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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Oct 2, 2020.
You know what, I'm disappointed. I thought if no one else, then Yohji would show something emotionally draining, something soaked up in the current situation. This is just another run-of-the-mill collection for him, but I want to see the artist create something extraordinary, something that will speak about the times for decades. After all, what can give more hope than misery materialized as absolute beauty?
It´s funny, because seeing this collection I can imagine a story:
A bunch of prisoner women detained in a dark prison. The first ones try to escape by knotting sheets together to form a rope. At the same time, a second group of women are walking inside their cells, feeling restrained because of their inmate uniforms.
And a third group of women have reached the barb-wire around the prison. Some of them are trapped by the barb-wire, with all their clothes being tattered in the process; while others managed to escape through the forest, with all their clothes being tangled with branches and leaves.
But then I see the clothes from a design perspective...and I am not attracted to them at all!
Not his best work but that last look is absolutely divine. What a work of art.
Even when it's not Yohji's best it's still light years above what anyone else is putting out. True master.
Like Picasso, best seen at a distance.
Really felt this show and how wild he went, I love the way the copper wiring complements the dark garments. The first few dresses reminded me so much of his S/S 98 collection which I adore (I made a thread on it a few years ago if anyone's curious). My big problem would be the tailored pieces which feel like an afterthought pressed between such powerful statement looks. At 23 looks it's his shortest show, I believe, but it has enough to make it memorable.
The venue was just amazing, with the chandeliers and wood flooring, it felt like the angry mob got inside the mansion just to tarnish the owner's clothes and wear them mockingly, ridiculing their excess. Very Viridiana by Buñuel.
The cast I also liked, I prefer the unknown models he chooses over some of the stars people go crazy over. Their classic look upsets his aesthetic of decay.
Also...Happy birthday Yohji-san! I hope he's getting some much needed rest.
for yohji, each garment is a postponed crime.
at least it used to be.
does he still retain such intensity?
what he wanted to do, what he had to do, what he didn't mean to do, etc..... there should be various things in one collection. and I see his honesty in the tailored midsection. the pieces are not ornamented especially, but they are more beautiful than any ornaments.
of course the last group looks really great. my brain thinks it leaves nothing to be desired. but somehow it doesn't touch my viscera directly.
does the venue still always demand spectacular performances?
here a designer is not one that designs. it is one that is made to design. a vaudevillian overworked by dreams.
he can offer to the fashion future something simple and serene in his particular way that is not immobile, sleepy, nor reconciling. even though it may not be easy.
at least, to revive and insert the lost aesthetics, like the subtlety of the first track on B-side of the vinyl album, seems like his job today. to redeem the defeated.
sarah krepp for reference
love those final few looks especially