Altuzarra F/W 2022.23 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

Paco Rabanne lite (SS 2022 and FW 2020) with the split on left side so people know this is an altuzarra collection.

 

[RaisinBoy]

darling, turn the leaf and take a break. a long break

 

[avonlea002]

Definitely a highlight of NYFW. He still needs to learn how to edit though. There are few great ideas which would make a great collection if developed further. 40th look is my favorite, so chic.

 

[reese06]

Something about it feels very somber and depressing for me.

It also feels like 3 separate collections with each one being derivative of another designer. There's nothing really to see here.

 

[liberty33r1b]

tragic what is this?

 

[helmutnotdead]

the bar is so low at New York that this is coming out like a pleasant surprise. It looks fashionable without looking like a fool. Some of the textures are truly good.

There's something really Karl Templer-ish in the styling because I look at the collection and I can't avoid to think of Sacai or even Zara.

 

[gossiping]

i thought it was his best show in years

loved it. each time a new look came out i was just like "wow that's beautiful" !

 

[perhydrol]

It's such a strange mix of everything in one collection but I somehow like it. Some of the looks are actually classic Altuzarra, some are quite Paco Rabanne-ish (as last season was based on Natacha Ramsay Levi's aesthetic). However, it leaves a nice impression.

The only thing I truly dislike here is the final look on Gigi. It doesn't make any sense and you can tell that she didn't feel comfortable.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There's a lot of stuff going on. I'm indifferent to the paillettes at the end, the ear flap beanies and the two consecutive pleated leather/pleather looks because they feel a bit gimmicky. But I actually don't mind this and what is presented is styled rather well as other's have said.

Strangely, I'm taken by the use of tie-dye. They have a Rorschach ink blot effect mixed with an insect shell or animal print that I find enjoyable.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I can appreciate the risk he took with the prints. Perhaps questionable, but I love a good risk-taker, so he gets some praise from me on that front.

I wouldn’t say he accomplished anything here besides the fact that he delivered a fairly solid showing.

It wouldn’t surprise me if he visited the latest exhibit at the Met that highlights American fashion, I am sure he sent his assistants over for some “inspiration”. From the lines down to the paillette’s, the similarities are very similar to the works on display at the Met.

While his recent return to the NYFW schedule is a welcome one, I find it remarkable how these young American designers go to Paris and return with notable improvements in their work. You can tell it is more polished than his showings during the early years of his career. It just goes to show you how despite the “globalization of fashion”, Europe still fosters talent like no other.

 

[Bugsy]

I really like this. They did a good job.

 

[Phuel]

I can appreciate the risk he took with the prints. Perhaps questionable, but I love a good risk-taker, so he gets some praise from me on that front.

I wouldn’t say he accomplished anything here besides the fact that he delivered a fairly solid showing.

It wouldn’t surprise me if he visited the latest exhibit at the Met that highlights American fashion, I am sure he sent his assistants over for some “inspiration”. From the lines down to the paillette’s, the similarities are very similar to the works on display at the Met.

While his recent return to the NYFW schedule is a welcome one, I find it remarkable how these young American designers go to Paris and return with notable improvements in their work. You can tell it is more polished than his showings during the early years of his career. It just goes to show you how despite the “globalization of fashion”, Europe still fosters talent like no other.

Good point. His clothes no longer look so cumbersome, like they’re made of upholstery and carpeting material. Still, no one will blink an eye should he never design again. (…And my god— why do these so-called stylists can’t seem to understand that styling bigger women is not the same as styling a 5’11”/size 2 women. Paloma and Precious look like they’re wrapped meat. If one must cast them, give them some structure, some support for definition. It’s a show— they need to look elevated, not like they’re working from home.)

Altuzarra/Proenza/Philip Lim and their kind are all in the same class of high-end dressmakers for women; Their stuff always reminds everyone of designs already shown by others (and done better), but accessible and more department-store wearable. They’re all inoffensive and safe, and no one will care nor miss any of this if they never designed again. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. I never get why people expect anything more from him other then high-end merchandise. Good form and any brand that’s isn’t a conglomerate that’s able to remain in business these days, but this all look just like anything else that’s already out there.

 

[Ruito]

Perhaps a little bit more over-the-place than last season's, lacks a little bit of coherence but I liked it. Welcome back to New York!

 

[Serend1pity]

I liked most pieces and there were some amazing standouts but some are plain bad like paloma’s first look especially that final look on Gigi the hair and makeup also did her no favours doesn’t have the bone structure to pull it off.