Milan Burberry's British Aristocratic Chic
By Godfrey Deeny
I first really became aware of Lord Snowdon when the UK press began running photos of him larking about in his workers cap, looking very dapper on a yacht with his wife, Princess Margaret, on a South Seas cruise.
The tabloids and the broadsheets all loved to mock the royal couple for their self-indulgence and many vacations. Me, I just felt jealous that they were living the sort of life I felt I fully deserved. Christopher Bailey, the creative director of Burberry, evidently shared that sentiment. Snowden, David Hicks and Lord Lichfield, three differing British aristocrats, were the inspiration for the collection he presented Sunday in Milan, easily the best show of the day.
Most of the clothes harked backed to the halcyon moment when modern pop culture and classic British style combined to create a new idea of what was cool. Bailey opened with the Burberry iconic garment, the trench, but revamped every time with a spirit that seemd to say Raymond Chandler meets Cambridge aesthete. Composed of stiff canvas or butter soft leathers, they all looked great
Bailey certainly has a rich imaginaiton: he showed super snug cardigans in colors more associated with club ties, re-invented the golf shoe with a tasseled patent leather loafer and caused a fair few smiles with the some naive flower power prints on micro shorts and pants. The unbottoned workers cap worn by one third of the models was the clearest reference to Snowden. One could recall him cocking a snoot from off a long yacht at a paparazzi lens.
Bailey used a Hicksian faux cable print throughout the show, spectacularly in a patchwork shirt, more descreetly as a collar trim of the shirt he wore to take his bow. The applause was almost deafening. In typically hyper professional fashion, the show was staged in a air conditioned runway space in the Palazzo Serbelloni, where a huge cover was pulled off the tent’s perspex roof minutes before the show began, in order to keep the blistering Milan sun out.
Even the runway was classy – 40,000 square feet of putty-colored travertine stone, that recalled my own version of Snowden’s self indulgence as a terrace hopping foreign correspondent in early eighties Rome.
“I wanted something that was the color of a trench, and this stone is,” smiled Bailey, whose latest men’s show underlined not just his skill and imagination, but also, arguably, his greatest strength. This guy never overplays a hand.
From Fashion Wire Daily