Claude Montana, Fashion Radical, Resurfaces
     September 26, 2012  3:01 pm
       
                   
		
	 It’s  been nearly two decades since the fashion world has caught a glimpse of  Claude Montana. But the reclusive designer showed up and lingered last  night at Didier Ludot’s cocktail party in the Palais Royal, where the  vintage guru is now displaying his private stash of Montana pieces. The  idea to showcase Montana came naturally, Ludot noted. “He lives in the  neighborhood so I see him every day, and it occurred to me that it would  be an interesting switch from what I usually show—the Dior, Balenciaga,  and Schiaparelli.” Montana’s recasting of sporty pieces in hyper-luxury  materials was revolutionary at the time, he added, recalling a purple  mink tracksuit from one show. Among Ludot’s treasures: a one-off  absinthe and mustard-colored mink coat Montana designed for his late  wife Wallis, a be-gloved and be-feathered black bodysuit, and a short,  Lesage-embroidered couture dress from his controversial stint at Lanvin  in the early nineties, a piece that Ludot scored only last Friday.
Montana,  who recently published a retrospective of his career, recalled the  agony of designing that couture dress: “The studio director didn’t  understand what I wanted, so there was lots of back and forth,” he said.  “There are so many memories in these windows, it’s touching.” Ludot  concluded, “I think of Montana’s place in fashion as a bit like what  Hervé Van der Straeten is to design now—extremely refined but also  modern.” As to potential Montana heirs among fashion’s current crop,  Ludot said, “I’m keeping an eye on Alexandre Vauthier and Maxime Simoens  because they have the sensibility and they can do couture. And I saw  something by Gareth Pugh the other day and I thought, ‘That could have  been Montana.’ “ 
—Tina Isaac