Alber Elbaz - Designer

What is the relation between running out of ideas creatively (being burnt as a designer) and having a huge team behind? :blink: Both things coexist. In fact, they always coexist, because every house has a huge team and many houses have a burnt designer who is no longer relevant.


Explain... Cause that would mean that having a huge team will make you fresh, relevant and full of ideas no matter what, while the reality is that a fashion brand has to have a great leader for that. And Alber's time as a relevant designer is long gone. I can't even remember the last time he did something fresh.

I mean burnt out in terms of mental stress, physical stress... not measuring things by whether or not YOU think a collection is fresh .

And no, not all houses have huge teams. Some have tiny tiny teams (2-3) people. And these houses, with much smaller budgets, are incredibly more stressful.
 
So sad but hopefully he's going to a bigger better house. It would be a shame for him to retire while other designers continue to pollute with their crappy expendable clothes. He brought so much joy and life to a dead label.
 
Alber said no to Dior when Galliano was fired. He said he had so much respect for Shay Lan Wang to leave Lanvin in the lurch, so I doubt he will move to Dior. It would feel... wrong.

Official statement from Alber says that his departure was Wang's decision, slash he was fired. Not sure there would be much respect involved right now.
 
Alber is an emotional designer not an opportunist.
I doubt he will go to Dior, because he was railing against fast fashion and Dior epitomizes that. I think he will move on to other pursuits.
The only designer who never seems to burn out, is Mr Karl Lagerfeld. I have to hand it to him , he keeps churning out interesting collections each year. I think Alber is a brilliant designer but after 2008, his collections were spotty and redundant.

I hope Hedi Slimane leaves with his wack *** clothes. Now that would be something to celebrate.

Theysekens might take over at Lanvin. But at the same time he bankrupted Rochas and Ricci , so I don't know lol.

Aesthetically though he is the best fit at Lavnin.
If he can churn out clothes like this:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/nina-ricci
 
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^^I don't think it's fair to place the entirety of the blame on Olivier for the lack of success at Ricci and Rochas. I think in both cases it probably wasn't ever a good match between the creative and the business ends - if I recall, Rochas was owned by a home goods/toiletries conglomerate with Rochas being their only fashion brand - clearly they didn't know what to do with a talent like Olivier. And at Ricci, they probably were just too small of an operation to really be supporting financially Olivier's freedom. Look where Ricci is now - they obviously want something completely different from what Olivier has to offer.

But REGARDLESS - I do hope Olivier ends up at Dior OR Lanvin! The man needs a job! A true poet! I miss his voice in the fashion conversation.

Anyway...this is another interesting development, Alber no longer at Lanvin! Crazy! Well...change is good. He's clearly not been in top form the last couple years, and I'm glad that both the brand and Alber get the chance to refresh.
 
"... and it is widely believed that the label needs additional support — such as that offered by a major luxury group..."

I wouldn't be surprised if Lanvin is bought by LVMH and then They start everything from scratch à la Saint Laurent with Raf at the helm.
 
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:shock: Surprised but when looking at his collections the last few years I'm not surprised.
Fashion is becoming a real mess atm. Seems like the big bosses are effectually burning out their designers.
 
I'm extremely surprised at this. Alber at Lanvin was a perfect combination, his shows were always the best despite his collections being a bit repetitive. I hope he does go to Dior, I am sure he can turn that brand around.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if Lanvin is bought by LVMH and then They start everything from scratch à la Saint Laurent with Raf at the helm.
But Lanvin had its own moment of minimalism in the late 90s so I hope they won't do that for the brand again. They need someone with strong identity, because Alber IS Lanvin.
Really, I don't know what to say and I don't know what to think about Lanvin now. It's smaller than Dior so it shouldn't leave its designer sucked out of creativity. But at the same time it was Alber who invented resort and pre-fall thing.
 
Jeez. Fashion really is in a dark place right now. Lanvin was actually one of my favorite shows for both womenswear and menswear. Say what you will about Alber getting repetitive, but you could say the same thing for Karl at Chanel.

I think aesthetically, he would work wonders for Dior. But that house in its current form is the epitome of valuing business over creativity. And that's definitely what Alber is trying to avoid, I think.
 
Lanvin has been off the radar for quite a few years now and the article stated that sales are down so it's obvious that something isn't working. However, Alber will take his magic with him wherever he goes. It just proves that big name houses such as Balenciaga, Pucci, Lanvin, Givenchy, etc..... are nothing without their creative dorectors. He'll find a job, but the question is where?
 
that wang person sounds like crap tbh...

I don't think he ever had a bad collection, rushed and insipid yes (poor management explains a lot now) but it was always nice to see. I feel bad for him, but then the company sounds like had been a pain in the a*s, whoever thinks money and endless resources to materialize creative ideas compensates for work stress, tension and often harassment, it does not, maybe if people weren't so comformist, we'd actually have some others creating meaningful things more often and less junk that only looks good...
 
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Jeez. Fashion really is in a dark place right now. Lanvin was actually one of my favorite shows for both womenswear and menswear. Say what you will about Alber getting repetitive, but you could say the same thing for Karl at Chanel.

And... what does that change? He is less repetitive because Karl is repetitive? :blink: He was repetitive and boring for 5 years. We all love what he did at Lanvin as a whole but that's the reality. And if there are other boring brands that doesn't make Lanvin less boring. And then you'll say: I didn't care if it was boring, I liked it. Yes, you can like it even if it was boring, but that doesn't make it less boring. I don't really know why people in the fashion spot (not talking about you, Orchidee, just in general) are like this with designers, editors and everybody. They like someone and can't say what he/she does wrong. It's just irritating.


I mean burnt out in terms of mental stress, physical stress... not measuring things by whether or not YOU think a collection is fresh .

And no, not all houses have huge teams. Some have tiny tiny teams (2-3) people. And these houses, with much smaller budgets, are incredibly more stressful.

But that's something personal and you can't know for sure. It's private. I judge their collections, not their mental stress. And it's not me, it's objective. If you've seen the same collection 15 times it's not fresh. And Lanvin hype went downhill the last few years.

And what bluechip brand has a team of two people? The smallest designer brand I've worked for had 3-4 and it was veeery small, they didn't even do pre-collections.


Official statement from Alber says that his departure was Wang's decision, slash he was fired. Not sure there would be much respect involved right now.

Really? Where did you read it? Could you post it, please? It actually looks like they wanted to make things different. Plus, it's very strange that this is happening a week after Raf's departure.


And it's true that he will contradict himself if he goes to Dior. It's the total opposite of what he's been defending. But I think every designer wants to design for Chanel or Dior. Those are the crowns of fashion design. It's a very desired job. You work for Lanvin, you are great, do amazing collections... Yet you'll be remembered the same way Antonio Cánovas is remembered today. Once you've designed for Dior you enter the fashion Olympus and your name gets engraved in gold letters in the pages of fashion history... So I sort of understand him. And he is one of the three best options (Ghesquière, Olivier and him).

that wang person sounds like crap tbh...
Integrity is now crap. OK. Wang might not be the best business woman (she didn't do it that bad, though, look at Lanvin now and look at what it was...), but she let Alber do whatever he wanted to do and he has always (till now) been beyond grateful to her. In fact, she saved him. So... she's not crap at all. :blink:

I also like private owns brands... and there's nothing wrong with that.
 
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It sounds like Alber was let go, if so its not really a surprise the past few years as many on here have said were stale. Honestly I don't see how he can go to Dior with all the work that would entail, since every interview he has given, especially recently, he has complained about the pace of fashion and the amount of collections that brands need to produce, at Dior it would be at least double what he's been used to, I just don't see it happening.
 
So he was actually dismissed... Weeeeird.


The complete statement, signed by Elbaz, reads:

"At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder, I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years; express my affection to all my wonderful colleagues in the Lanvin ateliers who accompanied me, and who enriched and supported my work. Together we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury fashion houses.

"I also wish to express my profound and deepest gratitude to all of the clients and friends, to the French and international press and to all those business partners who collaborated with Lanvin, providing us with support since 2001."

"I wish the house of Lanvin the future it deserves among the best French luxury brands, and hope that it finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward."

http://www.businessoffashion.com/
 
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TBH I think this is quite sad news, cause thanks to his F/W 2008 collection I got interested in fashion. But I understand his decision and i'm excited to see him exploring his enormous amount of talent at another house.

Part of me would love to see Raf and Alber switch places but I don't see it happening. Raf might end up at Lanvin though. Mutterlein said "you'll never guess where he's headed" and tbh nobody expect Alber to leave Lanvin.
 
Hmmm....
After all, i think that a designer must leave the house he is working for after 10 years. Galliano had 10 fantastic years at Dior and then, it started to become boring. Nicolas had 15 years of greatness at Balenciaga (He really became a star after his spring 2001 show). Tom left Gucci at the right time after 10 years (his 2 last collections weren't his best)....etc.

Designers shouldn't capture a position for too long. Lagerfeld at Chanel & Fendi is another thing. I believe loyalty and trust plays a huge part of his relationship with the Weirthemer and at Fendi...well he created their logo and played a huge part when B.A. wanted to buy the house.

I don't understand when people are saying "he can't do Dior". I mean, this is not Altuzarra, Jason Wu or Jacquemus. We are talking about a designer who worked with Beene and YSL. He is totally skilled to do anything.


The Lanvin sample sale!It's going to be a total madness...
 
I already feel sorry for fashionista-ta, this might force you to buy his entire last collection? :wink:


LOL :heart: I will definitely not be buying any of the pieces with strings hanging off, but I'm really sad to hear this news and will be thinking about what to buy. I guess now we know why this last collection felt uninspired. I don't know if he's the guy for a much bigger machine like Dior ... while it worked, Lanvin was the perfect fit for him. But certainly at Dior he wouldn't have his current frustration re investment, though I don't think that's the only issue behind the loss. He dislikes vacations--which he shouldn't--so I suspect that means he's not going to decamp to the beach permanently. I hope!
 
No words on Lucas Ossendrijver? Is he leaving too?

Lanvin was really great with clothes. One of the few big fashion house where the clothes weren't outrageously expensive.

I don't really know who can take over Lanvin.


I agree about the prices--for women's. I don't know anything about their menswear. There were some items priced higher, and the reason was always clear (such as materials). Some houses (like, say, Givenchy) have everything priced in the stratosphere. That hasn't been the case with Lanvin.
 

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