Celine F/W 2022.23 Paris

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[Frederic01]

Anthony Vaccarello truly is the superior womenswear designer out of these two. The Saint Laurent A/W 2022 show was spectacular compared to this.

The problem is that there is nothing really new here in this collection. I know we say that every season, but sincerely, this time it really is true...

 

[tricotineacetat]

I've come to expect that his womenswear comes as a by-product of his menswear and that the best pieces to in his women's collections are those that could have literally been borrowed from the boys - That being said, where the men's collection saw a return to a more glam rock star look (which is really what his best collections were all about), there is an element of the conservatism about his womenswear that I am not interested in at all...

 

[Norden]

I think he’s great at elevating the every day and making it look super cool. But honestly, these clothes are a lux version of apc with some evening wear thrown in.

 

[avonlea002]

No other designer can make clothes this basic look desirable.

 

[TianCouture]

**bUt tHe QuAlItY wHeN yOu sEe iT In StOrE iTs mOrE tHaN a HoDdIe**

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I think it was a good collection for what Celine is: a brand with elevated well-cut basics.

There is no point in comparing Vaccarello and Slimane as they work for two very different houses. SLP has more room for fantasy based on the history of YSL himself and its house whereas Celine always has been a small house known for its chic sportswear and minimalism.

So yes Hedi is not doing anything groundbreaking, he is off the fashion radar but people with money who need to dress know they can count on the brand.

 

[Lola701]

I feel like there’s some sort of connection between this collection and Nicolas’s FW2022 for Vuitton. It’s like they speak the same language with a different accent.
The real difference is that Vuitton pieces standout on their own. It make sense to broke them down and integrate them in your wardrobe.
This for me works as a proposition only on full Look. The strength of Hedi is his styling.

This is undeniably Parisienne bourgeois through the teenager side of the point of view. It’s late 70’s, 80’s, 90’s all mixed together but it works.

I’m not expecting anything from him anymore but I wish his eveningwear had more to offer than sequined spaghetti straps gown. And the heels were pedestrian at best.

I feel like this collection is a great compromise for a sophisticated Chloé or Isabel Marant customer who wants to elevate her look.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I always have a headache when I read some people here that find this -pile of garbage- desirable.
Oh, the bar is so low these days…

 

[Phuel]

This brand is such a well-oiled engine when it come to this principle of optimizing profits and minimizing risks, while still understanding the fashion dream.

His best for the women’s in a while. Much closer to the classic old-money meets rock royalty of his earlier offerings. Hedi’s clearly capable of higher creativity, but he knows who his clientele is and designs for her-- and all those who wish to be her: She’s the rebellious daughters from conservative wealth, goes out with “musicians”— and that’s where his Celine men comes in, with its more dramatic flair that’s the full preening, gaudy peacock to his plain-Jane hen.

The leathers, sequins and cocoon hoodie are sublime. And the branding is so impeccably slick and sleek it’s an education in itself.

 

[MulletProof]

**bUt tHe QuAlItY wHeN yOu sEe iT In StOrE iTs mOrE tHaN a HoDdIe**

I mean, yes, the jacket has like a sleeve full of gold sequins, and a cowboy fringe on the other sleeve, the front is all denim with tiny disco balls hanging from the neck and the back has a giant white graffiti that says ‘LET’S ROCKKK!! FOREVER YOUNG!! 2022!! WHOAAA!!’ but these are really classics that you can for like decades and for ANY occasion, it’s really high quality and in reality actually pretty subdued and elegant. I know we make fun of it online but I can’t think of a grown man looking at that jacket in person and not wanting to buy it. It just exudes confidence..

 

[Overindulgence]

The collection serves its purpose: desirable bags that will surely sell well, nice shoes, and well-made clothes that ultimately make the accessories the highlight. Overall, it's quite chic and looks expensive. The other day, I was thinking about what the current young rich girl "looks" are, at least in LA, and after some observation, there's 1) the Bella Hadid wannabe with the slicked back bun and Balenciaga Le Cagole and 2) The Celine by Hedi girl complete with a Celine Triomphe bag. There's something more wealthy to a girl when I see her with a Celine bag as opposed to a Chanel or any other designer bag. Nonetheless, I give Hedi credit, he always appeals to the rich kids.

I've come to accept that Celine's womenswear will be more tame compared to the menswear. And perhaps that's a smart business strategy. Celine's menswear is unisex anyways, so if a woman want the more couture and out-there pieces, they can surely go for those.

 

[Lola701]

Hedi’s clearly capable of higher creativity

Is he? In nearly 10 years of designing womenswear, I’ve yet to see even a glimpse of that creativity.
At this point, I’m not expecting anything. Maybe the Balenciaga-esque maxi hoodie dress is his rendition of « I’m creative guys ».

 

[Uemarasan]

It’s a commercial proposition. Nothing more, nothing less. Wear these clothes as you read the newest chic book recommended by Lithub and listen to that edgy band recommended by Spotify’s algorithms. Then upload the selfies and videos on Instagram or TikTok for likes.

This is the kind of cultural malaise and demise of sex Eliot decried in The Waste Land a hundred years ago.

 

[Phuel]

Is he? In nearly 10 years of designing womenswear, I’ve yet to see even a glimpse of that creativity.
At this point, I’m not expecting anything. Maybe the Balenciaga-esque maxi hoodie dress is his rendition of « I’m creative guys ».

YSL Men, Dior Homme, Celine Men were/are mighty solid indications of high, refined creativity. And women can easily wear all the menswear, and have.

(As for his womenswear efforts. Always was underwhelmed by it since his SL debut. Then realized that he was clearly designing for a certain type of clientele that wouldn’t be interested in wearing a sweater with 4 sleeves or others such nonsense. Every single piece of clothing from Hedi from the very beginning of his career were meant to be worn and not just showpieces. That is so much more appreciated and more thoughtful, as far as I’m concerned.)

 

[Frederic01]

FASHION | 3 HOURS AGO | BY JACK MOSS

Celine’s latest collection captures the essence of Parisian style
The latest filmic runway show from creative director Hedi Slimane sees a collection of contrasts backdropped by Paris’ historic Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel des Invalides



‘Dans Paris’, reads the title card for Hedi Slimane’s latest filmic outing for Celine, presenting the house’s A/W 2022 womenswear collection in lieu of a physical runway show. After a brief sortie to the sunny south of France last season – Slimane’s S/S 2022 collection was shown against the picturesque backdrop of Nice’s famed beachfront avenue Promenade Des Anglais – it sees the Celine woman once again supplanted to her spiritual home city of Paris.

Juxtapositions have defined Slimane’s tenure at Celine thus far: the insouciance of youth with feats of age-old Parisian craft, masculine with feminine, grit with romance. Here, contrast is envisioned in architecture and interiors, the film’s opening shots cutting between the Romanesque pillars of the historic Hôtel de la Marine – a building conceived in the 18th century by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, the architect behind Versailles’ Le Petit Trianon and the ‘epitome of French classicism’, as Celine describes – and the angular modernist columns of an ephemeral ‘architectural pavilion’ showspace created for the film in the grounds of Hôtel des Invalides. (Imagined by Slimane, it is the first new structure of its kind from the house since his inaugural Celine show in 2018, and perhaps hints at a possible return to the runway in coming seasons.)

Celine A/W 2022: A return to Paris



The film captures the collection between these juxtaposed locations, models striding at once through the lavish gilded interiors of Hôtel de la Marine’s Salons d’Apparat – marking the first time a fashion show or campaign has taken place in the highly decorative rooms since an extensive renovation – and the interior of Slimane’s pavilion, an expansive black-walled space edged with vertical pillars of light. Cut together, it provides an apt backdrop for a collection that distils the designer’s contemporary play on classic Parisian style.

Such moments of contrast are found in the collection itself, epitomised in the opening look, comprising a caped top – its generosity of fabric and elegant line recalling the abundance of couture – worn with a pair of frayed-hem jeans (a requisite pair of cats-eye sunglasses complete the look). Elsewhere, a wide-shouldered tailored jacket is thrown over a plunging sequined party dress; a Celine-branded technical anorak worn with a glimmering silver pencil skirt; lug-soled biker boots with a high-glamour off-the-shoulder leather mini. A clean-lined riff on the corset top in black appears throughout; worn with jeans or underneath a hoodie, it feels released from connotations with constriction – the past, made new.

As ever, Slimane also used the moment to highlight a rising musical talent – this season, the soundtrack was created by Hennessey, the musical project of Leah Hennessey, a New York ‘multi-hyphenate artist and writer’. The song itself is titled ‘Byron is Dead’, part of an ongoing obsession with the 19th-century poet by the musician (her upcoming film is titled Byron & Shelley: Illuminati Detectives). Lisa, a member of K-pop band Blackpink, also features in the show itself.

WALLPAPER*

 

[Uemarasan]

He’s definitely where he deserves to be: at a brand that has epitomized and apologized for the ennui of the bourgeois class for much of its lifetime. These are clothes for Karens and Karens-in-waiting that take delight in the occasional and artificial frisson of “sex, rebellion, and rock and roll” without real commitment, all courtesy of the usual bloodsucking corporations.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

A very complete collection. Slimane is delivering his modern, ultra-chic vision for the contemporary woman without any need to prove anything. I am here for it and loved the collection.

Wait, I am sorry, I clearly don’t know what I am talking about. Rather, let me bash him over the fact that he, designed a hoodie, a pair of jeans, A TRACK JACKET?!?!?! Poor taste Slimane. After all you WERE brought to Celine with a goal to hit a certain sales figure for a house in growth mode, so why oh why would you offer customers core items as a way to hit this target??

Tisk Tisk Hedi, you have clearly fallen off and catered to a demographic that some stranger on the internet believes is beneath you.

For anyone without any sense of business or practical knowledge of how this industry ACTUALLY works it would appear that Hedi has compromised. The “best years of his career are behind him”. He designs “H&M, Zara” level work. Give me a break. He obviously couldn’t care less about a Celine logo printed cotton hoodie. He is using that as a means to support his HC line and grow this business, you know, the reason he was originally brought here.

His last menswear showing was great, this collection too, but yes, rather than critically analyze his work, it is so much easier to whine and moan that his strategy consists of the every-day “boring” wadrobe staple. The empty criticisms have become so dull. If you want to drag him down please bring something new or at least thoughtful to the table rather than just relying on something someone on Twitter said.

 

[Lola701]

YSL Men, Dior Homme, Celine Men were/are mighty solid indications of high, refined creativity. And women can easily wear all the menswear, and have.

(As for his womenswear efforts. Always was underwhelmed by it since his SL debut. Then realized that he was clearly designing for a certain type of clientele that wouldn’t be interested in wearing a sweater with 4 sleeves or others such nonsense. Every single piece of clothing from Hedi from the very beginning of his career were meant to be worn and not just showpieces. That is so much more appreciated and more thoughtful, as far as I’m concerned.)

He is untouchable in menswear but I have simply never been impressed by his womenswear even if I bought some stuff from his Saint Laurent. And you know I don’t care about jackets with three sleeves…My favorite designers are far from the Hussein Chalayan type.
I just find it lazy. If only he excited my eyes with some drapes, plisses or classic Couture techniques…Here nothing.

But I understand his Celine. And his eye for presentation will always make his proposition somehow tangible.

There are some great pieces and the styling is clever as usual but it lacks something.

 

[Frederic01]

Some more looks, courtesy of CR Fashion Book...


CR FASHION BOOK