Special Report: Fashion Review
Versace Opens a Door to a Feisty Future
By SUZY MENKES
Published: February 26, 2010
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Antonio Calanni/Associated Press
Versace women’s collection in Milan on Friday.
It was as though Donatella Versace had re-visited everything that the brand stands for — blasts of bright color, leather given a sensual spin and evening dresses opening windows to bare flesh.
This Viva Versace! show in Milan’s brief fashion season started with a surprise: long coats that were worn over ulra-short shiny skirts, and elongated dresses with a zipper undone in order for one leg to stride. Another opening-up trick was to cut away the back, leaving it entirely naked. Whether it was the rear view of a violet fur vest or a cut-away evening gown, it was like reading a memory stick of the infamous Versace safety-pin dress just holding decency together.
“Graphic, asymmetric, cut-out shapes and very techno fabrics,” said Ms. Versace, referring to mirrored leather treated with the metallic effect of chrome on a motorbike. There were also motocross pants worn with a tailored jacket to suggest biker chic.
The building blocks of the collection were leather and zippers, with minor innovations including jeans inset with leather and a zipper curling around a skirt. Color blocking was also a powerful theme, developed even as a knit giving an apron effect at the front.
The sheer energy of the collection made it seem purposeful. It was as though the arrival of the young British designer Christopher Kane at Versus, the satellite Versace line, had allowed Ms. Versace herself to see the brand as it was in the 1980’s from a different perspective. The result was a strong, clear message, although its reality was more about Gianni Versace’s heritage taken forward than a visionary idea of fashion’s future.
Very telling indeed.
Does someone have one randomly? Or knows where I could find one?
