A Guide To Bespoke - Savile Row

[Incroyable]

Sartorial wear is such an intricate, and highly detailed process with many subtlties.

For example on Saille Row peak lapels are termed "nose-pickers." And nobody refers to anything as a French cuff.

However the Italian or Neapolitian look is another viable option for people looking into bespoke. Kiton is a top tier maker as well as Attolini, Isaia, er al.

 

[Acid]

I love walking down Saville Row and Jermyn Street.....you get a real sence of old english suited and booted gentlemen. I always wonder what jobs these people actually do

 

[doo888]

I love walking down Saville Row and Jermyn Street.....you get a real sence of old english suited and booted gentlemen. I always wonder what jobs these people actually do

I concur with that cuz i quite like the feeling too, though i'd probably never get anything until i'm like 40 There's always Jil Sander at the end though B)

As for the people... aristocrats, toffs, merchant bankers i guess!

 

[raijin]

I'll defintley be saving my pennies to get an anatomica t when they first come out.

 

[softgrey]

Guys, at Mood Designer Fabrics I have met many people like myself that do custom work, people in costume design, architects, interior designers, stylists( tons of stylist for everybody you can imagine). Also many entertainers that come in to find great fabrics so they can have their clothes made. It makes sense ,since it is cheaper to get someone that can sew a garment than spend a million dollars for designer dudes. However, I have come to realize that some of the entertainers, atheletes ect are extremely cheap, and hence they get what they pay for. It can be quite evident when you see some of the announcers, singers, rappers
on TV. I find it quite funny often.

But Mood itself is great. They actually buy many fabrics from designers and mills from the states and abroad. They have two floors of wall to wall goods, with new shipments almost everyday. Fabric heaven. Also if you ask most sales people they can give you info on a local tailor , designer, or seamtress that can do anything according to your needs and wallet. Also they swatch without a hassle. A nice change from the other places. I know we have mentioned this place before, but I wanted to testify to its greatness. Can I get an Amen????

Also the silk Brocades and jaquards, fine coatings, and fine worsted are to die for. Plus 30% to 70% off retail prices, plus you can get fabrics right from the designers that you love.Believe me you will notice them immediatly if you know them.

Mood Designer Fabrics
225 W37st, 3rd floor, 11th floor
Nyc,Ny

AMEN!!!
B)

 

[lady grey]

shirting

I strongly recommend custom shirts from the following:
turnbull & asser
thomas pink
chas. thyrwitt
hilditch & key

like well-tailored custom suit, custom-made shirts simply fit the best, and of course you choose collar, cuffs, & fabrics. I prefer spread collar [ainsley] and french cuffs of course. a white collar & cuffs looks dashing against a darker/patterned shirt body.

 

[Taitai]

I was gently encouraging my boyfriend to go to Saville Row when he was in the UK for a vacation and he was like "That's for old fuddyduddies."

 

[sbbbjm]

i saw in GQ that Ralph has designed a men's collection for 'Black Label' -- from the description i read all the pics i saw i believe its supposed to incorporate more modern cuts and is generally less conservative than his 'Purple Label' line. the price points seemed to be above Polo but below Purple Label as the suits they were showcasing were ~$2100

 

[softgrey]

Just a question about his collection pieces in general but regarding this piece in particular, would the jacket be fused or canvassed?

enak...those are technical terms i'm not familiar with...would you please explain further?...

thx...

 

[kit]

enak...those are technical terms i'm not familiar with...would you please explain further?...

thx...

For Soft

The two terms are from tailoring , of the Savile Row type .
In a bespoke suit , the interlining is canvas and hangs loose within the jacket .

A cheaper way to achieve somewhat the same effect in a made to measure or pret a porter suit is to fuse the cavas interlining by bonding it with heat , NOT something for the purists .

The velvet jacket in the post must be fused , as it is ' ready - to - wear ' and not bespoke .

As for the question on Ralph Lauren Black Label , this should clear things up :-

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4329

Hope this is of help . B)

 

[enak]

Kit: I was thinking along a similar line, but my friend who works for Ralph Lauren has told me that this particular jacket was indeed canvassed as is all mens Purple Label. As much as I respect your explanation and opinion, I wish to seek a definative answer.

 

[softgrey]

kit...thanks for the explanation...so do i understand this?...if the lining is fused...then you would not be able to pull it away from the garment because they are stuck together...?...fused?...do they fuse the lining on and then sew the garment together?...do you know the process?...

you know...we have a bespoke thread pinned in shop till you drop now...
perhaps it would be good to include this in that topic...?...

 

[kit]

i don't think chaps is a label...or a collection justlooking...but the name of one of the fragrances...


kit...thanks for the explanation...so do i understand this?...if the lining is fused...then you would not be able to pull it away from the garment because they are stuck together...?...fused?...do they fuse the lining on and then sew the garment together?...do you know the process?...

you know...we have a bespoke thread pinned in shop till you drop now...
perhaps it would be good to include this in that topic...?...

I think I've got it right . Fusing is the cheaper option . Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Giorgio Armani BLack Label suits are canvassed , Armani Collezioni and Polo Ralph Lauren suits are fused .

Go ahead and move it , Chuck , You're the boss .

 

[softgrey]

moved...

 

[enak]

Also regarding fused vs canvassed suits, canvassed suits last a lot longer than fused suits because when you dry clean them, heating is involved, and also melts the 'glue' sticking the layers together, eventually you will have a suit that doesn't hold it's shape, while canvassed suits do not come across this problem. You will probably hear of saville row suits keeping for over 50 years of wear.

This works out to be better value for money

 

[softgrey]

thanks enak...that makes perfect sense...
good tip...

 

[kit]

Some useful and interesting reading here :-


http://www.englishcut.com/

and here :-

http://www.8savilerow.com/

Happy reading .B)

 

[Johnny]

Kit, fascinating, thanks v much.

Is making me want a bespoke suit. Thinking that I could get one for the price of a carpe diem leather shirt.... that's only a reason not to buy a carpe diem leather shirt though!

 

[kit]

Kit, fascinating, thanks v much.

Is making me want a bespoke suit. Thinking that I could get one for the price of a carpe diem leather shirt.... that's only a reason not to buy a carpe diem leather shirt though!

I have to agree with you on LINEA, L'MALTIERI , CARPE DIEM etc , as I think it's overrated and CERTAINLY overpriced , despite my being a leather freak - hence the CLAUDE MONTANA avatar !!!

Did you know that POLLYANNA used to sell CARPE DIEM ?

I wonder why Rita stopped .

 

[Johnny]

I have to agree with you on LINEA, L'MALTIERI , CARPE DIEM etc , as I think it's overrated and CERTAINLY overpriced , despite my being a leather freak - hence the CLAUDE MONTANA avatar !!!

Did you know that POLLYANNA used to sell CARPE DIEM ?

I wonder why Rita stopped .

Ah, I didn't know that. That's interesting actually. I suspect she stopped becasue no one bought it because it was too expensive.