Burberry F/W 2023.24 London

[Deleted member 7575]

He's high as a kite and he's not looking well at all.

This is kind of painful. I feel bad for him.

 

[THD96]

It's an okay debut. I don't hate it but don't love it either. I think it lacks the impact of a debut show, none of this is memorable, and by the time I'm done with this comment, I'll forget about it and move on with my day.

I think Daniel the scope of the brand so he didn't present something that feels ultra luxurious. But I think that it is great that he brings some sense of humor back into Burberry, something that has been missing with Tisci's tenure. It's not always working, and I do not understand all of it but I guess it's just British humor.

As for the collection, I like the one-shoulder dresses (look 34 & 35). I think the accessories are cute.
But I don't like the roses prints and I'm surprised by the lack of tailoring from him. Would like to see it from him next season.
And a big NO with the feather and fake fur, they just don't look appealing at all. Look 40 with the red hair boy, it looks like he glued a feather duster into the sweater. And you can tell the Burberry atelier doesn't have the skill to work with fake fur, because they are quite atrocious.
I think the worst thing about this collection is none of the trenchcoats or outerwear look desirable, and that is something he needs to work on because a good trenchcoat is essential for Burberry.
He also needs a new stylist, someone who can polish up his look.

That being said, I'm not entirely writing Daniel off, maybe because this is so my expectation wasn't high, to begin with. I'll wait for the pre-collection.

 

[jeanclaude]

He's high as a kite and he's not looking well at all.

This is kind of painful. I feel bad for him.

Now I can understand the reason for this mess...

 

[urd]

He also needs a new stylist, someone who can polish up his look.

Does anyone know who styled this? I'm putting some of the blame there, although that doesn't explain the print tees

 

[LadyJunon]

He's high as a kite and he's not looking well at all.

This is kind of painful. I feel bad for him.

Holy sh*t, that's very disturbing to see. Does this have something to do with the Bottega drama or is this more personal or recent?

 

[StylishCynic]

Bags:

I incorrectly saw the metal hardware on bag 3 as “TB” during the livestream. Whew! Glad to see that’s been washed away.

Source: Twitter

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Not strange at all. Very strategic. This is the kind of fashion that makes the shareholders happy. Very commercial juniorwear at the local mall vibe (down to the cast of headcount children). If the runway was painted all-white, it would look like 80s-Benetton produced a runway show.

Very smart business move with the nova check in all those electric colors: They will sell well with the flex-addicts— from tiktokers to outlet mall middle-America. There’s nothing British about this. (…But then again, British kidz these days are so desperate to be Americanized, so he definitely gets the mood of the masses.)

I guess I find it strange because the mood is really hard to understand. It is a very sellable collection for sure, especially when you split the pieces up and away from their looks. But the mood of this felt hypo/hyperthermic. The layering and shapes feel too hot, heavy and sweaty (funny I know because it's a F/W collection) and yet the mood is really depressive and cold.

There isn't a lot of breathing room with this so it feels more complicated than it needs to be. But I suppose that works in his favour profit wise. It is very product driven but the show itself is a let down as there isn't much desire with it too.

 

[disco54]

The color palette is atrocious lol wtf was he thinking, but its much closer to a British aesthetic that's for sure, but it is just ugly. Please just get Bailey back .

 

[IndigoHomme]

Marni van Noten by Stuart Vevers...What a waste

 

[Norden]

It’s a very muddy collection.
But there are also good things, it catches the spirit of British fashion and Burberry better.

I think it’s main issues lie in styling and presentation. Heavy and unclear shapes cascade on the bodies, creating looks that are hard to read. To me that feels like he’s insecure, especially with the light design. Albez used similar light but he made sure his silhouettes read as clear and strong.

I think he’ll need time to establish something at this brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think it’s main issues lie in styling and presentation. Heavy and unclear shapes cascade on the bodies, creating looks that are hard to read. To me that feels like he’s insecure, especially with the light design. Albez used similar light but he made sure his silhouettes read as clear and strong.

I think that the main difference in how Alber and Daniel use of what I call "Lanvin Lighting", is that with Alber, the runway was little more than a straight line with a illuminated backdrop and the clothes presented were bright enough in colour and simple enough in shape to see.

Here, we have a complicated twisting runway without a strong light source at either end and the clothes are dark and shapeless enough blend into the background.

Not to mention, that Lanvin traditionally used one camera (from the photographer's pit) for livestreams, releasing a detailed video later. Dior did this too, I believe. This is a multi-camera stream, where each camera angle will hopefully go through post-production (splicing, stitching and colour-correction) before a finished video is released.

 

[liberty33r1b]

why does everything have to be so ugly these days, I don‘t get it

 

[donyan]

I was rooting for him but find it difficult to understand where his Burberry is heading. It has a Camden Market stall feel to it, which I suppose would be interesting for a designer just starting out, but this is THE biggest British luxury brand and I’m wondering if this is the right direction. Time will tell I guess.

 

[RaisinBoy]

It’s so bad that it’s almost good….
I found it really ugly but there were some interesting touches of humor. I gravitate towards designers who likes to challenge my perception of taste so maybe it has something that I can appreciate.

I loved that it felt British, I loved the cast, the mood and the music. I really loved one look towards the end: a chiffon dress with ruffles around the neck worn with riding boots. The bags were good..

That being said: THE FAKE FUR! Stop with that already!
The collection felt very much trendy, IG oriented and quite mediocre in terms of real proposition to wear…

It felt like the new Marni…

It will be interesting to see how this will be translated in the commercial collection.

It’s weird because Riccardo did delivered better collections but this really had a British flair to it…

Marni van Noten by Stuart Vevers...What a waste

hahahaha!!! You nailed it!!

 

[RaisinBoy]

He's high as a kite and he's not looking well at all.

This is kind of painful. I feel bad for him.

j in

 

[RaisinBoy]

Now the drugs don't work
They just make you worse
But I know I'll see your face again

 

[upzilicious]

The clothes are clean and easy to wear.
But It's very Benetton

 

[mteb123]

Lacklustre… It wasn’t hideous but I think most people were expecting more of a strong direction with his first collection, but maybe he’s a slow burner let us see!! Mens was definitely better than the woman’s which just looked ugly… let’s hope with more time he can develop a stronger direction…

Also where are the hit bags, shoes and accessories? This could’ve helped if these were strong off the bat!!

Also I “hate” that all over rose print!! Just no!!

 

[Ruito]

what a hot mess right?

 

[Ruito]

Somebody get Christopher Bailey out of the countryside he's hiding and save this mess.

for real though, even though his last collections for the house were very underwhelming he produced really good material in his tenure for the house.