All About Pattern Makers (& Pattern Cutters)

[gius]

not sure if anyone answered my question.. muxu are you saying basically that to study pattern cutting more in depth means to be able to create patterns that fit better? what i have been taught, if you do all the measurements correctly you will always get the perfect fit (or at least one with minor adjustments). i have never had a problem with the patterns i've been taught, they always fit (i've just been fitting mannequins though.)

i just mean if you look at many of the designers' collections, most of it is based on the "basic patterns". you just alter them, play around with them, the techniques are all there in the basics...
so maybe to do it in depth it just means to do some experimenting of your own i'm asking because i've finished a basic drafting course but there is advanced drafting, but i was told we learn all the basics so we should be able to draft anything after doing the basic course. i don't know what else there would be in the 'advanced' section --i heard actually it is just a continuation and maybe it is just a practice session really... The only thing i haven't figured out yet, is kimono sleeve and cape,
from the basic patterns i know now. Still thinking though...

going a bit off-topic but one thing i have learned from one day being around pattern makers and another day being around seamstresses, it's that a pattern maker will know how to create effects with patterns, fabrics.. but a seamstress/tailor is super mandatory and will know for example trims and bindings that can enhance a design or invisible details that will hold that shape or pleat of a garment.. Really if i hadn't learnt how to sew, i wouldn't know what to do with all the patterns i've been taught this year and there are new design ideas that come to me only because i am learning how to sew.

 

[daniellat]

Actually the fit is the thing that make patternmakers go crazy. Every designer-design has a different vision of how clothes need to fit their clients body. Most of the patterns will fit a mannequin because they have a proportioned body. us humans not really, it gets trickier when working with different ethnicities or body types.

A patternmaker must know how to work a pattern so it gives the body a certain shape, to enhance it or hide the flaws. Another thing to consider is what type of clothing you are makign and the fabrics to use. sportswear needs fit experts since clothing can affect in a big way the athletes performance. And so other types of clothing, always have in mind how the finished garment is going to be wore, that pretty much sets what fabric to use and how adjustments should be done, what gius said its tue, once you know all the basic patterns youll be able to modify them to create and infinite number of patterns.

 

[daniellat]

Oh i remember now that i have lots of patterns scanned on my computer. Are these what you were looking for gius?

 

[gius]

i see, that makes sense. ^^ so it's not exactly about it fitting a person perfectly, rather fitting the person in a way that suits the wearer.. according to the design.
so regarding the cape..
it might be this pattern creates an A-line shape
but you would have to know where to edit the pattern, to create a straighter silhouette
i think i will start coming across these 'problems' more and more as i begin actually making fashion designs.



thanks so much for the new patterns!
the cape is so simple XD i will copy these to my books
i already started my advanced drafting lessons and my instructor told me what i was looking for was not kimono but dolman sleeve and that became the first lesson that week
i see the kimono is done quite differently... we will learn that this coming Monday

 

[gius]

.

here is some example pricing i found on nancysgonegreen.com
article's named Tailoring 101 , written by "Naomi"

Here is a list of the most common jacket alterations, and the prices you might expect to pay. The prices I’ve listed are what you are likely to see in an urban area, and may be a little bit less elsewhere…

• Remove shoulder pads (usually without a tailor)
• Take in the shoulder seams — $30
• Take in the length of the sleeves — $20
• Extend the length of the sleeves — $20 plus cost of materials
• Take in the width of the sleeves — $25
• Take in the at the bust — $35
• Take in at the waist — $35
• Take in the length of the jacket — $35
• Extend the length of the jacket — $35 plus cost of materials
• Add buttons — $5 plus cost of buttons
• Replace zipper — $20 – $25

**For leather jackets, an additional cost is often added because special machinery is required

 

[Sirop Pourpre]

I personally find Pattern Making demands a fair bit of logical brainstorming.
I can spend hours and hours trying to figure out a pattern for an interesting garment I may have seen or an illustrated design and working out the details that lend it its exact shape, contour and fall.
I love complex architectural and geometric shapes that weave in and out and my designs tend to reflect that strongly which requires me to spend that extra bit of time figuring out where to slash, take in, blend and pivot. Hehe, it gets frustrating at times but working it out in your head and then on paper is tremendously satisfying. Although, as mentioned before a combination of patternmaking and moulage(draping) aids the creative process best.

Then again the basic blocks that you use for creating your pattern often determine the kind of fit the finished pattern will result in. Different design houses may have slight differences in the blocks they use according to the fits they want. Ofcourse, your skills improve with time and you know better how to adjust and fit your patterns, and spend less timeleafing through pages of Helen Joseph Armstrong which by the way, is excellent to begin with and I owe a lot of my basics to.

Its a little disappointing and restricting that most designers in my country choose to experiment with embellishments and fabric alone rather than shapes,silhouettes and patterns since the largely traditional populace is a little slow and reluctant on the bold/daring fashion uptake.

Yes, I'm aware that was a looong first post and applaud your attempts to have sat through it without dozing off. More to follow as and when my rogue brainfingers take over the keyboard.

 

[BetteT]

Welcome to the Fashion Spot, Sirop!

 

[gius]

glad to have you on the forums, sirop pourpre!

perfecting the fit, the design, with the patterns... it's a great challenge,
for me, especially for clients who want made-to-measure.
i find it interesting discovering and to work for very particular body types.

time is a huge factor in this line though
which is another thing to tackle. i have to work fast and well

 

[Sirop Pourpre]

Danke schön BetteT and Gius. Always a pleasure to be part of an interesting conversation.

Gotta agree about efficient time management though, its something I've had to learn the hard way. My profs in college would constantly remind us and stress on its importance. So much so, late submissions were often not accepted or marked with lower grades. But that applies to almost every aspect and stage of the design process. Anything last minute and rushed can results in clumsy errors that WILL be frowned upon when you're working in a highly professional environment. Specially within the confines of a time-line and there's clients, vendors, suppliers and a gazillion other things besides to keep track of or work in tandem with.

 

[fashion tyger]

Pattern Makers rates

Hello,

I have a very general question. If I had a design I wanted to produce and needed a pattern maker how much would I expect to pay?

I know there are a lot of variables so let's say...

A very complicated gown?

A Leather Jacket?

A pair of Jeans?

Also let's say the pattern maker is located in the garment district in Manhattan.

This is not something that I actually want to accomplish I just need some very general answers for a discussion I'm having.

A "between this price and this price" would be great. I do realize that there a so many factors and questions the pattern maker would need answered to actually accomplish there task but I just need a very general answer from someone who has more knowledge in this subject than me.

Thank You so much in advance for your input fashionspoters!

 

[Ayisha1978]

I never thought of that... Math! Can fashion and math co-exist? But... But... I suck at math

Anyway, I say don't choose a career based on what's currently more in demand (trends do change- especially in fashion). Go for what's in your gut, what drives you and gives you pleasure, because ultimately no matter what you decide, if you want to succeed, you'll face many challenges, responsibilities, and just plain ol work... in such a competitive industry, you must be motivated beyond money.

I'm terrible at math too but I taught myself pattern making using Connie AMaden Crawfords book Patternmaking made easy, don't let poor math skills deter you. If you want to make the clothes you design and you have to use patternmaking to do it, you'll see that the math isn't really a road block, it may still be something you'd rather not deal with when you're grading, but it's mostly geometry type math, you know shapes. Just write your numbers down when you measure, don't leave anything to memory, and just re-check your measurements ever so often, make and keep charts of standard measurements and so on. Aside from that once you get started really drafting you'll realize the 'math' isn't really that much of a problem.