Alber Elbaz - Designer

[fashionista-ta]

Good, we're getting somewhere. I think this whole affair is basically just a solid relationship which ran it's course. Neither parties sounds inherently like the 'villain' nor the 'victim', imo. Interested to see how it pans out, no report so far at all.

Seems more to me like what was a good marriage now ended in an acrimonious divorce ... which is too bad, for so many reasons.


I can see that this 'losing face' obsession could lead to some less than desirable consequences. I'm sure this has been engaged in a serious way by the revolt. Sometimes (OK, the vast majority of the time) a little humility goes a lot further than a great deal of ego.


It's also interesting what she said in the interview about feeling obligated not to destroy Lanvin. (Hopefully that is top of mind now?)


I'm not that familiar with the menswear. I wonder if that snippet is the result of Lucas himself reaching out to the press to say he's interested? There would be a certain safety in that choice.

 

[Pricciao]

I haven't read what you guys are arguing about, but everyone knows that once you start correcting peoples language or grammar, you have lost

Cause I already said wikipedia page in a previous post as you can see in Fashionstuff's quote. I don't know if it's she correcting my grammar, or me doing it.

I think the whole thing is getting on my nerves, I just can't.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I certainly share the same sentiments about the menswear - definitely one of the most interesting and worth-a-look menswear collections, but it would be quite a pine for Elbaz if the aesthetic doesn't change while the womenswear becomes something else - as has been already said: the two go hand-in-hand perfectly.

I always found Calvin Klein Collection to be somewhat disconnected like this - the womenswear modern, fragile and thoughtful and the menswear to be unremarkable and a little dated.

 

[fashionista-ta]

artquill.blogspot.com

^ You guys are so rhapsodic about the menswear & the collections complementing each other that you're making me regret not following it all these years I don't actually follow any of the mens' collections


Just saw this image on Pinterest, and it's the first time I've been able to see a literal connection between anything in the archive & Alber's Lanvin. The gold dress on the right, the pannier effect and draping ...

 

[Nymphaea]

Lanvin Labor Dispute Reaches Paris Court

PARIS, 1 Dec — The battle between the management of Lanvin and its works council following the departure of creative director Alber Elbaz has ended up in a Paris court.

Lawyers for both sides duked it out at the Tribunal de Grande Instance on Tuesday, after the management of Lanvin launched legal proceedings against the works council to stop it from using the company’s e-mail and messaging boards to share information with members of staff regarding the designer’s ouster.

Johann Sultan of CBR & Associés, representing the company, also asked judge Pénélope Postel-Vinay to suspend the “right to notify” procedure launched by the group of employee representatives, which says it is concerned about the economic and social welfare of Lanvin following what it calls the “brutal” eviction of its star designer.

Sultan told the court that Elbaz was let go after he tried to sell his shares in “another company in the Lanvin group.”

A spokeswoman for Lanvin subsequently clarified that Elbaz does not directly own shares in Jeanne Lanvin S.A., of which 75 percent is held by Chinese-born magnate Shaw-Lan Wang and the remaining 25 percent by German entrepreneur Ralph Bartel, via parent company Arpège SAS.

She added that Elbaz held shares in another company belonging to Wang, without providing additional details.

Sultan told the court that Elbaz held “advanced talks” behind Wang’s back to find a buyer for Lanvin and subsequently spoke out at the company’s board meeting. “There was absolutely no questioning of his creativity,” he said of the reasons for the designer’s dismissal. “This was just all about the big bucks.”

Elbaz was subontracted to Lanvin via his company AEK Designs, according to Isabelle Schucké-Niel of law firm Schucké-Niel Avocats, representing the works council.

A private limited liability company under sole ownership, AEK Designs posted annual revenues of 5.6 million euros, or $7.5 million, in 2014, down from 5.9 million euros, or $7.8 million, in 2013, according to public records. All dollar rates are calculated at average exchange rates for the period concerned.

Schucké-Niel told the court that the designer’s severance package could cost Lanvin between 20 million euros and 40 million euros, or $27.5 million to $55 million at current exchange.

However, she added that Lanvin chief executive officer Michèle Huiban had told staff representatives she did not yet have an estimate of the cost of firing Elbaz. “Senior management afforded itself the luxury of a whim without even knowing how much it would cost,” Schucké-Niel said ironically.

She pointed out that the additional outlay comes in a year when Lanvin is poised to post its first loss since 2007. Lanvin’s profits declined from 11.9 million euros, or $15.3 million, in 2012 to 5.7 million euros, or $7.5 million, in 2013 and 2.9 million euros, or $3.9 million, in 2014, according to public records.

“Yes, orders are down,” Sultan said, adding that this was due to a combination of economic factors – including declining demand from Russia and Hong Kong and unfavorable exchange rates — and the fact that Lanvin has only a modest accessories business. However, he said the company was in good health.

“Today, the house of Lanvin comfortably has the means to cope with this decline in orders,” he added. “There are only positive signs. No layoffs are being considered.”

He pointed out that the company had no trouble securing a bank loan recently to buy back the brand’s Japanese operations from Itochu Corp.

Sultan accused the works council of misinforming and lying to staff, and said it had no right to use the company e-mail to discuss management decisions. “The content is violent and disparaging,” he said. “It is 100 percent reminiscent of a union handout.”

He asked the judge to order staff representatives to take down several documents posted on the company’s bulletin boards, including two letters written by Elbaz.

Schucké-Niel asked the judge to dismiss all the company’s requests, saying the works council was up against “an opaque system of obstruction and autocracy” that did not approve of employees seeking information about the company’s finances.

Both sides requested damages and interest in the case. The ruling has been scheduled for Dec. 16.

wwd

 

[Fashionstuff]

It seems main stakeholder wants destroy Elbaz careere and also his life.
I don't know what could or would be worth, have a creative pause or

Sultan told the court that Elbaz held “advanced talks” behind Wang’s back to find a buyer for Lanvin and subsequently spoke out at the company’s board meeting.

Source : WWD.com

 

[fashionista-ta]

Thanks for posting, Nymphaea. Nice to see anyway that severance will be quite significant.

 

[Littleathquakes]

It seems main stakeholder wants destroy Elbaz careere and also his life.
I don't know what could or would be worth, have a creative pause or
Source : WWD.com

Shows just how ruthless they can be. the man's creative mind kept their company relevant and who knows, maybe they made a few bucks, too :rollseyes: . Now they want to just make sure he pretty much dies.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I'm not sure what she wants, but I do know for sure she doesn't have that kind of power.


This statement about the stock ... I'm curious as to whether she misled him as to what he was buying, or if there were conditions to the sale he wasn't aware of, which would in my view be fraudulent ... or if really the whole statement is BS, which wouldn't be a first.


When he was in her good graces, he was not only a great talent, but a good businessman. When he's not, he's the dirt under her fingernails who has no right to talk to anyone. The reality is, though, that he is an owner of the company and does have the right to speak to potential buyers. When you refuse to listen, it does become inevitable that the people you won't listen to will start talking to those who will.


The 'autocratic' characterization by the works council seems very much in line with my impression of her as believing that she is absolute ruler of Lanvin. Even actual royals are a little more realistic these days.

 

[Benn98]

It seems main stakeholder wants destroy Elbaz careere and also his life.
I don't know what could or would be worth, have a creative pause or

Well, I still maintain that both of them are without blame here. His way of trying to depose Wang from the company sounds hardly commendable. It's just surprising to me how messy this whole thing is developing. I'll say this again, his move seems likely to be overshadowed by this debacle.

 

[Lola701]

I don't know if it's still relevant judging by all the conversations about this messy affair but Alber attended the Louis Vuitton Exhibition opening at Le Grand Palais yesterday.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Shows just how ruthless they can be. the man's creative mind kept their company relevant and who knows, maybe they made a few bucks, too :rollseyes: . Now they want to just make sure he pretty much dies.

Well, I still maintain that both of them are without blame here. His way of trying to depose Wang from the company sounds hardly commendable. It's just surprising to me how messy this whole thing is developing. I'll say this again, his move seems likely to be overshadowed by this debacle.

Horrible. After 14 years of perferct "marriage". Wang will destroy his reputation, who knows why... She doesn't care.
Fashionista-ta wrote that it can be fraudulent, yes,
it can be fraudulent or also not, but if Elbaz will start legal claim so he will loose his "face" , and maybe his future in fashion business.
The works council wanted to do the best for Elbaz but all this Story start to be some Kind of character assassination, It is calumny.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Surely 'depose' is the wrong word. We don't know at all how it really went down, because he hasn't told his side of the story, so it's impossible to see what the middle ground is. But he clearly knew as well as we do that Wang is the majority stockholder, and her selling would need to be of her own free will. He simply made a case at the board meeting that doing so would be both in her interest and that of the company. She took it personally--very personally. But there's no way he wouldn't have tried to talk to her about it first. I suspect she has a way of cutting people off when she's not interested in what they have to say.


Additionally, her legal team characterized it as his 'finding a buyer for Lanvin.' We have nothing but her word on that--and the interview posted earlier makes it quite clear that she can be economical with the truth. If you were interested in buying Lanvin, wouldn't you approach all three stockholders--particularly if one hangs up on you?


The very idea of trying to legally block the ability of the works council to communicate and use company tools to do so seems absolutely ludicrous to me, but I know nothing about French employment law. It will be interesting to see what the ruling is.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Interesting article titled "Lanvin and Alber Elbaz: The Story of a Breakup" wrote by Vanessa Friedman , to read all in nytimes.com
Here is only a short Quote from last part of the article :
Source: nytimes.com

Lanvin and Alber Elbaz: The Story of a Breakup
.......................................................
.............Before he was fired Mr. Elbaz, had hired Chemena Kamali from Chloé as women’s design director; she arrived three days before he was ousted, and is currently in charge of creating the pre-collection with the studio team, to be shown in January. Lucio Finale has been brought in to focus on accessories. (Lucas Ossendrijver will continue to design the men’s wear collection.) Head hunters report feelers have been put out by employees on the corporate side looking for other job prospects. Last week, a long-term member of the studio, was suspended for being “uncooperative” and allegedly undermining the new studio director, charges he denied.

“What’s clear is whatever the brand is after Alber, it has to be something different,” said Mr. Andretta. Names that have surfaced as possibilities for the artistic director position include the buzzy British designer Simone Rocha and the Chinese designer Huishan Zhang.

As for Mr. Elbaz, though rumors flew when he left that he would go to Dior (which had lost its designer, Raf Simons, only a week before Mr. Elbaz was fired), that speculation has died down. Though he recently joined Instagram and has posted pictures of himself with Bono, who dedicated the song “Beautiful Day” to him during a November concert in Paris, Mr. Elbaz has kept a low profile, and is said to be pondering his options. After being fired from Saint Laurent, he spent a year in the wilderness, questioning his commitment to fashion, but this time he is said to be planning to return. He does not have a noncompete with Lanvin.

“Maybe he’d want his own house,” said Kim Hastreiter, co-founder and editor of Paper, who has known Mr. Elbaz since before he moved to Paris (and who played percussion along with the band Pink Martini at his Lanvin 10th anniversary party, where he serenaded guests with “Que Sera, Sera”). He remains a Lanvin board member. Though there was a directors’ meeting scheduled for this week, it has been postponed until after the holidays because Mr. Bartel could not attend.

source:nytimes.com

 

[Benn98]

Wang's detractors will have a field day if they hire a Zhang. He's a tremendous artist, and in theory should suit the brand, but all this intrigue will overshadow his appointment. I agree with Andretta, there needs to be a rejuvernation. Elbaz did well for the house, but a continuation of the current direction would just rub salt into the everybody's wounds.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Interesting about the new accessories guy. I think I'm seeing post-Alber shoes on their site & promoted in W ... is that possible?


I suspect the corporate employees aren't the only ones who want to leave ... I think it's going to be a struggle for the company to come back from this fiasco. Certainly Wang has engendered a lot of ill will in informed customers who were fans of Alber ...


Glad to see there's no non-compete.

 

[fashionista-ta]

hollywoodreporter

I was curious about what happened, and found this ...


I was also interested to read the other day that when Alber started, Lanvin had 15 stockists, which was up to 400+ in recent years. Also that in 2010, Lanvin had the highest year-over-year growth in the entire luxury industry.

French Court Reaches Decision in Lanvin Case

The French Court has ruled in favor of Lanvin's works council on the basis that the management's case against them holds no water.

Lanvin Resort
AP Images

December 16, 2015 Sam Reed
In the case of Lanvin's management versus its works council, the French Court has ruled in favor of the council, WWD reports. Management has been asked to pay 3,000 euros (roughly $3,000 at current exchange) in damages and legal fees.
Tensions between the French fashion house's management and the brand's works council hit an all-time high following beloved designer Alber Elbaz's abrupt dismissal. Worried about the company's state of affairs, distraught employees on the council began investigating the particulars of Elbaz's firing and questioning the state of the brand's financial affairs.


Consequentially, Lanvin management suspended the company's email and message boards, arguing that they were being used to send "disparaging" messages about management's judgment.
Ultimately, the court decided that there was not enough legal merit to warrant a decision. As Johannes Sultan of management's legal defense put it, "The court has decided that it has no jurisdiction to decide in the matter. ... To use football terms, this match has ended 0-to-0.”
On the other hand, lawyer Isabelle Schucké-Niel, who represented the works council, disagreed: "This is not a draw. This is a victory for the works council, which never caused any trouble within the company, neither by e-mail nor via its messaging boards. What the judge said is: ‘There is no trouble, no urgency. Stop it.’ ”

It sounds like management shut down the entire e-mail system? If so, how nuts is that?

Also, when you're paying the damages and expenses, let's be real: it wasn't a draw--you lost.

 

[Littleathquakes]

wow shutting down the e-mail system. that's so dictatorial. They need a good PR firm STAT to clean up this mess.

 

[Fashionstuff]

wow shutting down the e-mail system. that's so dictatorial. They need a good PR firm STAT to clean up this mess.

Incredible! Shutting down the e-mail system, it's happend not every day.

I note that some famous online shops are selling Lanvin items for very cheap prices.
Lanvin everywhere for 1/3 of original price, it seems they want sell the items from Alber Elbaz collections.
( Balmain made only 30 % and they started only last Wednesday, Gucci till now is not in Sale)

Interesting who will replace Elbaz? any idea?

 

[fashionista-ta]

I haven't noticed sale prices being out of the norm, but feel free to name names--I could use a good bargain!