1970s-1990s The Japanese Avant-garde

[fashion.fashoff]

comme des garcons a/w 1986 sweater

pic by me

 

[fashion.fashoff]

cdg skirt a/w 02

issey miyake 90s patchwork jacket

pix by me

 

[fashion.fashoff]

cdg homme plus a/w 2004 blazer...boiled wool w/nylon filament

pix by me

 

[user500]

fashion.fashoff, your collection of vintage clothes is awesome!
i would like to own that last jacket so much...

 

[gius]

me too
beautiful materials..

i dont think ive seen a wool fabric like that before..
both the pink and grey are curly?



i think i saw you wear the skirt once as a top
it's a knit with chiffon?
so interesting!

 

[fashion.fashoff]

^the pink and greys are curly.

the skirt is a wool/nylon knit and polyester chiffon.

 

[user500]

comme des garcons. aw 99 (?) - probably. Btw if someone has runway pictures please post. the left is cdg. i'm not sure if the right outfit, too.





comme des garcons




comme des garcons aw 01 (?)



tao




tao from the same season




junya watanabe - i don't know which collection

source: umjork.exblog.jp

 

[user500]

above all comme des garcons



i think it is junya watanabe

source: umjork.exblog.jp

 

[gius]

love these ^^ thanks user

i've seen this before
http://medium.imageload.net/ihe/200903-percent-2f11-percent-2f97-percent-2fd0135097-15273221.jpg
can't find which collection it is..


you posted TAO
didn't she come out in 2006?

 

[fashion.fashoff]

user500, the second group of pieces in post 487 and the first group in 488 are a/w 02

the one gius posted about (the red & black one w/white cutouts) looks like it might be s/s 92

 

[gius]

white cut-outs? sounds nice..

 

[fashion.fashoff]

here are examples of the s/s 92 cut-out designs. these are made of paper; the cutouts in user's picture look like fabric, but i still think it looks like the same collection. (the paper dresses were probably one of a kind handmade objects for the runway, whereas the stuff sold in stores would have been similar designs but of fabric).

Dresses made of paper were worn in Japan during the Kamakura period (1192-1333), and during the Edo period (1603-1867( expensive paper dresses were considered extremely stylish.

This paper dress would probably fit nicely into Japanese tradition. Japanese stencil paper designers created the cut pattern known as goshoguruma and momiji. Kawakubo thought that this cut pattern, used during production, looked lilke lace, but thought it a shame that after its use as a stencil the pattern never came out in the open. The use of paper as a material for a dress, and the idea of using the cutout pattern itself as the main feature of the dress demonstrate Kawakubo's original point of view where fabrics are concerned.

from the book "fashion" (the kyoto costume institute collection)

this is the one user posted earlier, notice the white cotton (?) cutouts on the sleeves.

 

[user500]

gius, yes it does not perfectly fit into the topic of the thread. half of it is from after 2000. i didn't find a better place to post...

the tao is from one of her latest collections.

the pic gius posted is from f/w 2001, i think. not sure of course.
fashion.fashoff, i am not sure if this sweater has cut outs. it looks more like a black and white wool sweater to me. the picture is a bit small, though.



underwear fabrics like satin and lace were used for outerwear. notice the bustier top.

picture fashionwindows.com

 

[fashion.fashoff]

you're right user. i guess she just re-used the white circular motifs in a later collection.

 

[BBBBB]

Such a GREAT thread! Thanks user500 for the "six" images; I´d never seen them before! Sublime.

Wanted to ask if there are used bookstores that sell old fashion promo material, like "six", those direct-mail cards from CDG & manifestos? Or is it just ebay etc where one has to turn to for those? Contact details?


Thanks in advance!

 

[fashion.fashoff]

vintage fashion promo material of any kind seems to be hard to find, but this is especially true of avant-garde designers.

i use bookfinder.com to look for old fashion material (it is a great search tool that goes thru the inventories of all of the online used booksellers). currently volume 4 of "six" is there for $1500 . probably things turn up once in a while on ebay too, but i haven't noticed much in the way of invitations, "six" magazine, etc., and suspect the bidding would be spirited and drive prices up. the cdg issue of visionaire does come up from time to time.

there is a bookstore, i think in brooklyn, specializing in vintage fashion publications, but now i can't remember its name or website. does anybody know the name of this store?

probably many of the direct mailers were discarded, damaged, or lost, or else collectors are hanging onto them.

if you live in/near a large "fashion" city, or ever visit any, you should try used book stores, thrift stores, flea markets, etc. this is where i have found 90% of my vintage fashion material. probably new york, paris, tokyo, london, etc. are the most likely places.

here are two invitations from a/w 83 (issey miyake & junko koshino). apologies if i have already posted these elsewhere, i just can't remember. found these for $2 at a vintage store

pix mine

 

[user500]

BBBBB, i assume, that you already know this: there's a book 'comme des garcons' by france grand from the 'universe of fashion' series. it is quite easy to get and inexpensive (i got it for 7$). you can find pictures of 'six', ad campaigns and postings in it.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

BBBBB, what types of things are you looking for? just vintage CDG publications (catalogs, mailers, "six", etc), or also information like runway pictures, editorials, biography/history? also, just CDG or are there other designers you like too?

there is a thread somewhere about recommended books about fashion and designers, which you might find helpful.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

cdg a/w 83, pictured in the "fashion forecast" section of playbill, june, 1983.

pic by me

 

[BBBBB]

fashion.fashoff: thanks for sharing! I´ll have to look into those things ASAP! & That Miyake invite looks a gem! I´m mostly into CDG now, but I´ll look into the book thread!

user500: yes I have that France Grand book, but somehow it isn´t enough...

I also ordered this book from amazon.co.jp (sorry if repost); the price is extortion 9,975 yen and the print quality not that great even. But it has some images from six & promos (many of which you can find elsewhere). (The cover is an ad for CDG SHIRT.)

pic from amazon.co.jp