All About Pattern Makers (& Pattern Cutters)

[MoDeLwAnaBe]

thank you all so much for your help-hugs and kisses and have a fashionistic day and night

 

[Elegance.Is.Refusal.]

^I'm very curious to what you mean by it's quite hard to do... You basically need a basic block to form the rest of your designs, and it is just about accurate measurements. After that is where it gets complex maybe (the darts and so on). Is t his what you mean?

im not calling it impossible but its easier if there is someone to show you how to add or remove darts, move darts and generally do more complicated shapes than just making something longer or shorter or wider for example.

alot of the alterations are very simple to do as they are just an extention of the pattern. If you want to do abit more than just simple patterns then someone showing you will make it alot easier. its not all about the measurements its more about the logic behind it and if your not experienced in clothes making and dont understand the construction of clothes it can make it more difficult to learn. i just supose it depends upon at which level you are at.


and as for basic blocks there is only so many you can store unless you want a block for every bit of clothing possible. for example at the moment i am making a dress and im currently drafting the pattern i've used a basic t-shirt block a basic fitted skirt block put together to form a dress i removed the darts from the skirt block, i then changed the neckline and dropped the back of it, and im flaring out the bottom of the dress to make it into a puffball skirt. which i wouldnt expect someone learning on their own to find easy and the dress shape im going for is very basic.

 

[MoDeLwAnaBe]

im not calling it impossible but its easier if there is someone to show you how to add or remove darts, move darts and generally do more complicated shapes than just making something longer or shorter or wider for example.

alot of the alterations are very simple to do as they are just an extention of the pattern. If you want to do abit more than just simple patterns then someone showing you will make it alot easier. its not all about the measurements its more about the logic behind it and if your not experienced in clothes making and dont understand the construction of clothes it can make it more difficult to learn. i just supose it depends upon at which level you are at.


and as for basic blocks there is only so many you can store unless you want a block for every bit of clothing possible. for example at the moment i am making a dress and im currently drafting the pattern i've used a basic t-shirt block a basic fitted skirt block put together to form a dress i removed the darts from the skirt block, i then changed the neckline and dropped the back of it, and im flaring out the bottom of the dress to make it into a puffball skirt. which i wouldnt expect someone learning on their own to find easy and the dress shape im going for is very basic.

i would love to see the dresss...yea maybe i will find someone to teach me... i was going to work with this italian designer but i moved recently and i live an hour from her city --it was great though got to call her up i guess-but good luck to you on your dress

 

[Elegance.Is.Refusal.]

i'll take a picture of the draft im working on so you get an idea of the things you do to it.

its not finised since i had to trace off the lining first then alter it again for the main dress.

 

[MoDeLwAnaBe]

how is the dress????im curious tooo find out-anyways great luck in all you do hun!

 

[rockitgirl]

Pattern Makers

Hey how many of us are there on here? Pattern making is a really important part of fashion design but in my experience the vast majority of pattern makers are older than the average age on this website. Apparently it's not thought of as glamourous or something but I LOVE IT.

Am I the only one?

 

[fourboltmain]

I loved my pattern making classes. I took a couple digital ones too, I was good at coming up with all kinds of f#cked up ideas. Being a closet math nerd helped too. I just wish I had saved all my files from the damn class.

I want to do more, but I got way too much on my plate now.

 

[BetteT]

I just merged this thread with some related material ... to get it all into one thread.

And reading the previous posts, maybe someone can answer my question, please?

Is a pattern maker different from a pattern cutter? I would think so ... wouldn't a pattern maker create the pattern based on a design given to them by the designer? And a cutter ... just cut? Or are they just different names for the same job?

 

[rockitgirl]

Sorry BetteT, I searched and did see this thread but I started a new one because this thread is a discussion about fashion designers vs pattern makers. I'm not looking for a discussion about that or about what a pattern maker is, I was just trying to see if there are any active members on the forum who are pattern makers. It's okay that you merged it I guess but I fear now anyone who is a pattern maker and has already seen this thread will not bother reading it again and see that I am looking for them.

As for your question, in my experience the terms are used interchangeably...Pattern Cutter tends to be used more in custom menswear and couture dressmaking because they literally cut the pattern out whereas in ready to wear they tend to draft it and a machine cuts it. But they are the same thing. Check out http://www.englishcut.com This is a Savile Row tailor and he uses the term Cutter whereas Kathleen of http://www.fashion-incubator.com uses the term Pattern Maker.

 

[superbeautiful]

From what I hear patternmakers make good money. I read an article on the patternmaker for Calvin Klein, I beleive, and other designers and he made close to $200K a year and said the average pay for a patternmaker is around $150K. The article was also 5 or 6 years old so you can only imagine that the salary has gone up. Patternmakers are in demand, mainly because a lot of designers nowadays only know how to design and not necessarily construction.
I would also think that you would really need to be a hands on person and very precise to be a patternmaker. Innovation and a good sense of design would also count because at times that actual garments ends up being totally different than the sketch. Usually the patternmaker works with the designer and discuss the sketch and then research fabrics and details by themselves. It doesn't sound like an easy job, what job isn't?

 

[gius]

rockitgirl, kathleen fasanel for me is one that stood out as a pattern maker in the forums... i'm sure there are more, since many study/finished studying design

mm.. i'm not a pro, but i was elected recently to create the patterns for this place i work at..

they are very simple sculptural pieces , and we'll also start on furnishings later for the fall. what i learned in clothing pattern-making was very useful since i am also making 'body' forms
but i find it's a lot of maths, using rulers, and common sense.. but definitely needs dedication and a ton of patience!

i don't quite understand this separation you sound like you're feeling of pattern makers (in your post)
when i am designing, it's the patterns i'm working with.. and also the drawings/designs.. back and forth... i can't see them being done separately... There would definitely be some kind of dynamic lost if it was separate...

 

[educo]

I just merged this thread with some related material ... to get it all into one thread.

And reading the previous posts, maybe someone can answer my question, please?

Is a pattern maker different from a pattern cutter? I would think so ... wouldn't a pattern maker create the pattern based on a design given to them by the designer? And a cutter ... just cut? Or are they just different names for the same job?

No there isn't a difference. We in the US called them Patternmakers. UK refers them as Patterncutters.

 

[rockitgirl]

Gius:

I don't know who the separation comment was directed at...I hope not me...? If you were referring to the comment about pattern makers vs designers you do not see the difference because you work with the patterns...well of course! But in big design houses the designer does not work with the patterns.

Pattern Makers do not make $150K on average. I know for a fact that Aritzia has several pattern makers (when I was in there I saw about 5 and who knows who was not at their desk) and I can garauntee you they do not make that much money. Those high salaries would be for the lead pattern maker at a huge brand like Calvin Klein just like the designers get paid more but many designers only earn $30K if they are working at small places.

Patternmakers are in demand, yes, because pattern making is not taught in depth and so there are less people with the skills. It is actually a bit sad I think that things are going by way of computerized pattern making. Now that there are computer programs your skills do not need to be as fine tuned and so a lot of smaller companies are producing less refined patterns for their products. But I know many companies still require you to have excellent paper pattern making skills first so that you truly understand what the CAD program is doing and can make fine adjustments based on your experience vs accepting what the program spits out. (at Aritzia for example I was told their pattern makers have on average 18 years experience and ALL spent at least 10 years on paper...most of the women were in their late 30's and were of an asian decent)

 

[BetteT]

Sorry BetteT, I searched and did see this thread but I started a new one because this thread is a discussion about fashion designers vs pattern makers. I'm not looking for a discussion about that or about what a pattern maker is, I was just trying to see if there are any active members on the forum who are pattern makers. It's okay that you merged it I guess but I fear now anyone who is a pattern maker and has already seen this thread will not bother reading it again and see that I am looking for them.

Actually, we find that people will jump in again if they see that the thread about their speciality/occupation has been bumped and will answer your question, if they are here. Then if you wish to network with them, you may PM them. Combining it all in one place is the tFS way ... so that people interested in the topic can find all the info and all the pros all in one spot. Otherwise we end up with more than 10 times the threads and the information gets spread out all over the place. Hope you understand.

 

[declan_steed]

No, patternmakers do not make more than 6 figures. Now, if they are also managing production for clients they might earn a commission for that, too. But, I don't know any full-time patternmakers earning this much.

 

[Sidewalk_Snob]

I'm currently doing pattern cutting. But my course involves designing as well so when I graduate I will hopefully have the best of both as I will be a designer AND pattern cutter

 

[gius]

studying more pattern making

Patternmakers are in demand, yes, because pattern making is not taught in depth and so there are less people with the skills.

would love to know how to learn pattern making 'in depth'
if you have learned to do all the basics,
the basic bodices (and certain specifications, like one for a person with swayback and so on)
basic kinds of sleeves
basic trousers
basic skirts

what else is there to learn?
would all patterns be based on all of these basic patterns...

i can only thinking of draping, where you create a pattern out of draping fabric on a form.

 

[MUXU]

^i guess when talking about in depth, i guess it involves couture cutting and bespoke cutting. in bespoke, the best cutters can of course cut a suit and fit a person fantastically. in couture im guessing a good cutter can come up with new and innovative ways to cut and create shapes. i do also want to understand how is hundred pounds akira trousers different from a primark trouser in terms of cut. i know akira trousers will most likely fit a lot better than primark but how do i cut the trousers to get a better fit?

speaking of the debate on fashion designer vs pattern maker/cutter. personally i think a designer should understand and be able to play both roles. but of course if the person is a designer, i would think he/she would be better at designing than pattern making.
anyways, the two designers, balenciaga and vionnet i admire greatly are fantastic cutters as well designers. my personal belief is, in order to make great designs, one understands good pattern cutting. as well as tailoring of course...but less im guessing. let's not forget the tailors and seamstresses!

 

[SGaspar]

Hey how many of us are there on here? Pattern making is a really important part of fashion design but in my experience the vast majority of pattern makers are older than the average age on this website. Apparently it's not thought of as glamourous or something but I LOVE IT.

Am I the only one?

I think that the fashion world only has two glamorous "sides" to it:

1. Parties of course xD
2. What people sitting in a show get to see.

I think fashion is not glamorous at all. Going to sleep at 5am or not sleeping at all is not glamorous xD, getting down and dirty with the fabrics, patterns, yarn, paint, machines and all that stuff doesn't tend to be very glamorous xD, and then you have the backstage of the shows, which is always a mess, so I think fashion is really not a glamorous thing haha

 

[SGaspar]

^i guess when talking about in depth, i guess it involves couture cutting and bespoke cutting. in bespoke, the best cutters can of course cut a suit and fit a person fantastically. in couture im guessing a good cutter can come up with new and innovative ways to cut and create shapes. i do also want to understand how is hundred pounds akira trousers different from a primark trouser in terms of cut. i know akira trousers will most likely fit a lot better than primark but how do i cut the trousers to get a better fit?

speaking of the debate on fashion designer vs pattern maker/cutter. personally i think a designer should understand and be able to play both roles. but of course if the person is a designer, i would think he/she would be better at designing than pattern making.
anyways, the two designers, balenciaga and vionnet i admire greatly are fantastic cutters as well designers. my personal belief is, in order to make great designs, one understands good pattern cutting. as well as tailoring of course...but less im guessing. let's not forget the tailors and seamstresses!

I think that in order to be a great fashion designer you have to be able to make a pattern, cut it and then sew it. And you need all that knowledge because how do you expect to know when something in the pattern is wrong if you don't know anything about patterns, that's why I think a fashion designer HAS to know a lot about everything. And also a great pattern maker/seamstress/seamster/tailor/etc., is always going to be needed in order to make great clothes.

I would think that pattern makers and cutters are more needed than a designer because imagine that 1000 students graduate per year in a country, then how many people do you need to make the clothes?