Burberry F/W 2023.24 London

[Fiercification]

LOL. I've never bought into the hype surrounding this man, especially given that it was built on six/seven (unremarkable and quite ugly IMO) collections at Bottega. This is forgettable at best. Much as I felt Tisci was an ill fit at Burberry, he could, for the most part, still produce beautiful clothes. And Bailey for all his faults built a firm identity for this brand, brought it to prominence and could deliver good looking collections from time to time. Watch Burberry fade into irrelevance now; the awful new logo is just the start.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

To be honest Burberry is so zzz it should just relax and quiet down. Not everything has to be a thing. A turning point for me was recently the flagship store on Newbury St. in Boston had a basement flood that did damage to the elevators. Instead of fixing they decided to sell the building. An absolutely iconic (to me) space and landmark for almost 40 years scrapped because they didn't see the cost of reparations worth saving the space. Now the only one left is the one in the Pru which is zzz just another outlet mall esque designer merch store. Not that the flagship had much better inside, but it's so corporate now.

 

[tomtakesphotos]

I feel like too many brands occupy the same already built-out world now.. like this Burberry fits right into what he already did at Bottega, which fit into what he did with Phoebe at Celine, which lives after death so closely alongside Proenza Schouler, The Row even, down to brands like Tibi even lol.. all these brands are fighting to fit into the same Juergen Teller, Mark Borthwickified world-- which ultimately ends up at Zara and ultimately won't be exciting enough to be really revered in 30, 40 years from now. I don't believe it was this way before and I'm not sure how or if the industry will break out of it. There's one acceptable way to show a fashion collection these days and it requires boiling up some old Jil Sander sprinkling over the pretension and making sure your campaign looks like it's from one of the first few issues of Self Service. Everything is so streamlined and nothing feels new, exciting, or a like a big departure. I guess it's just the culture now.

 

[RaisinBoy]

THANK YOU

There is something about their conversation that felt a little xenophobic to be honest.

Also, who cares how British it is if it's f****** ugly? Unless Britishness is synonymous with being tasteless.

I will take Tisci's Burberry over this anytime.[

Thank god French aren’t that nationalist when it comes to designers…
Nobody cared that Galliano’s work was never really « French » and thank god there are many ways of being « French ».

It’s interesting because from my POV, Tisci had a real understanding of British culture. The only thing was that he had his personality, his aesthetic and his interpretation of what that British culture was for him…

Celine was the definition of bourgeoise Rive Droite and Phoebe turned it into a more international idea of Bourgeoisie but it was still bourgeois..

MMmm.... Kind of starting to wonder if there's no saving burberry at this point.

 

[Frederic01]

It’s nice to see Bailey come out to support Daniel!


SUZY MENKES

 

[Frederic01]

SUZY MENKES

 

[volft]

It’s nice to see Bailey come out to support Daniel!

Can't help but feel how good his outfit looks compared to Daniel's outfit. Christopher looks like he would fit right into a Celine show.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Well, that shade of blue is hurting my eyes. So far this has been unexpected in an underwhelming way. The collection is quite a mix of commercial stuff. I don't like the colors here. I guess it's his schtick to find the "right" shade of color like what he did at BV. The collection is passable as a debut.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Bailey' jacket (designed by himself, obviously) is better than the whole collection, DAMN! I really miss this man in the menswear scene

 

[eugenius]

To be honest Burberry is so zzz it should just relax and quiet down. Not everything has to be a thing. A turning point for me was recently the flagship store on Newbury St. in Boston had a basement flood that did damage to the elevators. Instead of fixing they decided to sell the building. An absolutely iconic (to me) space and landmark for almost 40 years scrapped because they didn't see the cost of reparations worth saving the space. Now the only one left is the one in the Pru which is zzz just another outlet mall esque designer merch store. Not that the flagship had much better inside, but it's so corporate now.

A lot of buildings on Newbury & Boylston have fallen into disrepair in the past 10 years, only to be sold off in recent times. When you look at the rising cost of real estate there vs. how much money these businesses can actually bring in, it’s no wonder their Newbury location went under. I’m actually surprised they managed to stay there that long. (IMO, Newbury, as a prime retail destination, lost its appeal once Louis Boston said “Bye, babies”, and that was well over 10 years ago.)

I can’t say much about this collection. It’s fine for department store fodder that’ll do good enough at retail (I assume), but that’s it. Is it an exciting runway show? Eff no, but I also liked Tomas Maier’s BV parade of pretty (and safe) dresses, so what do I know?

If he continues on this path, I’ll be sure to Ignore any add’l threads here before actually clicking on them.

 

[Olaffo]

First of all, thank you for your insights, was really interesting to read the reviews and different POV (I'd love to do like a zoom about the collections tbh).

He took completely different approach to what Burberry is but I swear to you, I'd take it any day of the week. Tisci Burberry was just a non-sense: misplaced aesthetics of well established designer confronted with rather conservative fashion house which just totally crushed him for different (plenty tbh) reasons.

Lee is brining the eccentricity and the commerciality to the Burberry. This collection is not great but it has the roots and playfulness of the Burberry. He will improve with next collections I am sure of that and, should the pieces will be properly translated into commercial offerings, he will be a successful, long-term designer.

 

[kasper!]

Some new products upcoming. source xhs-burberry-luke

 

[callmejaeden]

I like the blue coat but those heels are not it

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Those products look great.
Sorry but the Tisci era at Burberry was a mess and a miss. I feel like Daniel Lee is bringing the quirky British humor in his tenure

It’s not a revolution but it’s decent clothes with a twist. And I like his approach with colors. It’s quite singular these days. Only a few houses like Valentino play nicely with colors lately.

Riccardo just focused too hard on the beige tartan and brought nothing appealing to me.

 

[StylishCynic]

Some new products upcoming. source xhs-burberry-luke

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The furry shoes are Old Céline + New Bottega.

The blanket coat is Old Céline.

The black bag is The Row Banana Bag plus Old Céline bell accoutrements.

The boots are every designer in the past 3-4 years at one point or another.

The purple bag is Grimace’s rectal prolapse.

 

[LadyJunon]

I like furry shoes, but only on a runway. In real life, shoes like that become trashy looking very quickly.

 

[Lola701]

I like furry shoes, but only on a runway. In real life, shoes like that become trashy looking very quickly.

Furry shoes only make sense if you are hosting at Home…

 

[StylishCynic]

Sales Associates are saying that the bag prices are in the $5,000 USD range for "small" bags and go up from there.

They're attributing it to a huge quality increase. Sure...

 

[gallianostan]

Sales Associates are saying that the bag prices are in the $5,000 USD range for "small" bags and go up from there.

They're attributing it to a huge quality increase. Sure...

quite confident for a brand that's the fashion equivalent of billboard's bubbling under hot 100.

 

[blueorchid]

Furry shoes only make sense if you are hosting at Home…

And they need a matching robe to complete the look, let's face it...