Chanel - The All-Things Chanel Thread

[jeanclaude]

He should pay attention to his own house instead of Chanel... in that case.

True!

 

[Lola701]

Chanel beauty should work with Sofia. As much as I’m tired with the very juvenile allure of Chanel, she is a fantastic commercial director.

 

[PDFSD]

The Coppola film is probably one of best thing happened to this brand for a long time.

don't you think it looks like a high budget Influencer ad video meets Celine by Hedi /post Hedi

 

[FashionPower]

Sofia Coppola been milking that one internship at Chanel with Karl for 30 years now...yawn

 

[Lola701]

Sofia Coppola been milking that one internship at Chanel with Karl for 30 years now...yawn

She is not milking it enough….
I would have preferred to have a Sofia collection instead of the Pharrell one.

 

[tricotineacetat]

She is not milking it enough….
I would have preferred to have a Sofia collection instead of the Pharrell one.

That would have made for a lovely interim project at Chanel - Letting close associates with the house develop something in collaboration with the existing teams. Women like Daphne Guinness, Tilda Swinton and yes, also Sofia Coppola. It‘s really a missed chance!

 

[HigthaVandah]

don't you think it looks like a high budget Influencer ad video meets Celine by Hedi /post Hedi

I know I've asked before, but do we know who's been doing the recent Celine campaign photos? It's been a surprisingly smooth transition, campaign-wise.

 

[Lola701]

That would have made for a lovely interim project at Chanel - Letting close associates with the house develop something in collaboration with the existing teams. Women like Daphne Guinness, Tilda Swinton and yes, also Sofia Coppola. It‘s really a missed chance!

Sofia did a collab with Barrie (the Chanel owned cashmere brand, which had the Paris Edimburgh collection based around) as Augustin Dolmaillot is the CD (he is part of the Chanel studio) but I think it would have been more relevant indeed to have her work for Chanel.
Maybe less a fan of Daphne Guinness as a collaborator (because she is a client above all) but I get your point.

I know I've asked before, but do we know who's been doing the recent Celine campaign photos? It's been a surprisingly smooth transition, campaign-wise.

Karim Sadli and they are still probably using Hedi’s shots for the accessories. They normally can still use them as they are still promoting the SS2025.

But Celine’s official new Creative Direction hasn’t started yet in terms of communication.

 

[chrisand489]

I know Chanel is giving cupcake vibe, but my brain screamed pink poop when I first saw it lol

 

[couturefan]

Chanel Shrinkage​

Lauren Sherman
May 19, 2025

---

The Chanel Tell​

As I mentioned briefly last week, Chanel is getting ready to release its 2024 revenue numbers, and I’m told the company is set to report a sales dip of about 4 percent. (I’m caveating this by saying that books can be readjusted at the very last minute. A rep for the company did not comment.) This slight shrinkage shouldn’t surprise anyone. Last year, especially the final quarter, was incredibly challenging for the soft luxury industry, as evidenced by disappointing numbers at competitors, including Dior and Gucci. However, Chanel’s performance suggests that the consumer sees the brand not as a materials business (like Hermès or Loro Piana) or pure fashion (Alaïa) but rather something in the middle—a messy space that many have backed away from. Chanel is too expensive to be generic, and the company hired Matthieu Blazy to recalibrate the fashion part of the business. The accessories—especially the shoes—remain desirable, and it’ll be Blazy’s job to direct customers toward them. Fragrance and beauty is a more challenging market. Recall that Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl franchise surpassed Chanel’s Chance as the most popular fragrance line in the U.S.

Source: puck.news

 

[Caffeine]

Bloomberg:

• Chanel Ltd.'s operating profit fell 30% to $4.48 billion last year, with revenue declining 4.3% on a comparable basis, due to expanded retail network and marketing efforts amid a luxury industry downturn.
• The company was hit hard by macroeconomic volatility, particularly in China, where sales fell 7.1%, and is adjusting its structure to stabilize margins, with flat headcount expected this year.
• Chanel invested heavily in capital expenditures and brand support activities last year, including property acquisitions, and plans to invest similarly this year, while holding off on price increases in the US pending a final decision on Trump's tariffs.

They are doing everything now except for making the quality (including design quality) higher

 

[chrisand489]

 

[Lola701]

18 billion is still great though.
Contrary to what people say, quality is not so much an issue to me because controversies or not, the brand has an aura.

This is Chanel without a real creative direction, without hit shows or hit products. So there’s a resilience and an appreciation from customers. I haven’t bought the RTW since Virginie took over for example but I continue to buy fragrances or version of shoes I already have.

What Blazy will do is bring back that more trend-driven customer.

IMO, Chanel and Dior will be the brands that will benefit the most out of all with debuts.

Chanel is still bigger than Hermes, than Gucci and probably as big as Louis Vuitton.

I don’t think those brands will have incredible rise in the future. They will have to develop other markets with their less patrimonial activities.

 

[Creative]

I think it’s normal tho… they are living in a grey era. If MB is strong enough they will get over it, but I have strong doubts.

Also, it’s not a destination for chic people anymore. In the past they had every kind of client, I feel the chic ones are buying other things now. They go to Hermes, BV… but not Chanel.

I see no desire for their bags either.

To me this is only due to the lack of good management. Their beauty business is also super cheap now and not very aspirational anymore.

In the past you’d love to have a Chanel lipstick but now you rather have Tom Ford or other brands…

Seeing those numbers and considering in the corporate world a healthy business is one that is positive vs LY, I am even more sure now that they will launch menswear.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I still think it is aspirational. At least around me, I know several women whose first option for a bag would be Chanel.

So, to me, the problems at Chanel are not related to a damaged aura (although the worst looks that we are seeing at Cannes are by Chanel) or a lack of creative vision.
They are more profound because they are common to many other heritage houses that followed the same strategies in the last years and are experiencing now stagnation.

This won't be magically solved with Mathieu's debut next fall.

 

[jeanclaude]

Bloomberg:

• Chanel Ltd.'s operating profit fell 30% to $4.48 billion last year, with revenue declining 4.3% on a comparable basis, due to expanded retail network and marketing efforts amid a luxury industry downturn.
• The company was hit hard by macroeconomic volatility, particularly in China, where sales fell 7.1%, and is adjusting its structure to stabilize margins, with flat headcount expected this year.
• Chanel invested heavily in capital expenditures and brand support activities last year, including property acquisitions, and plans to invest similarly this year, while holding off on price increases in the US pending a final decision on Trump's tariffs.

They are doing everything now except for making the quality (including design quality) higher

giphy.

 

[90sfan]

Why is anyone surprised?!? They havent had a designer since Karl, they hired Inez and Vinoudh for creative, and they always result in brand damage

 

[Lola701]

I think it’s normal tho… they are living in a grey era. If MB is strong enough they will get over it, but I have strong doubts.

Also, it’s not a destination for chic people anymore. In the past they had every kind of client, I feel the chic ones are buying other things now. They go to Hermes, BV… but not Chanel.

I see no desire for their bags either.

To me this is only due to the lack of good management. Their beauty business is also super cheap now and not very aspirational anymore.

In the past you’d love to have a Chanel lipstick but now you rather have Tom Ford or other brands…

Seeing those numbers and considering in the corporate world a healthy business is one that is positive vs LY, I am even more sure now that they will launch menswear.

Chic people going to Hermes? If Hermes is doing those numbers, it’s precisely because chic people are not to the sole consumers. People buys those brands because they can afford to buy it. People ranting about the quality of bag on the internet aren’t spending 3/4K on a cardigan or 7/9K on a jacket.

But it’s indeed time to put some class back into the house and maybe evoke youth without feeling juvenile.

I don’t know if they have to launch a proper menswear. Maybe they should start by few looks but more than that, expand the availability of the products. Producing bigger sizes on their shoes, doing either a real bag for men or at least a unisex bag.

 

[Caffeine]

People ranting about the quality of bag on the internet aren’t spending 3/4K on a cardigan or 7/9K on a jacket.

hmm but I do and so do many other long time rtw customers. The 7/9k jackets a few years ago were simply better made than the 7/9k jackets today. It didn't start with VV. It was all after the mass market consumer brand CEO took over. Guess what, I and many others have eyes to see the difference, and it's not even subtle.

 

[Lola701]

hmm but I do and so do many other long time rtw customers. The 7/9k jackets a few years ago were simply better made than the 7/9k jackets today. It didn't start with VV. It was all after the mass market consumer brand CEO took over. Guess what, I and many others have eyes to see the difference, and it's not even subtle.

I have witness changes but I have simply stopped buying. No point in ranting about it.
I think consumers have to be informed but now there’s a lot of misinformation for example. I bought my bags when they stopped doing the gold plate. I have my first classic bags for 17 years now. But I can’t say that the quality is decreasing because of that for example.

The thing is that at some point the prices influenced our reactions. I have found some cute pieces from Virginie but I wouldn’t spend 7K for a tweed jacket today. And tbh, I’m not sure I would even if it’s Blazy.

I love Chanel but personally, I feel like Chanel has outpriced itself for the amount I’m willing to pay at full retail price for a single item.

But then again, I’m not spending 10K on a classic or 2:55 today and I’m not spending 9K on a jacket.