Burberry Prorsum Mens F/W 06.07 Milan

[birdofparadise]

I'd never really thought I'd feel this way, especially since I was overjoyed with Burb's Hockney collection a few seasons back but the colors and textures here don't seem as interesting to me. There's a bit of gimmick in it, too much of the English/Cambridge, slightly neurotic dandy who perhaps has been cut off financially so he's making due with his girlfriend's old Chanel quilted jacket...it's calculated, it all looks how you'd expect it to look.

 

[ETROsexualJ]

Me likey!

(from men.style.com)

 

[Cosette]

My favourite looks...
(vogue.co.uk)

 

[faust]

^Ooooh...that last pic you posted is especially nice. That leather jacket looks wonderful. Dare I say it...that and the scarf bring to mind the better days of Dior.

My thoughts exactly! They must've heard the wailing of the Dior fans and jumped on it . In any case, despite some misses, this is the best collection so far, and it's the only (except maybe, shockingly, Gucci) exception to PoC's "blowing older men for money looks in Milan" rule....

 

[Zazie]

I hate it.. Beautiful colours and textures but the cut! Look at those shoulders and collars. It's also running contrary to the tailored but fuller silhouette out there, eg. Raf Simmons. Ever since Karl Lagerfeld went on a strict diet to fit into Dior Homme clothes, it has been looking very dated. That houndstooth trench would make me laugh out loud if I encounter it in the streets. Ditto the bronze coat. Ok, don't kill me now...just my very honest opinion.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

I hate it.. Beautiful colours and textures but the cut! Look at those shoulders and collars. It's also running contrary to the tailored but fuller silhouette out there, eg. Raf Simmons. Ever since Karl Lagerfeld went on a strict diet to fit into Dior Homme clothes, it has been looking very dated. That houndstooth trench would make me laugh out loud if I encounter it in the streets. Ditto the bronze coat. Ok, don't kill me now...just my very honest opinion.

I think it's very much an English silhouette rather than Hedi's Berlin-rent-boy look. The Raf Simons cut looks crap on builds like mine, so I rather like this.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I hate it.. Beautiful colours and textures but the cut! Look at those shoulders and collars. It's also running contrary to the tailored but fuller silhouette out there, eg. Raf Simmons. Ever since Karl Lagerfeld went on a strict diet to fit into Dior Homme clothes, it has been looking very dated. That houndstooth trench would make me laugh out loud if I encounter it in the streets. Ditto the bronze coat. Ok, don't kill me now...just my very honest opinion.

The skinny silhouette is here to stay for several seasons to come, gladly. I also don´t see what´s dated about it, considering for how many years we´ve already had boxy shapes in men´s fashion...

 

[faust]

The skinny silhouette is here to stay for several seasons to come, gladly. I also don´t see what´s dated about it, considering for how many years we´ve already had boxy shapes in men´s fashion...

and to add even more to the mix, i don't think any silhouette should go away. it is just ridiculous to use this boxed-in thinking. people have different body types and different aesthetics, and there should be a market for everyone.

 

[andrew]

This is quite easily the best collection so far. Decadent color use, from the plums to the brown leathers, everything was chosen with a specific purpose and end result in mind. The only fully realized work I've seen yet this season.

 

[Zazie]

I think it's very much an English silhouette rather than Hedi's Berlin-rent-boy look. The Raf Simons cut looks crap on builds like mine, so I rather like this.

The Berlin rent-boys I know are going boxy and wearing lighter, brighter colours.., not as up-tight as this though. But hell, they look good in anything.

I'm one of those who like change, and this change I like very much! Especially for guys. My very tall, skinny SO from Berlin has been hunting down the just-right slightly boxy Hugo Boss hip-length coats for a while now, and not so crazy about Dior, but with slim pants in contrast. I think he'll like the new JilSander collection, but the prices...

 

[Zazie]

The skinny silhouette is here to stay for several seasons to come, gladly. I also don´t see what´s dated about it, considering for how many years we´ve already had boxy shapes in men´s fashion...

Yes, I think the super skinny will be here, and a lot of designers will stick to it, but it won't be new...kind of like boot-cut jeans - nice, flattering and wildly popular, and then something else starts catching the attention of a certain group...

Hmm, I don't remember the older boxy shapes for men very well, except for the first Manadarina Duck coats, which I vowed to buy when I had enough money. It's really seeing some of the guys moving away from the really skinny and liking the new shapes they try on. I won't say it's "baggy" either, it's like the coats float a little, but not bulky. Pants are not skin-tight, but slim and skimming.

But of course everyone should wear what looks good on them.

I'm just going by how good the new shape looks on some of the guys...mmm...

But honestly, that houndstooth trenchcoat...

 

[PrinceOfCats]

But honestly, that houndstooth trenchcoat...

...is the sex.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

i like the 3pce suits that seem to be on various catwalks this season

 

[battles]

i always have an issue with prorsum's bottom silhouette which i'm not sure why. i once tried the trousers and i was haunted by the slick italian look.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Yes, I think the super skinny will be here, and a lot of designers will stick to it, but it won't be new...kind of like boot-cut jeans - nice, flattering and wildly popular, and then something else starts catching the attention of a certain group...

Hmm, I don't remember the older boxy shapes for men very well, except for the first Manadarina Duck coats, which I vowed to buy when I had enough money. It's really seeing some of the guys moving away from the really skinny and liking the new shapes they try on. I won't say it's "baggy" either, it's like the coats float a little, but not bulky. Pants are not skin-tight, but slim and skimming.

But of course everyone should wear what looks good on them.

I'm just going by how good the new shape looks on some of the guys...mmm...

But honestly, that houndstooth trenchcoat...

Sorry, but I won´t ever see the beauty of overpronounced shoulder pads in a jacket, I am fine with oversized proportions and like to wear them myself (more so in knitwear and other tops than in tailored pieces), but a blazer or coat, if not deconstructed, should fit very exact to the proportions of the body... It´s probably because I´ve seen enough German business men on my flights to Paris wearing ill-fitted, boxy 80ies style suits and overcoats that I cannot approve this shape at all... it´s exactly the same when you buy the first suit for a teenager, they´ll end up saying "oh, he´ll grow into it", so they end up buying one or two sizes up... those boys will never see the joy of wearing a blazer, really...

Also with regards to razor sharp tailoring, I don´t think it´ll become a mainstream thing that everybody will be wearing, simply because you have to have the body to fit the clothes... it´s the same for superskinny jeans, you can only wear them if you are skinny by nature... everybody else has to stick to 501´s style slim pants...

 

[dhclam]

I think it's by far the best styled show so far from C. Bailey for Burberry. I find it a lot better than ss 06, and normally I never did praise C.Bailey, since I consider him a pure stylist, however, I cannot find a single flaw from this whole show, and I must say, among all "stylists" in the Italian campus, he's one of the best this season so far. I absolutely love the slim silhouette, very very utterly ENGLISH, yet very modern, nothing old about it. Regarding the silhouette, I am glad the tailoring was so perfectly slim for slim people, nothing wrong with it, I believe. I always had problems with the bigger cutting/ proportion until Hedi Slimane's arrival, I am slim and so are many people.
Some of you guys refered this collection to Miu Miu or Prada, well... depending on who's designing MiuMiu, since Madame changes her assistant fairly often.... like now we're seeing the bad Miu Miu and Prada this season again....scary!

 

[Zazie]

Honestly?

...is the sex.

Maybe it appeals to other men.

Any guy in that houndstooth trench looks absolutely ridiculous to women.

 

[Zazie]

Sorry, but I won´t ever see the beauty of overpronounced shoulder pads in a jacket, I am fine with oversized proportions and like to wear them myself (more so in knitwear and other tops than in tailored pieces), but a blazer or coat, if not deconstructed, should fit very exact to the proportions of the body... It´s probably because I´ve seen enough German business men on my flights to Paris wearing ill-fitted, boxy 80ies style suits and overcoats that I cannot approve this shape at all... it´s exactly the same when you buy the first suit for a teenager, they´ll end up saying "oh, he´ll grow into it", so they end up buying one or two sizes up... those boys will never see the joy of wearing a blazer, really...

Also with regards to razor sharp tailoring, I don´t think it´ll become a mainstream thing that everybody will be wearing, simply because you have to have the body to fit the clothes... it´s the same for superskinny jeans, you can only wear them if you are skinny by nature... everybody else has to stick to 501´s style slim pants...

Are we looking at the same things? I'm refering to Raf Simons for Jil Sander, and maybe one or two pieces from Calvin Klein, eg. the very first tan leather coat sent out. There's no pronounced shoulder pads, if anything, they tend to slope slightly, even though they are not narrow. Size is only one of the issues here, it's not the traditional jacket/coat in a larger size. That's the horrible mistake MJ made for his women's collection Fall 2004. The proportion here is to move away from the waist and hip, not the V or the X shapes, but square, which gives it a floating, cocoon quality. The collars are also smaller, or non-existent. The tailoring and cut are vastly different from the ugly business men suits. The look is very pared down, and any accessories will just spoil it.

From what I gather, the turning to a larger shape is probably because almost everyone is doing the same thing, even Cavalli...and the sight of one too many fashion victims in black highschool boys' suit, sleeveless shirts and porkpie hats....not to mention Lagerfeld..heheh.

I guess it's also the desire to try something different from what everyone is wearing for some 5 years now, and if it works, you stand out from the crowd, and become a trendsetter. So the hunting in unlikely places (Hugo Boss??) for the right coat started.

I thought it was a make or break moment when Raf Simons tried the new proportion for Jil Sander. If you'd followed his career, he's no stranger to the skinny suit. If he had failed, he would have been struck out, but if he succeeded, he would be ushering a new look. I heard Hussein Chalayan tried it too, but have seen no images as yet.

But back to this Burberry collection...it's probably a case of meat/poison, leaning heavily on the meat for most, but I also came across a couple of reviews that dished it. I'll post if anyone's interested.

 

[Zazie]

I'm thinking the same way as this critic, too. But the test of the pudding is in the tasting, so if men went out in hordes to buy this.....


Milan Men's: Burgundy Burberry Goes Cruisin'

Article Written by: Godfrey Deeny

Not kidding ya, Burberry did a little cruisin' this season, a curious wardrobe for bad boys from the upper class in its show Sunday afternoon, the opening day of the Milan men's fashion season.

Now it's an odd thing that Burberry, which avoids football association like the plague to avoid the taint of hooliganism, has now embraced tony late night romp gear in a color scheme dominated by the color burgundy.

Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey also seems obsessed with gold, though within certain restraints. So there were no Jacob the Jeweler-like diamond watches on display, but there were gold metal encrusted belts pretty much everywhere, on the waist with chalk stripe suits and gay dude style, i.e. from the hip bone to the pocket. Gold even appeared as the metallic filigree of beige scarves and the lapel of an otherwise delightful camelhair redingote.

But worst of all this show was a styling Waterloo, a rare mishap for Bailey, without doubt one of the half dozen best men's designers in the planet this century. For instance: a tuxedo shirt with ruffles, purple cummerbund, black bow tie, skinny pants with belts closed five inches from the fly and white cashmere gloves made for a look that should never have exited a pampered adolescent's dressing room never mind a Milan backstage.

Bailey encountered difficulty when attempting to infuse street cred into his British couture – what Burberry male customer wants to wear a chalk stripe gents suit with West Village metal chains?

Another curious faux pas were the over-sized Pony Express bags, in snakeskin and woven leather, a faint echo of the great luggage we've seen on recent Burberry runways.

The show actually opened strongly, with some devilishly well cut eight button redingotes and suits in navy chalk stripe. There was also some neat tricks – a black cashmere sweater with ruffles – and some beautiful trench coats, either in faded leather or padded calf skin. But just as one was beginning to think Christopher might pull this off, one was stunned by a black leather Badlands suit of jeans and a Perfecto jacket.

But, after a streak of nearly a dozen excellent men's collections – once or twice the best of all the men's seasons – even Bailey can get it wrong.


http://www.salondaily.com/us/trends/fashion/style_file/fwd_0003.html

 

[tricotineacetat]

Are we looking at the same things? I'm refering to Raf Simons for Jil Sander, and maybe one or two pieces from Calvin Klein, eg. the very first tan leather coat sent out. There's no pronounced shoulder pads, if anything, they tend to slope slightly, even though they are not narrow. Size is only one of the issues here, it's not the traditional jacket/coat in a larger size. That's the horrible mistake MJ made for his women's collection Fall 2004. The proportion here is to move away from the waist and hip, not the V or the X shapes, but square, which gives it a floating, cocoon quality. The collars are also smaller, or non-existent. The tailoring and cut are vastly different from the ugly business men suits. The look is very pared down, and any accessories will just spoil it.

From what I gather, the turning to a larger shape is probably because almost everyone is doing the same thing, even Cavalli...and the sight of one too many fashion victims in black highschool boys' suit, sleeveless shirts and porkpie hats....not to mention Lagerfeld..heheh.

I guess it's also the desire to try something different from what everyone is wearing for some 5 years now, and if it works, you stand out from the crowd, and become a trendsetter. So the hunting in unlikely places (Hugo Boss??) for the right coat started.

I thought it was a make or break moment when Raf Simons tried the new proportion for Jil Sander. If you'd followed his career, he's no stranger to the skinny suit. If he had failed, he would have been struck out, but if he succeeded, he would be ushering a new look. I heard Hussein Chalayan tried it too, but have seen no images as yet.

But back to this Burberry collection...it's probably a case of meat/poison, leaning heavily on the meat for most, but I also came across a couple of reviews that dished it. I'll post if anyone's interested.

I approve new proportions in menswear, just as I do for women´s... it´s much more difficult though, to make it look natural and convincing. As far as the movement issue is concerned, I don´t know if it works in a traditional suitmaking craftsmanship, due to the canvassing, shoulder construction etc. I would agree if we were talking about deconstructed jackets.

I actually felt the same urgend need to own something that is a bit loose-y in the silhouette but at the same time still sharp and defined. The pantsuits shown in the Rochas S/S 2006 collection come to mind, with their very light fabrics, yet with a small shoulder. Something like this could work equally as well on a man but I am afraid the market is not ready for clothes like these...