Altuzarra S/S 11 New York

[LabelWhore4]

This is a collection of extremes to me. Some of the jackets, skirts, and dresses look exceptional. Everything else looks unbelievably amateur, even the shoes. In spite of all that I am still excited to see him grow as a designer.

 

[Donatello89]

i just LOVE it !!!!! architectural outlines are perfect, colors are cool and classy, materials are perfect too !!!!! amazing work

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Just watched the show - I love it all apart from the final dresses - they look really cheap and naff in motion.

 

[educo]

i. don't. even. know. what. to. say.

This is the reason a proper education in fashion design is needed. Not a "stint" at Givenchy where who really knows what was his role there.

Last season, he basically copied Tom ford. This season, he has gone beyond the edge of reason and there is nothing to back him up.

who told him that this was good enough to show???

I'm sorry money and connections do know buy you a well designed collection.

 

[Spike413]

There are some pieces that I actually like (the python jacket with the plain tank and white pants, the patchwork skin dress on Jac) but most of this just looks way too overwrought. It's as if you can actually see the labored thinking, and that's never a good thing. On top of that, as mikeijames already pointed out, there are fit issues left and right. As derivative as his last collection was it still looked very well done and fit properly. Seems like he let his ideas override his abilities with this collection, and the result looks a little cheap.

I do like the idea of the conical busts, but I liked them a lot more when Helmut Lang did them.

style.com

 

[get fashion]

He only copies: the last season Gucci, and this one, Balenciaga, i really don't understand why everybody loves him!

 

[almudena]

I find most of the looks plainly and simply horrific, all the first part with the white satin and then the snakeskin patches looks so incredibly cheap. Same goes for the final dresses. A few of the darker looks around the middle of the show are a bit better I guess...
Worse of it all is how unflattering all these clothes are, perhaps it's because of the poor fit as it has been mentioned before, though I'm not entirely convinced this is the only issue here.

 

[educo]

There are some pieces that I actually like (the python jacket with the plain tank and white pants, the patchwork skin dress on Jac) but most of this just looks way too overwrought. It's as if you can actually see the labored thinking, and that's never a good thing. On top of that, as mikeijames already pointed out, there are fit issues left and right. As derivative as his last collection was it still looked very well done and fit properly. Seems like he let his ideas override his abilities with this collection, and the result looks a little cheap.

I do like the idea of the conical busts, but I liked them a lot more when Helmut Lang did them.

style.com

I guess my main issue here is that the contrast shapes are so jarring against some of the more fluid silhouettes and fabrics. It was as if he was thinking" How can I make a simple, sexy column dress more interesting?" I wish he answered it with a seaming or cut-out treatment or something instead of plastering random shapes that are not in harmony with the silhouette or fabric properties of the garment.

Spike in your Helmut Lang examples the conical cups are done soo well because it's designed more like lingerie first and then attached to a skirt to make a dress, instead of just planting them "around the bust area" like Joseph did.

They look like bullseyes just floating in space. No wonder they look cockeyed, there is no structure to keep them where they need to be. Proenza is another example of conical bras done right, I LOVED the way they treated them.

Oh and the fit issues, I can't. I just can't.

 

[Spike413]

^ Exactly. I can appreciate the thought that clearly went into making this collection, and those geometric python cutouts actually look well done in these pictures, but the elements don't gel. He threw too much into the mix. And he definitely shot himself in the foot by using so much duchesse satin. It's probably the most unforgiving fabric I can think of.

 

[simple_elegance]

Everything looks ridiculous. Those bust cups, I can't even...

 

[educo]

^ Exactly. I can appreciate the thought that clearly went into making this collection, and those geometric python cutouts actually look well done in these pictures, but the elements don't gel. He threw too much into the mix. And he definitely shot himself in the foot by using so much duchesse satin. It's probably the most unforgiving fabric I can think of.

I just watched his video on The cut blog and he was saying he didn't want to have a reference point (red flag #1) THEN he caught himself and said it was everywhere and nowhere at the same time (red flag #2). Then he finishes off with references from the internet, to techno, to raves, to urban landscapes, to 60's and 70's, and this and this and this (red flag#3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,etc...)

And THAT much duchess satin should only be reserved for the bridal market.

I really don't know how this collection will sell. I mean isn't he only carried by Barney's and barely at that?

 

[Rightguard]

I really don't know how this collection will sell. I mean isn't he only carried by Barney's and barely at that?

I often wonder if some designers forget this. They must be aware that they have to pay their workers and accounts payable.

At the end of the day, they are still running a business and their main goals are to stay in the black and eventually make a profit.

Furthermore, a lot of these young designers are hurting themselves trying to put on these huge shows and to be honest, many are lacking content.

 

[vogue28]

Defiantly not a fan of the weird snake-skin shapes on the dresses. His Spring/Summer show was more appealing and wearable.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

It's all over the place for me. There's too much going on at once and it's not working. The snake skin? Yeah, so not working for me. I only enjoyed the navy blue parts of the collection. I feel like he's too overhyped. He's talented, but not THAT talented.

 

[elle_gb]

Some pieces i find it's very interesting and some not really but anyway I'd love to see his progression. With this collection my anticipation is much more higher for his next one after a mix reviews over his current one.

 

[nexik]

It kind of looks to me as if he's trying too hard, i agree the satin is very unflattering.
It's disappointing as i have really liked his previous work and he's one of the few designers at nyfw i really look forward to but this is just messy, having said that the second half of the collection was much better than the first.

 

[TianSoFine]

And what is that perfect balance between trying too hard and being a total bore? Trying to hard to do what? Be innovative? I think this collection does achieve a good level of innovation. I see some very architectural designs here. Interesting to look at, but also not too loud. Not necissarily on all of them, but I thought the cone-shaped breasts were done quite subtly on some of the pieces.

 

[nexik]

but creating an innovative collection does not necessarily mean creating a good collection, being innovative for the sake of creating something new isn't always a positive thing. anyway what i was trying the get at is the collection just feels a bit forced/contrived, but then again thats just my opinion.

 

[mikeijames]

And what is that perfect balance between trying too hard and being a total bore? Trying to hard to do what? Be innovative? I think this collection does achieve a good level of innovation. I see some very architectural designs here. Interesting to look at, but also not too loud. Not necissarily on all of them, but I thought the cone-shaped breasts were done quite subtly on some of the pieces.

call it the project-runway-ification of fashion, but i think most fashion followers would prefer one exquisitely constructed, perfectly-fitted showcase piece in a collection of well-done basics than a string of ill-executed numbers with only a few ensembles to rescue them. no one doubts his talent, but some of these dresses would invite sneers and jeers if one first saw them on the red carpet or on the street.

 

[gossiping]

well i'm the opposite to you all this grows on me more every day.