Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

Even Caroline de Maigret looks miserable in that coat
 
How come the ateliers don't make it perfect? It's intentionally homely?!

Absolutely intentional. That atelier can spin straw into pure gold otherwise.

She seems to bounce between frumpy, dumpy homeliness and cheap Hot Topic commonness. It’s equally as hilarious as it’s depressing. Nothing against her as a person nor of her seemingly successful rebranding of Chanel. However, Virginie is living proof that one can be surrounded by the absolute masterclass of atelier and its expensive archive; with access to the excesses of the finest craftspeople; and all the privileges that her rarified world would afford-- and she still produces such delirious cheapness and mundaneness. She’s Homer Simpsons as a designer.

This collection is the high school sewing club somewhere in Arkansas, maybe sometime in the early-90s but because it’s the midwest, they’re still dressing like it’s 1988, took over Chanel; complete with huge elastic-waistband, one-size-fits-all proportions, middle-school-sewing-class-with-Vogue-Pattern level of basic. And modelling the physique of skinny arms and wide hips and a dumpy, pot-belly. And completing the look with DIY Dollarama straw boaters and Michael’s floral arrangement baskets. It’s hilarious.

At this point, it’s a treat to see what sad part of the suburbs of Paris-- or what humdrum midwestern American mall she’ll be inspired by next.
 

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