1970s-1990s The Japanese Avant-garde

[minxlove88X]

Excellent X

 

[fashion.fashoff]

yohji yamamoto pour homme coat, mid-late 90s i think

100% nylon. it has a messy abstract watercolor pattern. the buttons are wood, with an actual japanese lacquer finish, a detail i found very thoughtful

pics by me

 

[Scott]

PS: Does anyone know anything about Koji Tatsuno? He was a protege of Yohji's in the early 90s but got forced out of business a while ago (not sure if he started back up again, though, all I can find on him are a handful of short interviews and a New York Magazine article that mentions him)....any info would be welcome!

if i am not mistaken i do believe koji stopped back in the early 00's for reasons i am not certain of. but he did reappear in 2002 to resurrect the house of madame grès but i believe that has since ended. koji was also a work placement for one alexander mcqueen,whom had counted him amongst his most beneficial training experiences. it is where i really feel lee truly embraced a sense of rawness and texture,imo. koji also,along with maison martin margiela, designed costumes for the film 'the pillow book' starring ewan mcgregor back in 1996.


i did find this image from his a/w 93-94 collection

unfortunately there isn't much available in the way of information on the web. most everything i would assume would be in print.

*becomingfearless.typepad.com

 

[travolta]

this thread brings back good memories...

if anybody cares, i just bought my first issey miyake piece. no, unfortunately it isn't pleats please as those items are way out of my budget, it's a olive tank with a mesh overlay.

 

[user500]

does anybody have information about the brand matsuda? also runway photos (?) or editorial photos?

 

[runner]

sounds nice travolta




matsuda S/S 1990
as you see shot by jan saudek

seirentei.exblog.jp

 

[user500]

thank you, runner!

 

[fashion.fashoff]

2 old yohji long garments, early to mid 80s

thin white linen w/plastic buttons:

black linen w/metal buttons. the fabric has alternating blocks of plain and waffle texture linen.

issey miyake 2-piece suit w/zippered openings along backs of pant legs & around jacket

pics by me

 

[fashion.fashoff]

does anybody have information about the brand matsuda? also runway photos (?) or editorial photos?

a few pieces from the matsuda s/s 93 menswear look book. clothes designed by yukio kobayashi (who had been with matsuda since 1976, and became a chief designer of menswear in 1983 and womenswear in 1995); photographs by geof kern.

scanned by me

 

[user500]

these show an aspect of the style/ design which i connect with matsuda from what i saw of a few single pieces; raw materials with different kind of embroideries, which create a very graphic effect.
i like the clothes in the first picture.

thank you, fashion.fashoff!

 

[fashion.fashoff]

matsuda sunglasses seem to have quite a following. i don't know if this is because linda hamilton wore matsudas in terminator, or if it is just based on the cool designs. search "matsuda sunglasses" on ebay.

 

[softgrey]

i miss matsuda...
the ads in the 80's were SO good...

the sunglasses were always a highlight...so i am not surprised they have some sort of cult following!

 

[fashion.fashoff]

does anybody have old yohji runway pictures? i would like to know what season my coat (posted above, with the colorful watercolor pattern) is from. would like to see other pieces from the collection and how the collection was styled.

 

[runner]

^ could you provide the code/series of letters that there is written inside that starts with, maybe, h ? otherwise any info of that kind.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

hi runner- it is H1 C04 907
is there some kind of pattern/system with these codes that i don't know about?

 

[runner]

there may be exceptions especially with the earlier stuff, but basically:

HI
H is homme ( as the code on the womens starts with F...femme ) and the next alphabet represents the season ( therefore changes every six months ).

C04
C - the item, so in this case it's the C of coat. J for jackets, T for cut and sewn aka t-shirt, and so on.
04 - the style

907
the material
if it starts with 9, it is "isozai" ( I cannot think of the english equivalent that feels just right, but things like fake leather, nylon, etc are typically called so ).
if the initial number is 0, it's cotton. if it's 1XX, it's wool. this info on this material section could be wrong. so please check your own pieces and you will work it out.



the coat is from F/W 97.
I don't remember how the coat was styled on the runway. but I have several tiny pics to scan from the collection, though the look in question is not included unfortunately, if you are interested. or there might be a thread for the collection somewhere.
anyway the collection was about "real and fake".
it was a bit unusual for yohji. the models were all young professional ones in android type.
the image was "waxworks". it was shown under the fluorescent lights, maybe for the overall paleness and the minimum smell of human.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

Wow thanks runner! That is great info. If you have scans of the collection iit would be cool to see.

Do you know if there is a similar system for issey miyake codes?

 

[runner]

you're welcome fashion.fashoff
then I'll scan later, also see if I have a few firstview pics in the external storage. I might have saved only my favorite looks from the collection.

I think there should be some system for miyake too although I don't know how it works.
perhaps you can induce from the codes on your miyake pieces.

 

[runner]

F/ W 97

.

 

[runner]

costumes for the kitano film by yohji

.