Best & Worst of F/W 2018

[StoneSkipper]

As the season comes to a close, I'd like to ask you all what are the best collections this season - and the worst. Post your rankings and thoughts however you'd like!

It was a rough season, especall in Milan, where everything was so dull. It was very boring, and a lot of collections made a very negative mark for me.

Personally, my Top & Bottom 10 is as follows:

BEST
Yohji Yamamoto
Jacquemus
Chalayan
Christian Wijnants
Loewe
Noir Kei Ninomiya (can't believe this doesn't have a thread here!)
Toga
Jasper Conran
Lemaire
Paco Rabanne
Maison Margiela
Sacai
Sies Marjan
Thom Browne
J.W. Anderson

WORST
Philipp Plein
Nicopanda
Miu Miu
Giambattista Valli
Jil Sander (possibly the most boring collection of the decade)
Iceberg
Jeremy Scott
Christian Dior
Custo Barcelona
Calvin Klein (one of my least favorite collections of the decade)
Burberry (another one of my least favorite collections of the decade)

 

[Sensation]

My top 10 favorite
1. Sies Marjan
2. Delpozo
3. J.W. Anderson
4. Marni
5. Sportmax
6. Prada
7. Louis Vuitton
8. Chanel
9. Sacai
10. Hermès

Biggest disappointments were Calvin Klein, Miu Miu and Burberry.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Vogue just selected Christian Dior as one of the Nine highlights of París.

I don't know what to do: send them an email saying the most horrendous things, laugh or cry.

I'm just DISGUSTED by fashion nowadays.

 

[chanelh]

Vogue just selected Christian Dior as one of the Nine highlights of París.

I don't know what to do: send them an email saying the most horrendous things, laugh or cry.

I'm just DISGUSTED by fashion nowadays.

editors need a paycheck to pay rent and bills just like other ppl, they rely on super clients like Dior to survive in the cruel commercial world.

u can blame the magazine for a bad cover, but u can't blame them trying to please a big client

if you don't like what you are seeing, just stop seeing

 

[thatsfierce]

Best:
- Jacquemus
- Chalayan
- Paco Rabanne
- Sies Marjan
- Dries Van Noten
Worst:
- Tom Ford
- Miu Miu
- Gucci
- Burberry

 

[StoneSkipper]

Vogue just selected Christian Dior as one of the Nine highlights of París.

I don't know what to do: send them an email saying the most horrendous things, laugh or cry.

I'm just DISGUSTED by fashion nowadays.

It was the 2nd best collection of Paris, according to The Impression. I don't believe for a second that fashion is dead... but fashion journalism most certainly is.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Does someone with a BoF account mind posting the top 10 shows article? The preview lists Undercover as their #1 (which isn't surprising since Tim Blanks raved about it on instagram)

I think the main thing I took away from this season is that I'm SO done with Raf & Miuccia's antics. But also I want every designer to stop combining Mens & Womens shows together - it is not fun to slog through 70+ mediocre looks!

Best:

• Thom Browne
• Delpozo
• Sies Marjan
• Lemaire
• Louis Vuitton
• Chanel
• Fendi
• Theyskens

Worst:

• Miu Miu
• Prada
• Burberry
• J'adior!
• Christian Siriano
• Calvin Klein

 

[disco54]

TOP
Sies Marjan
Chloe
Chanel
Givenchy
Loewe
Valentino
Marni
Lacoste
Lemaire
Jacquemus

But Top 5

1.Sies Marjan
2. Loewe
3. Givenchy
4. Jacquemus
5. Chloe


WORST
Pretty much everything else, with Saint Laurent and Gucci taking honors for that.

 

[Valentine27]

In no particular order...

Top :

Louis Vuitton
Jacquemus
Sacai
Givenchy
Sies Marjan
The Row
Chloé
Saint Laurent
Ann Demeulemeester
Agnona

Worst :

Christian Dior
Gucci
Giambattista Valli
Miu Miu
Burberry
Calvin Klein

Disappointments : Haider Ackermann, Max Mara, Stella McCartney, Prada.

 

[dcmaike]

Best: Valentino, Chanel
Also good: Loewe, Dries van Noten, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Olivier Theyskens (without those horrible shoes), Ann Demeulemeester, Lemaire, Jacquemus
Most disappointing: Miu Miu
Worst: Gucci
Worst of the worst: Dior (aka Topshop)

 

[reesewu]

BEST:
1. Louis Vuitton
2. Fendi
3. Loewe
4. Sacai
5. Sies Marjan
6. Yohji Yamamoto
7. Delpozo
8. Maison Margiela
9. Givenchy
10. Chloe

Honorable Mention: Dries Van Noten and Hermes.

WORST:
1. Burberry
2. Calvin Klein
3. Christian Dior
4. Prada
5. Miu Miu
6. Gucci

MEDIOCRE:
Everything but the aforementioned shows. Yes, that's how sad the world of fashion is now.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Does someone with a BoF account mind posting the top 10 shows article?

LONDON, United Kingdom — Another fashion month has drawn to a close. Here, BoF picks the top ten shows of the Autumn/Winter 2018 season.

1. Undercover — designed by Jun Takahashi, PFW
The collection was an extraordinary, fetishistic fashion journey into the depths of the American teen psyche as idealised by a Japanese outsider.

2. Alexander McQueen — designed by Sarah Burton, PFW
The attention to detail, breadth of vision and grasp of the mood of the moment combined to create a fashion force of nature.

3. Sacai — designed by Chitose Abe, PFW
Chitose Abe elevated her mission of hybridisation to new heights, bringing a sly wit that tricked the eye with deliberate mismatches.

4. Gucci — designed by Alessandro Michele, MFW
It was Alessandro Michele’s most confounding excursion yet, one that made connections between the distant past, troubled present and a future in which the designer insists on optimism.

5. Calvin Klein — designed by Raf Simons, NYFW
Raf Simons sounded a hopeful note while once again proving his mastery of an unsettling mood of menace. The threat risk was high.

6. Versace — designed by Donatella Versace, MFW
Colour and drape united the disparate strands on display — tartan armies, African graphism — and suggested new paths of exploration for the house.

7. Balenciaga — designed by Demna Gvasalia, PFW
Demna Gvasalia has a refreshing imperturbable point of view. If this collection is any indication, he will only find more interesting ways to exercise it.

8. Erdem — designed by Erdem Moralioglu, LFW
The designer was practically guaranteed a star collection when he turned to the glamorous life of Adele Astaire for inspiration, bringing a new substance to his world.

9. Loewe — designed by Jonathan Anderson, PFW
There was a harmony in the alluring, shruggy casualness of the collection — a quality that Jonathan Anderson should be able to take all the way to the bank.

10. Coach — designed by Stuart Vevers, NYFW
If Coach has been America's house of leather for 76 years, this collection was its evolution into an American luxury brand.

www.businessoffashion.com

 

[helmutnotdead]

www.businessoffashion.com

This is a joke. Coach? Versace? Gucci?!

 

[Lola701]

I can't make a Top Ten. I really enjoyed a lot of things this season!

So in that order!

BEST
NYC
-Tom Ford (tacky, energetic, fun)
-Sies Marjan (flawless color palette)

LONDON
-Richard malone
-House of Holland
-Toga
-JW Anderson (just for the menswear)

MILAN
-Fendi
-Versace
-Krizia

PARIS
-Chanel
-Loewe
-Thom Browne
-Chloé
-Jacquemus
-Lutz Huelle
-Undercover
-Noir Kei Ninomiya
-Haider Ackermann
-Martin Grant

WORST:

PRADA & MIU MIU (complete disaster)
Burberry
Michael Kors
Dior
Calvin Klein (still the show that annoyed me the most this season)
Cavalli
Balenciaga

 

[reesewu]

This is a joke. Coach? Versace? Gucci?!

I actually found a lot of Stuart's menswear offerings desirable, particularly the outerwear. I'd go as far as to say that he is a more refined Hedi Slimane when it comes to menswear. On that note, I'd also include Coach in my list of honorable mentions.

 

[mathiaskatz]

Yeah, I liked Coach's collection this season.

 

[FashionPower]

This season was a total snooze-fest, fashion is getting so plain, boring and basic. I hate how every brand is striving to go full commercial mode in order to increase sales and revenues.
So hard to pick 10 or even 5 best collections, most of them were just average slightly shifting over "ok". On the other hand is very easy to list bad and boring collections. What bothers me the most is that most designers are putting literally ZERO effort in making something new that stands out but they just go the cheap way making autopilot collections filled with hot "best selling" items from previous collections or styling wise. Also it's fun to look at Moschino transformation: it was one of the most basic and boring shows of Milan Fashion Week (definitely B-list) but Jeremy managed to turn it into a TOP one: best models casting, real shows filled with excitement and passion for fashion, clear vision every single season. I know most people can't stand Jeremy as a designer (I'm the first one saying his own brand is full of gimmicky and looks cheap as ****) but you can't deny how successfully he was in turning Moschino into a relevant brand without refusing to show 60 looks filled with basic clothes you can find at Zara or easy to sell bags with monograms and logos.

BEST
- Moschino
- Valentino
- Givenchy (nice Clare's redemption from that basic debut collection)
- Roberto Cavalli (another redemption from debut, this is how you do Cavalli without being gimmick)

WORST
- Dior (hell no Maria Grazia)
- Gucci (enough with the thrift shop mania)
- Balmain (too messy and all over the place)
- Versace

BORING - AVERAGE
- CHANEL
- Saint Laurent (rock & roll Slimane style on autopilot)
- Balenciaga (loved those velvet draping dresses but the whole show looked another autopilot collection)
- Fendi
- Dolce & Gabbana (enough with these queen - royalty themed autopilot inspired shows)

 

[jeanclaude]

This season was a total snooze-fest, fashion is getting so plain, boring and basic. I hate how every brand is striving to go full commercial mode in order to increase sales and revenues.
So hard to pick 10 or even 5 best collections, most of them were just average slightly shifting over "ok". On the other hand is very easy to list bad and boring collections. What bothers me the most is that most designers are putting literally ZERO effort in making something new that stands out but they just go the cheap way making autopilot collections filled with hot "best selling" items from previous collections or styling wise.

Totally agree with you! There´s a big shortage of passion and risk for innovation in the industry nowadays.
(by the way I was surprised to see your Metal Gear V avatar! )

Best: Some pieces from Rick Owens; and Comme des Garçons for giving a big "f.u.c.k. off" to this mediocre fashion industry.

Worst: The rest. Boring and basic. And sometimes tacky as hell.

 

[CholoChic]

Dior pays the first main pages of magazines, so they have to be tenderly with their main clientes, but there is a fact that many Hollywood stars went to The Oscars in Dior.

I have to download all the video shows to apreciate them and enjoy them with my older women friends who enjoy them and critize them with her women sense without being influenced by media because they dont use internet or see fashion magazines just old ladies with her femenine sense.

Vogue just selected Christian Dior as one of the Nine highlights of París.

I don't know what to do: send them an email saying the most horrendous things, laugh or cry.

I'm just DISGUSTED by fashion nowadays.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Top Twelve Collections on Vogue Runway.

Chanel, Sacai, Marine Serre, Gucci, BURBERRY , Versace, Paco Rabanne, Loewe, Simone Rocha , Gypsy Sport, Balenciaga and Calvin Klein.

Except Sacai and Marine Serre, all those collections are quite boring and ugly. Beyond my understanding what happened with their criteria.

Quite fun the fact that I've predicted the spot of Simone Rocha here on her thread.

I'm just sick of Sarah Mower at Vogue and Nicole.