Carol Christian Poell S/S 08 Milan

[runner]

his collection is an intertwined mass of a good few elements. there should be several angles from which it is to be observed. so it could look different from each viewpoint.
but for S/S 08 it seems that the technical emphasis is on extensive weight reduction.
all has made lighter some way or other, and some are even airy.
perforation, ventilation, transparency, paper or cellophane-like materials, dry kangaroo, goat, ripstop nylon, filmy clear polyester, clear thread as fine as spiders', tape almost like membrane, and altimately just glue on seams instead of tape, etc.
even the lookbook model chosen this time looks the least serious of all in ccp history, and has a light air, and it is styled in a light mood.


they went on location for the presentation for the first time in years.
it took place in a lavatory in the dilapidated factory.
a lavatory as a systematized place where man's character manifests itself
which is what this collection got inspiration largely from.
protection, taboo, circulation, water, chute, things arranged in systematic order such as stalls, tiles, affinity...
a series of highlight pieces displayed in each stall is the item whose lining is coupled together only on the bottom. the lining is made of transparent water repellent ripstop nylon. so if you are wearing the item and are caught in the rain, you can pull out the lining and u-turn it and make a rainwear of it. if the item is a jacket or coat, the lining has a retractable hood.
that way it may be convertible or utility gear rather than just reversible, double-faced, or mirrerd thing. of course it just looks cool. for example if it's leather jacket, the dry transparent ripstop goes well with leather, and it would be interesting when pulled out and tied around the waist.
it comes in various items like jacket, blazer, coat, trousers, shorts, etc.
and they are called "jacket-chute", "bomber-chute", "parka-chute", "shorts-chute", "trousers-chute", etc.
the lining is object-dyed and tape-seamed with elbow joints. it cannot be worn separately.
but instead there is a version without the lining available, and also the lining available by itself, named "autarchic parka".
each item could look like form and its own shadow when it is hung from the ceiling with the lining pulled out and falling to the floor. it's a bit of a spectacle.
also it's fantastic like ecdysis.
but if it's in a stall and the bottom tip is near the overflow and especially the bottom half is transparent, it might look as if it implied water circulation going from top to bottom. and variation of those clothing-chute's in respective stalls could look like variety among characters of human beings there in some way.
sometimes I don't really know if he is doing it seriously or is joking.
you know once there was a leather condom, e.g.
but I guess even if it's just a joke, at least he is doing it without cutting any corners.



my scan of a print

 

[runner]

the systematic arrangements (especially tiles) in lavatory were transferred into the crosshatching of the threads in ripstop and the arrangement of the perforations applied to the leather sole, etc.
there are no denim this season, but some heavy (for spring) cotton equivalent to denim is available. it comes in the box trousers/shorts and the style of denim jacket, named "cage jeans".
it too has perforations.
but if you look closely, they are punched out into square.


since this is another water collection in a way, the new boots are rain boots with rubber bands around the ankles, even though it's in name only.
basically they come in two upper styles.
one has a front wraparound flap, the other has an inside slit.
there are three sole types.
the usual sole except for being perforated,
moccasin (hard sole sewn up on the lower side) with heel,
full mocassin (without heel) set on sort of sandal (really the regular sole with rubber bands attached, so it's like the mocassin is wearing the sandal, sorry for my bad english) which is detachable.
besides those new things, the standard zippered boots and oxfords will be produced if ordered.
all is object-dyed.

every leather piece is available in five colors this spring
white (cream or ivory depending on leather)
yellow
olive-ish grey you might call drab (also the olive tone gets much weaker on goat, eg)
darker olive-ish grey
and black navy (dark dark navy)

there are four styles of leather jackets.
sort of signature "sports jacket"
bomber
short coat with a stand-up collar they call "parka"
jacket similar to the sports jkt, but a bit longer in length and more fitted, with a smaller collar.

only sports jkt is object-dyed and calf. it has evolved further.
elbow joint instead of the elbow patch. but all the joints applied to this collection have evolved as well into "allowances". it's more subtle and feels much lighter.
and "scars-stitched" instead of overlocked, in line with weight reduction again.
it's a fine work with a fine thread.
lastly it looked slightly shortened.

the rest are object-tanned, and come with or without the ripstop lining.
and they come in both goat and kangaroo, except the jacket with a smaller collar which comes only in goat.
they produce the perforated version with kangaroo.

plus there is a vest which is categorized as a bag.
if observed from the water angle, this "vest bag" can seem to parallel the stabiliser jacket you'd wear underwater, with shoulder straps, metal hook closure around the breast, two inflatable parts in the front as bags. the front bags have zippers where both sides meet.


will write about a few more technical facets later


stabiliser jkt
netshop.aqros.jp

 

[gius]

wow, interesting concept this season
the materials sounds like a lot of fun
thanks runner!

does object-dyed mean the object (shoe, shirt, etc.) is made first and then dyed?

 

[mass]

wow, interesting concept this season
the materials sounds like a lot of fun
thanks runner!

does object-dyed mean the object (shoe, shirt, etc.) is made first and then dyed?

yes.

 

[skot4mc]

thanks for taking the time to post this runner!

looking forward to more..

 

[Chinor1z]

Lovely written description Runner!

The pieces look great from this coming season... although I'm not certain how much I personally will buy due to the perforations hehehe.

The concepts are amazing and clean cut as always.

 

[Casius]

The yellow for this season is completely out of hand! haha It looks kinda cool for the gloves; Almost like those plastic things you would put on to clean your bathroom.

 

[runner]

you're welcome gius, skot

the rest are object-tanned, and come with or without the ripstop lining.
and they come in both goat and kangaroo, except the jacket with a smaller collar which comes only in goat.
they produce the perforated version with kangaroo.

Chinor1z, the way I wrote it was bad. sorry
I wanted to say you can choose the perforated version as well as the original (normal) version, with jackets which come in kangaroo.

 

[runner]

the elements here could also be bundled by words like sporty, industrial, utility, transplant...
to cite a few more instances, elastic hemed shirt, rubber band on boot, ripstop chute lining, polyester nonchute lining
vest/bag, townwear/rainwear, boot/sandal, shirt/coat, etc.
"sleeve trousers" where his tailored curved arms were transplanted into legs.
some items were edged/hemmed with glue.
and this idea of glue was extended as a design/embellishment to for example
"glued on seams" of pale colored lightweight cotton.
so the industrial/bandaid colored glue seeping dangerously through makes some trimming effect on seems, cuffs, collar, etc.
it could look polluted, but, maybe because the glue contrasts the tremendously conscientious finishing of the details, it can look even clean at the same time.



silver for S/S 08 includes:
clip necklace
clipboard necklace
necklace made of beaded silver aglets (lace of spun silver which is solid with silver aglets)
spring coin holder necklace in two size
the coin holder itself in large size
pantograph bracelet
pantograph ring in two sizes

the pantograph mechanics were applied to belts as well, but it's not sterling silver in this case.
it's a kind of folding thing like the gate below.
full metal pantograph belt,
half metal pantograph half object-tanned leather one,
and object-tanned one which has the mechanics only as a coupling between buckle and leather



brynick.en.alibaba.com

 

[runner]

my favorite is one-buttoned blazers.
they are par excellence.
light, crisp, and in my eyes the most beautiful ones I've ever seen.
what he had been inquiring into for a good while looked consummated.
there are some detail variations.
one of them is object-dyed. the first object-dyed fabric blazer from ccp, if I remember rightly. the seams are sealed with the thinnest clear tape ever.
also there is one that is filmed inside with translucent cellophane polyester lining.
and maybe the highlight is the "open seam". it's an applied use of the industrial sewing machine. it's like a kind of inside overlocking with the finest clear thread they could use with a piece of clothing.
and when it is done all along the back center seam line, it looks as if the long seam is magically open by a hair's breadth. it's subtle and breathtaking work.
(there are open seam trousers etc too)
btw, many of the blazers this season are ventilated and opened up under the arms.

the tape, lining, and thread remind me of the label of ccp that they were using earlier.
these things have a clearly artificial feel, but nonetheless there is a suggestion of blood about them somehow.
I guess that there is something slightly surgical there is part of why.
that might be just me. but it's one of the chief factors that make ccp ccp, for me.


also I liked a series of "seamless" tops.
it's similar to LUC's seamless things.
but they did it with knitting close to that of t-shirt jersey.
so the tops are actually piped around the neck etc just like typical t-shirt.
they are accented by ladder in the left side.
they seem cool and comfortable basics.

and I'd be happy to wear another series of tops made of the textile which looks like densely networked capillaries. they have elbow joints (allowances) and are glued on seams.
the textile seems like a spring version of the one that they used with the blazer and trousers in A/W 07 that was very soft. this time it feels a bit harsh though.
it comes in both cotton and ramie.

lastly the new jacket in goat.
it's so simple but the cut and fit are just to my taste.

except that I didn't like the new boots honestly,
this is one of my favorite collections where ccp's character is represented in a lighthearted way successfully.

 

[mikelowrey]

didn't stumble across this topic untill now.. thanks for the great info runner.

I've seen some images of the collection and the colours and tones are pretty nice, the yellow is way over my head but the natural whites, greys and especially the olive tones are beautiful. the perforations seem to have been taken to full extent even with boot soles being punched. I dont like it that much on the footwear or pants, but on some of the jackets it looked pretty cool.

the seams seem very interesting with the improved taping and other methods. hopefully they've tested them enough though, I personally had an unfortunate situation with the jointed trousers from the last season. they're made out of very paper-like cotton thats not woven but apparently pressed somehow. it feels cool, but its not very strong. my trousers got a small tear in a seam which was just because the stitching of course punches holes into the fabric and is held together from those holes. I was in touch with people at Poell and they had also found out about this issue. they would've fixed or exchanged it for me which was of course nice but I ended up fixing them myself. this is always a risk with new materials and methods, so I hope there won't be any issues with the glued seams and such this season.

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

Runner, I rly appreciate the detailed, extensive nature of all of your posts/topics. Very informative.

The concept is quite cool. I always love the unusual fabrics and hides incorporated into these collections. The gloves look quite sinisterly appealing! Can't wait to see more.

Thanks for posting, Runner.

 

[softgrey]

i had to look up ecdysis...

ec·dy·sis (ěk'dĭ-sĭs)
n. pl. ec·dy·ses (-sēz')
The shedding of an outer integument or layer of skin, as by insects, crustaceans, and snakes; molting.

we would normally say 'molting' when an animal is shedding its skin...ecdysis is a very scientific term that i have never heard before...
but it gives the image of the pieces and the 'chute' layers very well i think...
perhaps it is even a bit sinister, which seems appropriate...especially in such a setting as an old men's washroom/lavatory*...


*lavatory also sounds a bit sinister...(like laboratory)...and almost scientific...
really good description in that first post runner..
...

i never heard about the leather condom...
i would guess that he is being serious and having fun both at the same time...
perhaps his sense of humour is a bit different than that of the average person....more of a tim burton-esque sensibility...which finds humour and beauty in the bizarre and the macabre...

...

 

[softgrey]

runner,....
i just finished reading the rest of your posts here....
it's so good to hear you so excited...


i don't remember you being this excited about a collection in some time......

seems like they must have done a super job and there will be several things from this collection that you can add to your closet...

are you thinking about getting the goat jkt?
which style is the 'new one'...
and what colour are you thinking of getting?

**what about that vest/bag?
is it wearable or is it really too much like wearing scuba gear on the street?


**talking of 'surgical' things and blood reminds me again of tim burton...
because i have just seen the new movie 'sweeney todd' about the murderous barber and his shining razor blades and all the blood...etc...
it's that same 'vibe' or aesthetic somehow...
a barber shop, a laboratory, a lavatory...it's all hard tile and shiny steel...
and...
i definitely know what you mean about the suggestion of blood in the clothes...
i feel it too...


i can't wait to see these new things now that you have described them so wonderfully...
...

 

[chessmess]

are there images?
im interested in how deeply conceptual his collections are
they always seem to take place or reflect dilapitated areas.
they remind me of terrorism and torture for some reason...

 

[Casius]

The vest is wearable but then again, I guess that just depends on what you usually wear.
His collection this season is quite cool though. The perforated items are very inventive and it stretches from the inside of the jackets, bottoms of the shoes, leather on the shoes, to even the jeans.
Oh and the whole lavatory set up was kind of weird...belts were hanging from urinals as well as boots sitting next to them. The yellow color on some of the leather items also aided to the whole feel of the collection.

 

[gius]

thanks for your post, mikelowrey
i have heard other people's experiences on the paper-like fabric too, that it is very weak

i hope Poell can find some way of strengthening the material
it's too bad if it has to be discarded, since it sounds new and interesting

yet it's also not good to pay for something that's not durable enough

i love brittle, weak materials myself
but they may be a trouble for other people

 

[gius]

The vest is wearable but then again, I guess that just depends on what you usually wear.
His collection this season is quite cool though. The perforated items are very inventive and it stretches from the inside of the jackets, bottoms of the shoes, leather on the shoes, to even the jeans.
Oh and the whole lavatory set up was kind of weird...belts were hanging from urinals as well as boots sitting next to them. The yellow color on some of the leather items also aided to the whole feel of the collection.

Casius, you must be talking about the perforated leather, right?

 

[Casius]

The perforated items are not limited to leather. He did perforations on a ton of things in this collection, those of which I listed above. Belts, boots, soles of the boots, inside of jackets, and jeans.

 

[gius]

^Oh I was curious about the material
It's interesting its ability to stretch, when it's perforated