A Guide To Bespoke - Savile Row

softgrey

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the answers to all the questions we have all asked ourselves...
INTRODUCTION

In this age of globalization, shopping is in danger of becoming an homogenized experience. But, when it comes to bespoke, England still reigns supreme, whether you're looking for a one-of-a-kind handbag or an impeccable but fashion-forward suit. In this section, you'll find our favorite London sources, but first a few answers to your nagging questions about custom.

Aren't tailored suits for, like, my granddaddy?

No, bespoke is no longer the sole province of the titled and elderly. Cool, contemporary guys—including hip hop producers, rock icons, and media mavens—are opting for updated custom classics from a new generation of Savile Row tailors. And given the price of off-the-rack designer gear these days, you could argue that, at $2,000-5,000, a hard-wearing bespoke suit is a relative bargain.

Will I have to have a million fittings?

Like life, bespoke tailoring is a journey, not a destination, but the process is probably simpler than you had feared. Whether you choose made-to-measure or custom (see below), most tailors require at least two fittings. You should expect an extended initial session, during which (almost) every inch of your body will be measured, and a follow-up appointment for adjustments when the suit is ready six to eight weeks later. Depending on your tailor's methodology and your personal requirements, there may be further adjustment sessions. As Petter Lundgren, the manager at Spencer Hart's Savile Row store, points out, the amount of time involved "depends on the customer's posture and shape."

Made-to-measure? Custom? What's the difference?

Custom suits are tailored entirely from scratch. Made-to-measure suits are based on an existing pattern that is adapted to your body. Made to measure is a slightly less intensive process, and the suits, while still superb in quality and finish, are about half the price of custom. This is a good option for customers new to the art of bespoke.

Either way, I'll need a private jet then?

Not necessarily. If you can't come to Savile Row, Savile Row will come to you. Many British tailors regularly visit New York (and even some other American cities), and you can contact them ahead of time to make an appointment. At a pinch, Lundgren says, you can even do the first fitting with the man from London, then have your local tailor carry out any adjustments when the suit arives.

To sum up, custom-made clothing may require a little commitment on your behalf, but the result is a suit that will truly stand out from the pack. :flower:
 
spencer hart...
 

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bespoke for women... :woot:
WELL-SUITED
Stella McCartney
Many men's tailors, including Ozwald Boateng, Richard James, and Spencer Hart, now offer their personalized service and sharp tailoring to women clients. But if you want to put yourself in the hands of a cutting-edge womenswear designer, look no further than Stella McCartney. The favorite couturier of Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Moss, et al. now employs a seasoned tailor, Henry Rose, at her London boutique. These custom-made suits, while conforming to the sharp Savile Row silhouette, bear McCartney's girlish-chic imprimatur.
30 Bruton Street, 44-207/518-3100

plus we know that you can get a custom suit for women at dior homme... :flower: :heart:
 
mmm custom suits are delicious and thanks for the info softie. Though the prices can be quite high a good suit is always in style. Love that stella is doing them for women now and I didn't know that dior homme did them. I just knew that I could get clothing at dior homme. How perfect!!
 
I think a bespoke suit by a good tailor is a much cheaper/better option than going through the bespoke (or so-called) arm of a famous designer. You will pay dearly for the name....
 
you're welcome meg...and that's a good point theory... with a designer all you'll really pay for is a label...

souunds like made to measure is a good option!!...
in my dreams...i would have all my clothes custom-made or at least tailored for me...

when i was much younger...i worked as a buyer in a very exclusive boutique and alterations were free... (this is how they were able to compete with barney's and the other boutiques in the city)...

so everyone had EVERY SINGLE item altered... including the sleeves and width of their t-shirts...it was an absolute dream...and the tailors they had on staff were brilliant ...they could alter a chanel suit or a dior gown...and you would never even know it had been touched....just miraculous work... ^_^ :crush:

i still dream of that... :blush: :innocent:
 
thanks softgrey

I like Spencer Hart which reminds me of a bit new romantics.
 

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you're very welcome runner...

yes..i was looking back on some previous threads and saw that you had actually quoted spencer hart about the 'future of fashion'... something about cheap suits having a working cuff...

i didn't know who he was at the time...i still have a lot to learn regarding menswear...but everyone on this forum teaches me something everyday...

nice jacket you posted...
 
Thanks Softe for this topic! I dabble in relm and though I would everyone love everyone here in New York to buy one of my suits, there are many great tailors here that will actually do a bespoke suit for as little as $400, mine start at $1500.
Howeverr since these are small shops they may be backed up for months. But here are a few people I know:

Berkensteins: 39th between 7th and 8th, Manhattan
Ramone the Tailor on Forsythe, Manhattan
Amsalom Micheal James, Bronks New York

Also guys check out Delancy street area also. Also a word of advise when contacting a tailor for this work. Know that ths type of tailoring envolves a floating canvas that is padstitched to the body in the lapels, not fused with interfacing. Also spend the money on only the best fabrics, 100s,120s, 150s, 200s wool, cashmere, silk, linen. Italian, English, Tasmanian fabrics. Ask to see the lining they will use also, and ask if hand topstiching and hand btn holes are included in price.
 
Thanks for the topic, Softie!

Dammit, I wish I didn't throw out that last issue of Vitals. There was like a 10 page guide to Saville Row, who does what and when they come to the US. Oh, well. Suits are really not my realm, although I should get one soon, before I start looking for a new job.
 
Thanks for making this thread sg!

I love wearing suits...I wish I had more opportunities to wear them. I'm a huge fan of that George Clooney look with suits, a simple black suit with a shirt unbuttoned to the top of the sternum, very effortless and crisp look. I, too have that dream of having a closet full of custom made clothes...a room where i could step into and choose from racks of impeccably tailored suits and shirts in the finest fabrics. :blush:
 
Thanks for the article Soft :flower:

I would love to intern or work for a tailor so that I could perfect my tailoring skills. Especially so I could make pants that fit perfectly (my dream). Although it would be much nicer to have somebody do it for me.....
Stella actually worked on Saville Row when she was in school, so it is only logical that she would offer such services for women.
 
you are welcome to everyone...and thank you to clay for the helpful insider tips...
faust...why did you throw away that article...?!?! :hardhead: :D
 
Originally posted by softgrey@Dec 2 2004, 12:21 PM
you are welcome to everyone...and thank you to clay for the helpful insider tips...
faust...why did you throw away that article...?!?! :hardhead: :D
[snapback]447574[/snapback]​

See my original reply :lol:
 
Thanks Soft for starting this topic. I like your style :flower:

There is this very nice shop called Eredi Pisano located on 53rd and Madison (NYC) that has both made to measure and custom suits , shirts and jackets.

They also use the best of fabrics and cashmere from Loro Piana. ::::::SIGH:::::::
For that sophisticated and elegant man :heart: (they don't carry womens clothing at this location, only in Rome) :(

I like a men with a bit of Borelli , Kiton, Zegna and a dash of Etro. :heart: :heart: :heart: yummy
 
I liked that issue of VITALS, it is 100x better than Cargo. They are giving free subscriptions on their website......it's defintely not a throwaway type of mag.....I won't say I'm impressed (I too have little use for formalwear, but acknowledge it has its crowd and appreciate the art form) but I am liking it.....they are making a VITALS for women as well.....

Originally posted by faust@Dec 2 2004, 08:46 AM
Thanks for the topic, Softie!

Dammit, I wish I didn't throw out that last issue of Vitals. There was like a 10 page guide to Saville Row, who does what and when they come to the US. Oh, well. Suits are really not my realm, although I should get one soon, before I start looking for a new job.
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you are very welcome modelmama...welcome to our little forum...!!!
and thank you for the compliment...

and for the info... :flower:
 
Originally posted by Theory@Dec 2 2004, 08:44 PM
I liked that issue of VITALS, it is 100x better than Cargo. They are giving free subscriptions on their website......it's defintely not a throwaway type of mag.....I won't say I'm impressed (I too have little use for formalwear, but acknowledge it has its crowd and appreciate the art form) but I am liking it.....they are making a VITALS for women as well.....
[snapback]448327[/snapback]​

Yep. We've discussed this in the "what magazines you bought/received recently." I am waiting for my next free issue.
 
Top Shop Bespoke

Top Shop is launching an Atelier service at its flagship store in Oxford Circus next week. With party season fast approaching the forward thinking chain store has come up with a couture alternative. From five classic styles clients can personalize their very own dress by selecting the fabric, length, colour and detailing. As each dress is bespoke it is created to flatter each individual’s body. Prices range from £120 - £190 and each design takes approximately two weeks to create. The TopShop Atelier range at Oxford Circus will be available from 23rd October, for more info call: 020 7927 7863.
 
I moved this because I thought it seemed more related to shop till you drop. :flower:
 

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