1970s-1990s The Japanese Avant-garde

[gius]

that's great, runner thank you :-P

i remember that the people who went along the change, they were called "moga" and "mobo" (modern girl | modern boy)

it's neat to point out that it's only males doing this in these pictures.
and that the hakama/kimono for men is quite large in silhouette, seems to be full of triangles or squares
whereas the women's is more straight and like a cylinder, but with square sleeves.

 

[runner]

you're welcome droogist


gius, there appeared a word "haikara" first, around 1900.
hai-kara, that is, high collar for the western style in general.
then, as an antithesis, "bankara".
ban is 蛮 which means rough, coarse, unpolished, etc.
both terms are about things and people with each style.

and, in the 20's, they called the westernized "moga/mobo".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_girl
it seems that on the whole females could enjoy haikara and being moga.
also bankara could have been a bit too hard-core, even if there had been females who were not comfortable with the new things.
btw, by the time of the launch of so-en, the western style had totally been accepted apparently.
http://fashionjp.net/archive/sch/vol1.html

though, as you see in the last pic in #520, the head of the cheering group in the super wide leg modified pants called "dokan" and the elongated jacket "chu-ran" is a girl.
so maybe there is contemporary bankara, regardless of female/male.



bankara.net

 

[BerlinRocks]

Reading something (Serge Daney - a french cinema critic) and came across the mention of Wenders + Yamomoto 1989 movie made for tv ...
Notebook on Cities and Clothes ...

Anyone ever see this movie ?
I guess ... Coz it seems it has been released in vhs in the mid 1990s and on dvd in the 2000s.

anyone has a youtube-whetever link ?

 

[ilaughead]

^Saw it a while ago, but I wasn't too impressed. It wasn't very focused, and a surprising amount of time was spent on topics that didn't involve Yamamoto at all. I seem to remember a lot of shots of driving on the roads, but that might be Tokyo-Ga I'm thinking of. (Not a big fan of Wenders' stuff usually, but maybe if you are it'd be more enjoyable?)

This isn't too busy of a subforum, is it?

 

[gius]

1983
photo: Ken Browar

left: issey miyake
reversible black and white woven coat
worn over a dress with a corrugated effect

right: comme des garcons
large braided pullover with tight skirt

orig post by hfgl
~ jalougallery

 

[gius]

^Saw it a while ago, but I wasn't too impressed. It wasn't very focused, and a surprising amount of time was spent on topics that didn't involve Yamamoto at all. I seem to remember a lot of shots of driving on the roads, but that might be Tokyo-Ga I'm thinking of. (Not a big fan of Wenders' stuff usually, but maybe if you are it'd be more enjoyable?)

This isn't too busy of a subforum, is it?

i didn't enjoy most of it either.. and i thought there was not much stuff about Yohji at all too, but the little that they did show, was quite nice...

berlinrocks try your public library ;-) i get almost everything from there, before buying at least...

 

[MissMagAddict]

Reading something (Serge Daney - a french cinema critic) and came across the mention of Wenders + Yamomoto 1989 movie made for tv ...
Notebook on Cities and Clothes ...

Anyone ever see this movie ?
I guess ... Coz it seems it has been released in vhs in the mid 1990s and on dvd in the 2000s.

anyone has a youtube-whetever link ?

I have it on DVD & I've watched it a few times. I loved it. It really isn't a documentary per se... more like a piece of art by an artist admiring another artist. There's are also extras where Wenders discusses his approach to making the film, some deleted scenes, etc.


source | amazon.com


Here's the thread where MulletProof posted screencaps from the DVD. Just scroll down a bit & you'll see it.

 

[BerlinRocks]

thanks all.
yes gius, i'll check university library. they may have it, i guess.

and thanks MMA for linking to screencaps.
(i may have no memory at all ... i posted just after Mullet's post ........... no comment !)

 

[fashion.fashoff]

here is a cdg sack dress. it has an asymmetrical shape, unfinished fabric at the shoulders, and little pockets of extra fabric at a couple of the seams. the tag with the date was cut off, but from the style it looks 80s. the store i got it from had a bunch of other 80s cdg pieces, but they weren't as interesting.

pix by me

 

[MissMagAddict]

YOHJI YAMAMOTO
US Harper's Bazaar February 1998
Stylist: Melanie Ward
Photographer: Mario Sorrenti


source | readysetfashion.blogspot.com

 

[MissMagAddict]

ANOTHER WORLD OF STYLE... REI KAWAKUBO
US Vogue August 1987
Interview by Elsa Klensch
Photographer: Deborah Turbeville
Rei Photographed by Steven Meisel


source | scanned by hfgl

 

[fashion.fashoff]

issey miyake (not pleats please) pants

pix by me

 

[girlalamode]

^^^ Wow! Those are amazing!

 

[Pastry]

Hi guys,

I have a question. Has anyone here got a clear image of the iconic Yohji image of the black silhouette with the red tulle bustle? I mean, has a link to one?..

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[MissMagAddict]

^This is the best one I have


source | showstudio

 

[sergeantkero]

#532 ; amazing.

japan has/is one of the most amazing culture.

 

[Pastry]

That's perfect, MMA! Thank you.

 

[runner]

CdG from kci.or.jp

1983 F/ W , 1984 S/ S

 

[runner]

1987 S/ S , 1992 F/ W

 

[runner]

1998 S/ S , 1991 F/ W
1997 S/ S