Looking through the details...I admit it is really quite breathtaking. Truly gorgeous and masterful craftsmanship at work here.
However, that still doesn’t negate my previous criticism.
I’m reminded a bit of Lacroix. He, too, played with excess in the most rarefied way...but I feel as though Lacroix pulled it off with greater and rounder skill. Despite how lush and refined this all is from the standpoint of construction, there still remains a sort of 2-dimensionality. Hard exactly to explain? Lacroix knew how to move you through a collection of such richness...after several looks of volume, glitter, lace, flowers and fur...a single, sensual, spectacular gown in one solid shocking color would come down the catwalk. Or after a few passes of pure 18th century pomp, a geometric pop of 60’s mod came out to everyone’s surprise. Additionally, I also feel like here at Valentino you see too much of the make of the clothes...if that makes sense. You see the ruffles, you see the tiers, you see the bows in such a literal way. At Lacroix, it almost seemed as though the clothes were so impossible, so refined, so delicate, you couldn’t even imagine how it was made on this earth...it could have only come from heaven.
I guess, in summary, I am finding this formula at Valentino to be a bit one-note. Even the first day looks in solid colors still play the same notes as the later ones...all the volume and coloring of those passages don’t really provide enough of a real balance or relief or contrast to the excess that follows. Everything is just big.