1970s-1990s Claude Montana

[blueorchid]

US Vogue December 1986
"Montana's Modern Edge"
Photographer: Guy Bourdin
Model: Lenita Okderfaldt
Hair: Christophe Carita
Makeup: Jose-Luis



Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[alwaysademo]

US Vogue December 1986
"Montana's Modern Edge"
Photographer: Guy Bourdin
Model: Lenita Okderfaldt
Hair: Christophe Carita
Makeup: Jose-Luis



Vogue Archive via justaguy

classic.

 

[alwaysademo]

Vanity Fair September 1996


source | vanityfair via justaguy

I really hate this article. It paints a picture that was detrimental to his legacy.

 

[blueorchid]

I really hate this article. It paints a picture that was detrimental to his legacy.

interesting, it’s such a fascinating article. I’m not sure about his legacy… like if he didn’t want his legacy ruined, maybe he should have acted differently in life? Everything in that article is so shady!!!

He’s always had such a sinister energy to me, but I do love his designs. I have one of those Fashion Now DVD sets about designers and his segment on the 80s disc (I think) is so bizarre. Iirc, they film him backstage having a tantrum because he can’t find the guy who was ironing clothes… but it turned out he was just in the bathroom. 😬

 

[alwaysademo]

interesting, it’s such a fascinating article. I’m not sure about his legacy… like if he didn’t want his legacy ruined, maybe he should have acted differently in life? Everything in that article is so shady!!!

He’s always had such a sinister energy to me, but I do love his designs. I have one of those Fashion Now DVD sets about designers and his segment on the 80s disc (I think) is so bizarre. Iirc, they film him backstage having a tantrum because he can’t find the guy who was ironing clothes… but it turned out he was just in the bathroom. 😬

That last part is hilarious.
I think though that many French creatives in the 80's were quite misunderstood, or unfairly assessed at the time. Bourdin and Montana are prime examples. It's hard to go into deep into without ruffling some feathers though so I won't... but within the industry I think Montana's legacy is unquestionable.

 

[blueorchid]

That last part is hilarious.
I think though that many French creatives in the 80's were quite misunderstood, or unfairly assessed at the time. Bourdin and Montana are prime examples. It's hard to go into deep into without ruffling some feathers though so I won't... but within the industry I think Montana's legacy is unquestionable.

Hmm, why do you think they were misunderstood? I see what you mean, though.

I think legacies are tricky, in some ways you have to have the ability to mythologize yourself while you’re still around (like Richard Avedon) or someone who’ll do it for you while you’re still alive (Pierre Berge for YSL) or after you’re dead (June Newton for Helmut). In the case of photographers, if you don’t have that you’ll end up with a spotty legacy like Bob Richardson or Bill King. I think fashion is so bad about remembering the past, because it’s so ephemeral!

I do think in the case of Claude Montana, it seems like he really went a step too far… when all types of poor behavior is tolerated in the fashion industry? But he’s shunned?

Maybe instead of another YSL or Lagerfeld biography, some journalist needs to write one about him. There couldn’t be a lack of material!!

 

[alwaysademo]

Hmm, why do you think they were misunderstood? I see what you mean, though.

I think legacies are tricky, in some ways you have to have the ability to mythologize yourself while you’re still around (like Richard Avedon) or someone who’ll do it for you while you’re still alive (Pierre Berge for YSL) or after you’re dead (June Newton for Helmut). In the case of photographers, if you don’t have that you’ll end up with a spotty legacy like Bob Richardson or Bill King. I think fashion is so bad about remembering the past, because it’s so ephemeral!

I do think in the case of Claude Montana, it seems like he really went a step too far… when all types of poor behavior is tolerated in the fashion industry? But he’s shunned?

From my impression and from what I read from his models (Danielle Luquet, Yasmeen and a few more) I gather that his ways to achieve his vision of perfection were verging on maniac or the mot du jour, abusive, or so it seemed to them. By the early 90's especially post-Lanvin most people were pretty fed up with him because of his difficult personality and maybe at that point his inflated ego. And what came about with Wallis must have put the final nail in his career's coffin.
He did give off a sinister energy. It's evident he was extreme, like many other artists, same with Guy Bourdin. But the thing is they're not just fashion professionals like many of their peers, there were a few who really were artists. Their chosen medium was fashion but they made art. People saw what they did and became in turn obsessed with making up a lot of stories based off their fantasies, to paint a picture of their personalities, it happens all the time. What's almost always left out though from these sensationalized stories is the reason he was great: how he was against the grain and, for example only agreed to take on Lanvin for the couture (I think it says a lot in terms of his integrity and commitment to creativity) Artists are a full package, you take the good and the bad. It's not separable for them... After Guy's death, a bunch of his models came out to talk about how he was always respectful, and never was anything like the gossip going around at the time, which said he was sadistic. I guess he was just too strange for the average fashion person back then. This is purely my take of course.

Right on with the self-mythologizing practice part. Back then I assume it was almost a prerequisite, they definitely understood the value of the backstory. Veruschka did it best amongst the models (kudos to your avatar but I loved Romy Schneider too ) Avedon I read somewhere was a genius because he was almost his own wife: he did and promoted his own archive to perfection, whereas 99% needed someone to do it for them.

Maybe instead of another YSL or Lagerfeld biography, some journalist needs to write one about him. There couldn’t be a lack of material!!

I'd be first in line to buy that book!