Burberry F/W 2023.24 London

[Lola701]

Is it only me but I never understand the « bring the old designer » or « previous designer back ». Fashion is about moving forward…I want Lee to do better or for the house to find the right talent but the idea of having someone from the past coming again to save everything is ridiculous.

Bailey’s last year was terrible for Burberry even if it prepared the foundation for the Streetwear aesthetic move of Riccardo.

As controversial as this collection is, it’s still a much more achieved interpretation of what Bailey and Riccardo tried to do. Hopefully, Lee’s Burberry won’t be only about that.

I wonder tho what Bailey’s presence at the show meant. He is a mentor to Lee but no desire to return in the fashion scene on a much more important capacity?

 

[yslforever]

He's high as a kite and he's not looking well at all.

This is kind of painful. I feel bad for him.

He needs a couple of weeks in a Aman resort or at a Lanserhof retreat.

 

[Frederic01]

I wonder tho what Bailey’s presence at the show meant. He is a mentor to Lee but no desire to return in the fashion scene on a much more important capacity?

"The presence of Bailey in the audience at Lee’s show seemed to signpost that the brand is plotting a route back to his romantic vision of Cool Britannia."
The Guardian

 

[style_expert]

I'm struggling to understand where they aim to place Burberry in the brand hierarchy with this collection.
This is so youthful, unedited, all over the place and bulky. It's very far from luxury.
It's definitely missing a sense of immediate desirability too.


In the first instance, I'm mostly disappointed by the bags and shoes. I thought that was the main reason they hired Lee..of course apart from his Britishness. The styling is possibly the worst part of it all, who was responsible for that?

Does anyone know whether he started with a complete new team at Burberry? Or are there some previous members of his old BV team?

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Once I saw the first look, I remembered: Lee’s runway collections suck. Idk why I was so excited for this debut… Though, I’m sure his pre-fall and resort collections will be much better (like at BV).
Overall, why introduce more clothes into the world if you have nothing interesting to say? I honestly think Burberry would be better off closing rtw all together.

 

[Deleted member 119799]

Does anyone know whether he started with a complete new team at Burberry? Or are there some previous members of his old BV team?

afaik he only took 2 of his own with him, far from what he had when he started at BV

 

[frenchiefashionlover]

Was just watching the Showstudio review of DL's burberry, not sure we've seen the same show. They are ecstatic about everything! Probably the london fashion microcosm bias.

As for his team, most of the people at bottega when he left stayed there. Seeing the collection, he must have picked his crew from fresh CSM graduates.

 

[dodencebt]

I am pretty sure that Lee's Burberry will be all about basic and wearable clothes that won't challenge anyone's perception of fashion, mostly for a young generation that needs to buy into the Burberry brand. At the end of the day, Burberry is not a fashion brand, and I think that much was clear from Riccardo's failed attempt at getting it there. A lot of Burberry belongs in department stores, and should cater to a wide audience that mostly consists of people who want somewhat well made clothes with a somewhat understated logo. While this is not really my style (we'll see what the commercial pieces will look like, though), I think Lee's direction achieves that.

 

[LostInNJ]

I am pretty sure that Lee's Burberry will be all about basic and wearable clothes that won't challenge anyone's perception of fashion, mostly for a young generation that needs to buy into the Burberry brand. At the end of the day, Burberry is not a fashion brand, and I think that much was clear from Riccardo's failed attempt at getting it there. A lot of Burberry belongs in department stores, and should cater to a wide audience that mostly consists of people who want somewhat well made clothes with a somewhat understated logo. While this is not really my style (we'll see what the commercial pieces will look like, though), I think Lee's direction achieves that.

Perhaps this is a question for another thread (and it isn't only directed at you, as I have seen this statement raised many times) but, what was Burberry considered during Christopher Bailey's time? I understand that Riccardo's vision didn't fit other people's vision of what Burberry should be, but I wouldn't say he was trying to make it into a fashion brand post Bailey...

 

[LadyJunon]

Perhaps this is a question for another thread (and it isn't only directed at you, as I have seen this statement raised many times) but, what was Burberry considered during Christopher Bailey's time? I understand that Riccardo's vision didn't fit other people's vision of what Burberry should be, but I wouldn't say he was trying to make it into a fashion brand post Bailey...

I think the main issue came from dissolving all of Burberry's extra lines: Prorsum was the "high fashion" line, London was the classical offering and Brit was a sort of diffusion line. London and Brit's mass appeal supported Burberry's bottom line, while Prorsum "forwardness" elevated Burberry in the fashion paradigm. Tisci's Burberry had the responsabilities of what was originally three separate divisions.

 

[LostInNJ]

I think the main issue came from dissolving all of Burberry's extra lines: Prorsum was the "high fashion" line, London was the classical offering and Brit was a sort of diffusion line. London and Brit's mass appeal supported Burberry's bottom line, while Prorsum "forwardness" elevated Burberry in the fashion paradigm. Tisci's Burberry had the responsabilities of what was originally three separate divisions.

I understand the dissolving of the divisions, but ultimately, nothing changed in regards to the product offering, if that was the intention. Wasn't that what Marc had done with his line at one point, but it didn't work? Having clothes of different price points in the show/hanging together in the shop. It just confused and frustrated customers and retailers trying to merchandise everything?

Interestingly enough, the link to the show and RT previous show on Vogue Runway includes Prorsum...wondering if they will begin separating the divisions again. Not sure if Vogue ever removed it, but I found that interesting.

Burberry Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Burberry Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

 

[style_expert]

afaik he only took 2 of his own with him, far from what he had when he started at BV

As for his team, most of the people at bottega when he left stayed there. Seeing the collection, he must have picked his crew from fresh CSM graduates.

Thank you, that explains a lot...

 

[Lola701]

Was just watching the Showstudio review of DL's burberry, not sure we've seen the same show. They are ecstatic about everything! Probably the london fashion microcosm bias.

As for his team, most of the people at bottega when he left stayed there. Seeing the collection, he must have picked his crew from fresh CSM graduates.

Thank god French aren’t that nationalist when it comes to designers…
Nobody cared that Galliano’s work was never really « French » and thank god there are many ways of being « French ».

It’s interesting because from my POV, Tisci had a real understanding of British culture. The only thing was that he had his personality, his aesthetic and his interpretation of what that British culture was for him…

Celine was the definition of bourgeoise Rive Droite and Phoebe turned it into a more international idea of Bourgeoisie but it was still bourgeois..

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^ The thing is for international brands such as Burberry, Dior, etc, why would it matter to look “British” or “French” ?

They don’t do collection for the locals for sure.

Regarding this collection, I prefer to stay silent but he needs to step up quick.

 

[LadyJunon]

Thank god French aren’t that nationalist when it comes to designers…
Nobody cared that Galliano’s work was never really « French » and thank god there are many ways of being « French ».

It’s interesting because from my POV, Tisci had a real understanding of British culture. The only thing was that he had his personality, his aesthetic and his interpretation of what that British culture was for him…

Celine was the definition of bourgeoise Rive Droite and Phoebe turned it into a more international idea of Bourgeoisie but it was still bourgeois..

Honestly, the London fashion industry is very tribalistic. Everyone there comes from Central St.Martins or Royal College of Art. Despite having JWA as an alumni, London College of Fashion is seem as more commercial and therefore lesser than.

Every designer goes through Fashion East, before becoming a permanent fixture at London Fashion Week. If a designer decides to move on to Milan or Paris to grow beyond, they're considered an egotistical traitor. It's very incestuous in a way.

It's to the point that the British Fashion Council, the governing body behind London Fashion Week, requires designers to be born in the UK to participate. Paris, however, has as many international brands as they do French, even the Haute Couture schedule.

 

[Lola701]

Honestly, the London fashion industry is very tribalistic. Everyone there comes from Central St.Martins or Royal College of Art. Despite having JWA as an alumni, London College of Fashion is seem as more commercial and therefore lesser than.

Every designer goes through Fashion East, before becoming a permanent fixture at London Fashion Week. If a designer decides to move on to Milan or Paris to grow beyond, they're considered an egotistical traitor. It's very incestuous in a way.

It's to the point that the British Fashion Council, the governing body behind London Fashion Week, requires designers to be born in the UK to participate. Paris, however, has as many international brands as they do French, even the Haute Couture schedule.

And with that, it’s easy to understand why nobody cares about LFW.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Thank god French aren’t that nationalist when it comes to designers…
Nobody cared that Galliano’s work was never really « French » and thank god there are many ways of being « French ».

It’s interesting because from my POV, Tisci had a real understanding of British culture. The only thing was that he had his personality, his aesthetic and his interpretation of what that British culture was for him…

Celine was the definition of bourgeoise Rive Droite and Phoebe turned it into a more international idea of Bourgeoisie but it was still bourgeois..

THANK YOU

There is something about their conversation that felt a little xenophobic to be honest.

Also, who cares how British it is if it's f****** ugly? Unless Britishness is synonymous with being tasteless.

I will take Tisci's Burberry over this anytime.

 

[perhydrol]

I mean, Lee got some things right because this collection is as depressive as the condition of the UK as a country, so I'd give him credit for that. However, I still think this collection has a strong mouldy stench to it and, after seeing some of the accessories, I'd say they're too close to Mulberry to become a smashing hit.

Can't believe I'm saying this, but Tisci could have been way better than this if he hadn't had to do all the awful streetwear, at least for the runway collections.

 

[upNorth]

Look #6 is possibly the ugliest look I've seen grace the runway. It is screaming everything-for-£5-on-Church-Street-market-just-off-Edgware-Road. Now that I typed this, perhaps this is a part of the Britishness that is being summoned. Fair enough. Long gone are the days of idealisation.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I noticed the whole thing about Britishness had become a scarily huge push since Brexit (if that isn’t impolite to say). It was always there, but since then the nationalistic pride that came into their fashion scene has become a little off putting. Which is funny, because it contradicts some of their views about the whole thing particularly those at SHOWStudio. Not as global as they seem…

Seeing as so many Brits have also been part of the LVMH prize, being moved to work at other brands (Reed at Ricci, Maximilian at Ferragamo, Jones at Dior and Nensi rumoured to be at Givenchy) it’s the same conversation that happens every now and then. “British Invasion”, “Brits take over Paris/Milan”, “UK? OK!!!” and whatnot but really highlights how little they’ve truly budged from their echo chamber.

Why I still feel like CSM is a kiss of death. Just feeds into their clique, and keeps their egos running on a high but ultimately, their alumni fizzle/burn out or just aren’t enough because they design themselves into a corner.