Céline F/W 2015.16 Paris

[|PerfectTonight|]

Fantastic, interesting and fresh.

There are definitely new ideas here. The shoes are phenomenal. The best thing about the collection is that it craves examination up close.

 

[Creative]

Thank god we have Phoebe. This was the only FASHION moment of the whole four 'fashion' weeks...

 

[ultramarine]

I havent seen a collection this strong since ... maybe when Lee showed? The show is packed full of ideas and has I think everything translated beautiful into clothes and accesories. I am extremelly pleased to see collections like these in the time we live in. The accesories are to die for. All of them.

 

[Morphe]

I want some of that good sh** that you folks are smoking rn.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

They were some VERY nice coats and fabulous in this collection. Not the complete best collection, but definitely some great wearable pieces here. Those huge bags are going to be the next it-bags.

 

[Cosmic Voices]

Those gun bags reminded me a lot of Alexander Wang AW14

style.com

It was a pretty messy collection overall, but I appreciate Phoebe's attempt at trying to veer away from the minimal. I find the fur pom poms just plain bizarre to be honest, but I loved the injection of animal print and the foliage (feather) jacquards.

 

[Spike413]

Am I in the minority of people who miss the good old days when Phoebe was creating well crafted, easy looking and largely flattering clothes that weren't at all difficult to picture on any number of women?

It was a simpler time...

 

[Gaultier_Bandit]

Knitwear that make breast look really unflattering. Groundbreaking!

 

[Nomar]

In love with that leather trench because it just looks freaking amazing. A bit hit and miss here for me but I also thought the animal prints were quite nice along with those strappy dresses, especially the contrast one.

 

[gossiping]

I want some of that good sh** that you folks are smoking rn.

me too

i love phoebe and her ideas but they just don't translate into clothes you want to wear and look good in

 

[jescajade]

very interesting, I like the concept behind it, and Phoebe's experimentation, not all of it works but it feels fresh and exciting.

 

[MON]

I like the fact that there are new ideas mixed with classic, BUT I hate some of the looks that are far too busy!

 

[olive]

Am I in the minority of people who miss the good old days when Phoebe was creating well crafted, easy looking and largely flattering clothes that weren't at all difficult to picture on any number of women?

It was a simpler time...

I'm with you- first at Chloe, then in her first few years at Celine, Phoebe made beautiful clothes, which you wanted to wear. Maybe it wasn't "fashion" as some people define it, but it was flattering and desirable. This is just a mess. There are a few individual pieces I like (mainly the printed shirts and the slip dresses) but the rest is just a shapeless mish-mash of various influences.

 

[gazebo]

I can't figure out what am I looking at.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Cathy Horyn's review:

What Is Too Much? What Is Enough? What Looks Authentic?
By Cathy Horyn

Phoebe Philo, in a powerful, sure-footed statement today for Céline, finally addressed one of the most stubborn problems in fashion: how to make sexy clothes that don’t sexualize a woman — that have a definite sense of glamour but also relate to how we live.

The show was probably Philo's broadest, most free expression yet of the kinds of things she likes; layered knits, a flair for surprising proportions, and accessories that throw everything off-kilter. You could tell from the opening outfits that Philo was pushing things with more self-assurance than she's ever pushed them — the wide-leg trousers with broken floral appliqués shown with clingy but comfy ribbed sweaters; the simple wool office dresses hemmed at the knee and worn with sneakers were bold questions about the notions of glamour. This was the first time her whole show made sense to me, and when I practically ran backstage to talk to her about it afterward, she explained that she and her design team began this season with a list of questions. What is too much? What is it not enough? And what looks authentic?

It seems to me that kind of hard-core questioning has been missing in fashion, which explains why so many runway collections lately look tentative or disconnected from women’s lives. Many designers have a one-dimensional view of glamour that boils down to t*ts and fringe. They seem oblivious that many women evoke glamour in a single gesture — the way, say, we cinch a good-looking coat at the waist or let a loose top reveal a hint of collarbone. One was always aware of the body in Philo's show, even when it was mostly covered up. Sometimes, too, the telling gesture was red lipstick, worn by only a handful of the models — an effective nod to how wonderfully variable and unpredictable women can be in their self-presentation.

Indeed, what I most appreciated about this collection was its variety. There were outfits for women whose style isn’t dressy, like the wool ponchos worn with knock-around skirts and shown with big shopper totes in a mixture of colors or textures. But then there were the double-layered slip dresses in three-tone washed silk, some worn with a long, ropelike boa finished with fur pom-poms the size of melons. Both the slip and the pom-poms were more typically elegant, but in seriously questioning the elements — and, literally, turning the fur into something playful on a string — Philo captured the complexity of a woman's desire to be at once chic, playful, smart, and, yes, glamourous.

Céline is one of the very few successful brand revivals of the past decade, which includes attempts by Carven, Maiyet, Schiaparelli, and more — while other names, like Rochas and Vionnet, replace their talent often enough to appear as avaricious as a Hollywood studio on its fifth horror sequel. But is there really a market for Vionnet’s clumsy drapery? I wondered the same about Guillaume Henry's peacoats and T-shirt dresses at Nina Ricci, though they were nice enough. Henry is the new guy at Ricci, replacing Peter Copping, who went to Oscar de la Renta. More than half a century ago, when Christian Dior suddenly died, there was an economic imperative to keep his house going and promote Yves Saint Laurent. After the New Look appeared, in 1947, Dior’s sales accounted for roughly half of France’s fashion exports.

But today these old brands mainly seem to clog the fashion system, discouraging young talent and new ideas. That’s why Jonathan Anderson’s overhaul of Loewe stands out. After only one year at the house, he gives you a reason to take notice, generously offering up new ideas for dressing, like wide-leg trousers in herringbone worn with very cool blousons in leather or what appeared to be papery cotton, the collars folded back or done as cowls.

Anderson basically had three ideas in this collection, and that was enough: slouchy trousers and the chic blouson, a slim leather coat in icy pastels worn with matching pants, and a rather divine knee-length shirt dress in pleated metallic silk worn with black trousers. But you’re free to play and wear the dress alone. And hey, an economy of design is never a bad thing.

nymag

 

[squilliam]

Am I in the minority of people who miss the good old days when Phoebe was creating well crafted, easy looking and largely flattering clothes that weren't at all difficult to picture on any number of women?

It was a simpler time...

I miss those days too. I feel like we've seen so much bad and boring fashion all over that we've lowered our standards significantly. This is just ugly, and not in a weird ugly/pretty prada or Comme des Garçons kind of way, it's just plain ugly

 

[gazebo]

 

[cyberprada]

Finally a decent collection. Or maybe it was horrible ? I don't know, I wasn't expecting anything good by Phoebe Philo anymore so maybe I was just pleasantly surprised. I like how some silhouettes are really simple yet sophisticated, that's what I liked about her first collections for Céline. I really liked the white sneakers and most of the accessories. The first looks were great also.

 

[MulletProof]

preach, cathy!... especially in the last part that isn't even about céline but the state of things.

 

[masquerade]

This is the first time Celine has really piqued my interest in quite a few seasons.