i tip my hat to full-fledged unapologetic fashion. as many have noted, this stuff rises to the level to make gianni versace himself proud. and it's about time. for so long, donatella has let the menswear at the house of versace lose sight of the very thing that made it so iconoclastic in the first place. and in a fashion environment that yields rainbow denim at bottega, beaded pastels at prada, madagascar florals at burberry, and every shade of python at jil sander, i have to give it to her: she's nailed quite the colorful moment in menswear....
but, i have to question the larger timing of this collection: if it's soley a marketing strategy, it's pure genius: we have lady gaga extol vintage versace with her "edge of glory" video in the same week that we learn of a sparkling new collaboration with h+m: so if this collection is meant as part of that campaign, it's glorious timing (what better way to educate an entire new generation of gay boys about the power of versace!
however, this collection hews so close to the original versace that it looks nearly archival. and literal. and there's nothing wrong with that except that the world that gianni versace lived in and designed for no longer exists. when gianni originally dressed his men in those buckled pants and gilded sandals, we gobbled the stuff up. people pranced around south beach in it. seriously. like, not as a costume. like, they wore it seriously! and didn't stand out!!
but now, this looks out of step with the way that modern men choose to display their wealth, their fashion sense, nor their identities anymore. sure, the underwear will sell, and probably some of those bags and shoes, and i have my eye on a couple of those bracelets, but seriously, most of this stuff looks like it belongs in a museum exhibition. this collection needs to take the elements of this collection that recalled so vividly the glory days of gianni and synthesize them for the modern world (something they DID SO WELL in the womenswear recently). until then, perhaps they should tug anna's ear for a costume institute retrospective.
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