Vogue's Top 10 F/W 16 Collections (And Yours)

I knew Vogue would focus more on what's cool rather than substantial design, creative overflow, and quality construction! SMH!!

Anyways, here are my top ten:

Marni
Prada
Marc Jacobs
Louis Vuitton
Sacai
Bottega Veneta
Maison Martin Margiela
Dries Van Noten
Haider Ackermann
Christopher Kane
 
1. Proenza Schouler
2. Loewe
3. Nina Ricci
4. Jil Sander
5. Yohji Yamamoto
6. Dries Van Noten
7. Miu Miu
8. Prada
9. Louis Vuitton
10. Delpozo / Marni
 
Dries Van Noten
Marni
Haider Hackerman
Marc Jacobs
Margiela
Celine (Just for the back of the coats)
 
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I don’t at all feel this was the worst season.

I get the impression there definitely is a lot of hype for the mediocre labels that are defining the times and mood we’re in, in this banal SM-ravaged age. Unfortunately for those of us not buying into such hype, it does taint the overall tone of the season, and overwhelms our perception of a dismal showing. overall. But, if you weed through the muck— and there is so much muck LOL I think there’s actually quite a lot to be optimistic about— if you take into account the current climate of high fashion: assaulted by big conglomerate demands of several collections a year; hype of mediocrities as the next big things; barrage of bland teen and SM influences which only dumbs down the industry; and the jaded and fickle fast-attitudes of so many fashion fans that demand “groundbreaking” (God, I hate that word) designs every season, rather than let a designer evolve at their own pace. And despite all this, I can easily conjure up a top ten:

1. AF Vandevorst
2. Maison Margiela
3. Sacai
4. Yohji Yamamoto
5. Thom Browne
6. Veronique Branquinho
7. Calvin Klein
8. Louis Vuitton
9. Rick Owens
10. Gucci

I don’t see gloom— there’s still much excitement to be had. It’s just unfortunate that the lessers have dominance over the greats at this point in the industry— and that goes not just for designers, but models and publications as well.
 
^ As usual, I'm 100% aligned with your pragmatic and thoroughly sensible POV Phuel! I actually think it's also easier to enjoy the collections once the whole circus of FW is over in this age!

As I distance myself from F/W 2016 (as I did with S/S 2016) by time, I find more things to enjoy here and there then amidst the madness/expectation/disappointment of the Fashion Week Formula 1!
 
Loewe, Prada and Marni made a great impression on me. Otherwise I wasn't really interested.
 
In no particular order :

Haider Ackermann
Loewe
Proenza Schouler
Narciso Rodriguez
Louis Vuitton
Vionnet
Christian Dior
Nina Ricci
Sies Marjan
Valentino
 
lol rodarte n.1? same old mcqueen? bye

anyway, for me

prada
louis vuitton
thom browne
dries van noten
undercover
antonio marras
comme des garcons
simone rocha

that's not even 10 :lol:
 
i have to say that i loved Prada menswear! womenswear didnt impress me that much tbh…

other than that i liked:

Dior Homme
Cerruti1881
Paul Smith Mens
Marni Mens+Womens

3.1 Philip Lim
Louis Vuitton
Yohji Yamamoto
Rick Owens
Sonia Rykiel
Paco Rabanne
Chalayan
 
^ As usual, I'm 100% aligned with your pragmatic and thoroughly sensible POV Phuel! I actually think it's also easier to enjoy the collections once the whole circus of FW is over in this age!

As I distance myself from F/W 2016 (as I did with S/S 2016) by time, I find more things to enjoy here and there then amidst the madness/expectation/disappointment of the Fashion Week Formula 1!

Oh absolutely: The supposedly new, cool kids are getting all the attention for their mediocrity. But the veterans and the ones that are just plugging away at their own pace are the genuine talents for me— and they’ll be there long after the hype is gone for the cool kids.

In this day of instant-gratification, everyone sees every show they want to see in real time— followed by the complete collections online as well. We’re so spoiled— and easily fatigued even when we’re looking/watching all the shows in the comfort of our own home— I don’t blame anyone actually at the shows looking so gloomy and bored (especially now with the theatrics of Galliano, Gaultier, McQueen and the likes no longer around). It’s like having access to every designer piece you want at your fingertips rather than have to work for it, or hunt for it. So easy to be dismissive of even the good stuff this way.

There’s going to come a time when designers will start to pull back as a statement, and even bring back the eventful spectacles of Gaultier and McQueen, and then maybe, we’ll start to enjoy high fashion again.
 
PARIS
Givenchy
Nina Ricci
Sonia Rykiel
Valentino
Loewe

MILAN
Prada
Francesco Scognamiglio
Alberta Ferretti

NEW YORK
Proenza Schouler
Rodarte
 
My faves in no particular order:
Yohji Yamamoto
Sonia Rykiel
Delpozo
Marc Jacobs
Dries van Noten
Junya Watanabe
Haider Ackermann
Vera Wang
Ann Demeulemeester
Nina Ricci
 
Man. That entire list as a whole is a joke and questions their credibility.

My faves, in no particular order:

Prada
Gucci
Sacai
Tod's
Costume National
Proenza Schouler
3.1 Phillip Lim
Mulberry
Sophie Theallet
DKNY
Tome
 
In no particular order:

Proenza Schouler
Calvin Klein
Jil Sander
Prada
Paco Rabanne
Sacai
Loewe
 
It's utterly amazing to me that Dries isn't on this list, but Balenciaga is.
 
^^^ He’s the most hyped saviour of high fashion at the moment, and Vogue needs Balenciaga’s advertising dollars, while Dries doesn’t advertise at all. Pretty transparent why Balenciaga's on their list, no…?

(As a designer, Dries is in another stratosphere than Demna. A Great and his Lesser and all that. But frankly, Demna's Balenciaga debut isn’t all bad— not to me anyways. I may not think much of his Vetements, nor am I impressed with his very limited design talent, but I still would like to be fair since dismissing him completely would be as “fair” as the brand of nepotism and bias that’s so fully engulfed high fashion nowadays.

Whereas, as much as I like Dries, his current offering just wasn’t nearly as rich and distinctive as I’ve come to expect from him: I mean, it’s nice… but nice in that same old, same old safe and predictable sort of way that’s just not fresh at all. I think Demna’s Balenciaga was at least… fresh.)
 
I definitely thought Dries was fresh and exciting ... it was viewed as a top collection by many fashion insiders as well (such as at BOF's breakfast roundtable after fashion month). I am of the Emperor's New Clothes school of thought wrt the new Balenciaga ... can't get on board with it at all.

This list just leaves me shaking my head, for the most part. Marc deserves to be on it, but most of the rest ...
 

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