While I understand this is a *show* and perhaps not how the end customer of today dresses in Ann Demeulemeester, I feel like I'm looking at costume and not an honest proposition to dress.
Truth be told, we‘ve already seen quite a bit of that, during Sébastien Meunier's time with the house but even traces of it towards the last few collections Ann was formally still designing. The more accessories they piled up on the looks, the less I enjoyed her collections.
I always connected a very specific slouch and drape to Ann's design, not so much the maximalist usage of accessories and leather that give a harsh fetish edge. Olivier Theyskens would have perfectly captured that, especially when I look at the collections he designed for his now-defunct Theory label.