18?? - 19?? Madame Babani

[DosViolines]

Babani lamé flapper dress, c.1925

Madame Babani opened her Paris shop in 1919. She carried decorative items and imported textiles from the Orient as well as designs from Liberty of London and Mariano Fortuny. The influence of Fortuny can be seen in many of her creations.

Babani's work often exhibits that mix of invention and historical borrowing that constitutes the life of any art form. Her palette was brighter than that of Fortuny. She used strong colors, like gold, that jumped out from the background.

In her color palette, she was more au courant with the new Art Deco style than was Fortuny. Even though the color in this dress has darkened and softened with age, it is still an exemplar of the exotic hues with strong contrast favored by Babani.

The simple shift dress features front and back panels of purple satin brocaded with a flame pattern of metallic gold. The side panels and hem border are gold lamé. The panels are joined together with decorative, hand-embroidered, blue blanket stitching.

The label reads "Babani/98 be Haussmann/Paris"

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Babani Antique Rose Pink Silk Velvet Evening Coat
French, circa 1925
The cardigan coat flared at back, gold and silver metallic Beauvais embroidery in a pattern evoking the Orient bordering all edges, exaggerated hanging sleeve, lined in deeper pink silk, labeled: Babani/98 Bd. Housemann/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Babani Champagne Velvet Embroidered Coat
Italian, 1920s
Metallic silver thread medallion block motif and leaf trim around edges and along side seams, creme silk crepe lining, labeled: Babani/98 Bd Haussmann/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1925, by Babani.

beverleybirks.com

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1925, attributed to Babani.

beverleybirks.com

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1926, by Babani.

beverleybirks.com

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1926, attributed to Babani.

beverleybirks.com

 

[DosViolines]

An important and extraordinary work of art circa 1925 by Madame Babani, a contemporary of both Mariano Fortuny and Maria Gallenga. Babani was most known for her embroidered Asian influenced themes and designs which are prominently featured in this ensemble. It is quite rare to come across a Babani embroidered textile of this magnitude and as a matching ensemble. The elaborate rare embroidery of this artist is most reflected in these pieces and for that reason makes them important pieces for collectors or museums. They are also very wearable and make a unique and entrance making evening ensemble. Both pieces are great examples of Japonism in this circa 1925 2-piece work of art.

As a disciple of Fortuny, Madame Babani maintained a prominent Paris shop in the 1920's. Her garments have been compared to Fortuny's as she too designed tunics, jackets dresses, etc. What differentiated her from Fortuny is that she utilized brighter embroidered fabrics and favored the Japanese influence. This is prominently and visibly displayed in this extraordinary Babani embroidered dress and matching coat.

1920's chemise style dress fashioned of turquoise, purple and silver lame in a Japanese inspired floral motif hand embroidered with multi-colored silk bouquets. The closures consist of burnished silver tassels. Includes matching belt which can be worn at the waist in the 1920's fashion of the period or not.

This dress was exhibited in The Shapes of Fashion Exhibition sponsored by The Fashion Foundation of Japan 1993.

It's matching full length hand embroidered coat is spectacular! Fashioned in identical fabric to that of the dress. Loose swing style coat with standup collar and slightly wide sleeves. Coat is also slightly padded for warmth.

marilynglass.com

 

[DosViolines]

Rare 1915 Babani of Paris jacquard damask silk "cocoon" evening coat. During that same period a cocoon shape dolman sleeve coat similar in design was designed by Paul Poiret on page 428 in the book Fashion by the Kyoto Art Museum.

Babani's signature exotic Asian style influence and decorative passementrie embroidery, clearly displayed in geometric sections. Coat fashioned of rich deep royal purple damask silk in subtle paisley patterns and floral swags. Side fastening with button and loop closure adorned with a magnificent large handmade flower.

Further, there are 3-dimensional handmade rosettes with purple centers adorned throughout the entire coat on interior edges as well as sleeves. They encircle neckline down front closure and around hemline as well as interior of sleeves. The rosettes are showcased by blush pink silk charmeuse lining.

Babani and Gallenga were considered contemporaries of Mariano Fortuny. Each artist displayed their unique talents with their own distinctive signatures during this period. Babani was heavily influenced by Fortuny and Liberty of London.

marilynglass.com

 

[DosViolines]

"Ambre de Delhi," a DEPINOIX perfume bottle for Babani, circa 1920, in clear glass, with enamel and gilt decoration.
ragoarts.com

 

[Street_a_Licious]

wow! i love it!

 

[Hanne]

Amazing! I might have to add her as a search on ebay.. you never know..

 

[DosViolines]

Babani metallic brocaded chiffon evening jacket, 1920s

This exquisite Babani evening jacket has the same classic T shape, borrowed from historical ethnic clothing, found in the stenciled velvet jacket by Fortuny. Babani's use of beaded borders to weight the delicate chiffon is another Fortuny technique. Babani's work often exhibits that mix of invention and historical borrowing that constitutes the life of any art form.

The intricate design of the jacket has an exotic, Eastern flavor often found in early Deco art.

The jacket is fashioned from pale gray silk chiffon that is printed with a watery blue pattern and brocaded with metallic gold blossoms. The sinuous motif has that slightly exotic quality characteristic of Babani's designs.

The edges are weighted with faceted bronze metal beads. The Babani label is strategically placed on the back of one of the blossoms so it will not show through the sheer fabric. The label reads "Babani/ 98 Bd Haussmann/Paris."

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

An early Babani orientalist gold brocaded evening jacket, circa 1912, labelled "V.Babani 98 Bd Haussmann Paris", cut Persian style lower at the back, with angled cross-over panels to the front which prestud fasten at the waist, slashed sleeves, lined in pale green silk and edged in green and wine striped silk

kerrytaylorauctions.com