Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2012

Posen, one of the most underrated designers... this collection is superb and magnificent
 
Gowns are stunning in the first set of pics but the model looks constipated in every single shot!...
 
Thumbs up!!! Some truly stunning pieces and I hope to see several of these garments crop up in editorials and on the red carpet. Love the vintageness and old Hollywood glamor-ness in the collection. I suspect that if I heard in advance that a designer was putting out this type of collection, I would have rolled my eyes (not because I do not like the theme but because it has been done to death) but I gotta say that I am feeling this.

Zac is still OTT but it seems like he has matured in recent seasons, his eye has become more refined and his collections are more disciplined and better edited. I have always recognized and appreciated his talent but I also recognized his scatteredness so it is good to see him progress, I don't think that he has totally conquered his scatteredness, and I don't think that he has to, but I do think that it is under controlled to the point where it is not distracting. In fact he may be straying too much in the other direction with his proclivity for the mermaid silhouette.

A couple of nitpicks, I certainly don't think that there is an overall execution problem but we live in a HQ world and some minor flaws in seamwork are evident, or more aptly it is just not smooth. Secondly I stand by loving the clothes and the vintage feel but it does kinda look like outtakes from a period movie, but that is also due to the styling which I like. Thirdly I think that he needs to conjure up a muse who is not 5'10" and a size 0 and design a few more items (especially evening wear) targeted at her type.

Re Dior, I don't know if he is auditioning for the gig but I do see the Dior-esqueness in the clothes. I kinda like it because when Galliano took on the Dior archives he went in a very girly direction and I like this more mature and urbane approach.
 
by Emily Holt​

For many of the big American designers, there’s always the chance that when they go out on the street, they will see women wearing their clothes. As someone who specializes in serious evening dresses, this probably doesn’t happen too often to Zac Posen unless he’s on a red carpet which, truth be told, he frequently is.

Nevertheless, it’s understandable why he might be especially excited by trunk shows. “In two minutes, women were buying five gowns just off the bat,” says Posen, who lately has been making the rounds at Neiman Marcus. “It’s really gratifying to see the pieces come to life.”

This real-world experience seems to be making a positive influence on Posen’s designs. Starting with last season, he’s injected a bit more accessibility into his fanciful creations. His dresses for pre-fall were the sort of pieces real women want when they have an occasion to look super glamorous, super sophisticated, and super shapely. A dress, like the long-sleeved one in dove-gray silk, doesn’t need more than the cluster of crystals on each shoulder to be opulent. In fact, more embellishment would only take away from the sensual drape of the fabric. Or consider the metallic embroidered dress, a voluminous cocoon that was thoroughly regal on its own.

With nipped waists and sharp shoulders, Posen’s skirt-suits and day dresses recalled that Old Hollywood high society aesthetic that he does best. The strapless crimson evening gown with dramatic folds suggested his penchant for theatrics—and, if you plan on going anywhere in it, the need for a creative and roomy mode of transport—but what would a Zac Posen collection be without a little fantasy?
-vogue​
 

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