Bottega Veneta S/S 2025 Milan

Everyone at the show is describing the collection as light, fun and whimsical, clearly seeing the clothes in person makes a difference.
 
I’ll take this, absolutely loved it. It has been quite a journey seeing BV transition from being just a luxury brand to a fashion and luxury brand, and I think they’ve found the balance. This collection is chic, elevated, mature, and quite whimsical. Like old money meeting new money. Very interesting.
 
Blazy always wanted to be like Lee. Well, now he has achieved it! He is as lost at BV, than Lee at Burberry...

Also, why a pizza dress???

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freepik.com
 
Another thing I don’t understand is why someone working in fashion with some talent can still be into oversized clothing. It’s soooooo passé please!

We need 2006 silhouettes but updated for today. The oversized shoulders and layering are so out of fashion in 2024, I don’t get why this guy keeps doing it.
He probably lives in a bubble.

When I see oversize in a collection, it takes 9 out 10 points of quality. It's the worst trick.
 
Ok another thought…he’s so obsessed with “elevating the ordinary and everyday” and in doing so, fails to create anything that anyone could actually use everyday. I sense this same issue with other designers now - they think it’s clever to do these sort of “slice of life” shows and think that the non-linear, chaos-of-the-street kind of approach is really modern or something. It isn’t working.
 
It's just all so heavy and a bit self obsessed in the way he wants to ingrain is "expect the unexpected/challenging the everyday" mantra he adopts here. All I like is looks 33 and 41 because of how simple and direct they are. But then I also know where the reference comes from and where it's been done far better (unfortunately).

It does make me miss Tomas Maier but then I also think that's nostalgia getting in the way. I think Blazy has that sensibility in him, and there's flashes of it in here. He just needs to actually relax and lighten up a bit and "conceptualise" the idea of relaxing and lightening it up a bit for the sake of being more "arty" than he needs to be.
 
I thought Blazy styled his collections? If so, he definitely needs to hire a stylist
Alaistair McKimm usually styles the shows. I don’t know if it was done in house this time though…
Only 9% of BV's sales come from RTW
Which make sense as it’s a leather goods maison above everything. And still, it’s an improvement. When Tomas Maier left, it represented 5%.
So it means that Blazy has stayed consistent compared to the Daniel Lee numbers in terms of RTW despite the fact that seles have decreased a bit.

Is that not most brands? BV produces so little of their RTW now compared to Lee’s era, if anything they’ve significantly reduced the amount of clothes they send to outlets.

Yes, when you are such a big house, the healthiest structure of business to have is 20% fashion and 80% bags and leather goods. And fashion is shoes and clothes with generally clothes selling less.

But we have to remember the scale of those brands. Fashion representing 10% of sales at a brand like Vuitton is insane still. The same for Gucci and all those big brands.
So 9% of RTW for a 1.74 billion brand is not bad.

But BV has always been quite consistent in terms of RTw sales even though it has grew under Lee. It became a 1Billion brand in 2013 and their RTW was always between 5/7%
 
thought this season was a touch better than usual..
But still, so tiring of the “whimsical” approach.
Alistair Mckimm does not style this show any longer, hence the improvements, but oh boy, so much more room for improvement is left behind…
 
There's a huge disconnect between the adorable springtime-themed beanbag chairs and the actual runway collection. Could you imagine the serious Bottega customer frolicking in a wildflower field filled with rabbits and ladybirds wearing these heavy AF oversized coats and dresses in such somber colours?? Loewe does a way better job mixing the cute weird kitsch stuff in
 
Everyone at the show is describing the collection as light, fun and whimsical, clearly seeing the clothes in person makes a difference.
So does the risk of getting barred from any future shows, and it's worse in Milan, because all of the designers are friends, unlike the ones in Paris.
 
Not my favourite collection by him but still solid when you see what other brands are putting out. I was also not a fan of that headpiece gimmick.

Fabulous casting and soundtrack as always though!
 
For me it was a very strong collection.

I loved the details with the matches.
the black dress with the swinging matches was really cool, i think.


Those oversized mens clothes were tooooo oversize...
 
I don’t know why but I agree with everybody in this thread (that must be a first). I agree with the negative, the very negative, the neutral, the positive… 🤔
 

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