfectly fine for 'the other side of TFS' where they consistently rate Vogue India and Taiwan 10 out of 10 each year for their Diversity Report.
As fast as American Vogue is slipping each month, I rather think they (along with British Vogue) are still the standard if you're after unforced (for most part) racial diversity in front and behind the lens.

Quite surprised that this topic still pops up here because a) the cover is based on nationality and not race (I'd personally steer clear of such a cover to begin with as it is divisive in itself to only cherry-pick some countries and not others and use the lame excuse 'but our international editors selected them' don't come for us, but Anna has very clearly been lobotomised so I can't imagine she's thinking straight), b) we are seeing tremendous change in even smaller editions, the type of diversity which extends beyond race, and b) this topic of diversity never seems to pop up in threads for some of the worst offenders.... VP for instance (and don't come with the 'but VP is for the petite bourgeoisie of France' excuse).

But yes, time to get back to actual creativity and talent and not running checklists on races.

 

[tipi1355]

This sort of rational is so racist and arrogantly entitled. Besides the famous Black models models that @dior_couture1245 has mentioned, there have been countless Black models working in the industry that may not have been “Supers”, but they’ve definitely been successful in their profession (which BTW, isn't easy for anyone to make a living off of). Let’s not tell it like there have only been a “handful” of Black models working at one time.

Because the industry which has been predominately White, somehow needs to make up for it now by championing diversity— of which, let’s be frank, means a predominantly only Black model and designer endorsement to many? For what purpose does that serve other than affirmative action…??? (Or do some actually mean Black dominance, like South Africa’s Cosmo/Glamour, which only feature Black presence on their covers.) If some want to only support Black presence in the industry, then that’s a personal preference, but don’t mask your discrimination and outright racism by convincing others that this somehow equates “diversity”. Because if we’re to honestly support “diversity” and how MOC reflect their clientele, then there should damn be a lot more Asian and ME models being supported. And there hasn’t been an Asian nor ME Super— like ever.

More importantly, and I know it's nearly impossible in these segregating days, but can’t this industry go back to supporting talent first and foremost???? Cuz how’s this “diversity and inclusivity” working out when it comes to creative talent that will endure…???

In what world is it racist to state that there have been less models of color to reach high levels of success than white ones? That’s a fact. You even pointed out the lack of an Asian super in this industry. That’s a problem and that is not what it means to embrace diversity. How you got from that statement that I was being discriminatory or racist is beyond anything I could even try to comprehend.