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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Jan 23, 2019.
Thank you Pierpaolo for saving this awful HC season. I like everything few dresses like the last one. Very nice cast.
Terrible and stuffy. It all looks so heavy and the floral prints here are legitimately curtains. It seems like he has this equation of couture that works itself out to bright colors in gazar and taffeta, extremely exaggerated volumes, a few headdresses for good measure, a little dose of 1960s and *boom* couture collection. Enough already, time to move on. I'd take Chanel over this mess any day of the week!
I still don't get what's so appealing about these huge dresses that he sends out every season - but now with too many prints. Oh well.
Kinda off topic but Naomi looks like Blac Chyna here. Not a good look.
The prints are pretty, and his use of colour is...okay, it's just so much fabric. Any sense of detail and construction mastery gets lost when you cover a girl with ruffle s and sparkles and prints. This is the embodiment of a dessert tray at a hotel restaurant, everything is big, overworked, and cloyingly sweet.
I didn't like all of the floral. I had the same thought about so many of them looking like curtains. Also, the dress on Kaia is ugly.
Disappointed, this collection is so ugly.
This is beginning to look formulaic. It was thrilling the first time he started playing with these volumes, but now it seems a bit cocky.
I liked his first solo Couture show best...there was so much restraint and so much mastery of technique.
After watching the video I feel suffocated. It was too much of everything all the time, no room to breath. With all the fabric and volume, it was quite literally all over the place.
I totally agree with you on this ! The couture collection a couple of seasons before that this and the last one is based off of was gorgeous and nearly perfect. He's been trying to recreate that magic and you just can't. Hopefully he moves on.
There’s a common point between this and Chanel. It’s very aspirational.
Chanel has that very down to earth approach, you see the women at the shows, they are rich, powerful...You know who wears the clothes.
This is the opposite because you can only imagine. Those clothes are not practical, relatable and unless it’s worn by celebrities or Sheikha Mozah, we don’t see those clothes But we know those people also lives a fabulous life.
I like this collection but this makes me wonder what makes Couture modern. I don’t find those clothes modern (I didn’t when he started the Extravaganza stuff but it felt new) because the idea of a ball gown with a lot of fabrics is not modern but at the same time, it feels fresh and light.
I like how he mainly worked with two fabrics: Chiffon and taffetas. Chiffon is Mr Valentino’s favorite fabric and taffetas is quite tricky but he is a master at it now.
This couture season is not very challenging. Designers are pretty much doing stuff similar to their latest collections.
I cannot help to think that the fact that it’s selling well has an influence in their work lately.
Pierpaolo is very inconsistent as a designer I have to say. He struggle to translate the spirit of his Couture in all the RTW.
Nevertheless, the cast was exceptional! He makes clothes for women when Maria Grazia dresses dull girls.
this is amazing. i love it, i think even those florals will grow on me
The make up is beautiful. I'm not as moved by the collection this time because as others have said, it feels a bit too formulaic.
It's time to move on and challenge himself and I'm really confident that he could do something different and amazing.
Still one of the best of the week though. Galliano at Margiela and this are the highlights for me.
Well... I feel sorry for some of the girls cause they were drowning in ruffels or fabric. Not good at all.
The Models really need to learn how to walk in these kinds of dresses. This is Couture! Lift it! Miss J where are you?
I remember the colour palette from his first solo collection was exquisite...has Pier-Paolo gone daltonic all of a sudden?? Because there is clash of the most nauseous tones only a 70s deco book can deliver!
Then the floral print part...was it some sort of challenge to create the ugliest dress ever?? If that´s the case, I have a winner here:
That nightmare looks like it was conceived by a mid-80s camp upholstery brand specialized in sofa covers.
Looking through the details...I admit it is really quite breathtaking. Truly gorgeous and masterful craftsmanship at work here.
However, that still doesn’t negate my previous criticism.
I’m reminded a bit of Lacroix. He, too, played with excess in the most rarefied way...but I feel as though Lacroix pulled it off with greater and rounder skill. Despite how lush and refined this all is from the standpoint of construction, there still remains a sort of 2-dimensionality. Hard exactly to explain? Lacroix knew how to move you through a collection of such richness...after several looks of volume, glitter, lace, flowers and fur...a single, sensual, spectacular gown in one solid shocking color would come down the catwalk. Or after a few passes of pure 18th century pomp, a geometric pop of 60’s mod came out to everyone’s surprise. Additionally, I also feel like here at Valentino you see too much of the make of the clothes...if that makes sense. You see the ruffles, you see the tiers, you see the bows in such a literal way. At Lacroix, it almost seemed as though the clothes were so impossible, so refined, so delicate, you couldn’t even imagine how it was made on this earth...it could have only come from heaven.
I guess, in summary, I am finding this formula at Valentino to be a bit one-note. Even the first day looks in solid colors still play the same notes as the later ones...all the volume and coloring of those passages don’t really provide enough of a real balance or relief or contrast to the excess that follows. Everything is just big.
Sorry if this is off topic, but does anyone know where I can find the model credits for this show, by look? Sometimes vogue.com credits them, but I’m not seeing any right now.
The general criticism here is spot on and exactly what went through my mind when watching the show. The only dress I really like is Liya's, and that's quite disappointing.