Plus I think MGC has stayed close to Monsieur Dior's style here. He was always about traditional delicate femininity after all, to the chagrin of Chanel. It's YSL and Chanel who should be the ones propelling modernity forward, not Dior which was about grandiose luxury after wartime rationing.
Is it that staying close to Monsieur Dior? I think staying close to a designer's aesthetic is more than doing everytime the silhouette of his most emblematic show. It's also understanding him and getting his spirit...So, in that aspect, i don't think she is staying close to Dior.
The ligne Corolle was in 1947 and luckily, in his career, Christian Dior did many things, changed his shape but with the same principle. It is known that every season has a new line. I think he did "La ligne H".
Dior by YSL had the spirit of Monsieur Dior but it wasn't "New Look 1947". The same for Dior by Marc Bohan. I don't think women in the 70's wanted to look like the ones from the 50's. And even if Gianfranco Ferre's Dior revived the idea of the 50's, it was more on the grandeur and excess.
Look at Galliano, as soon as he started to do the New Look 1947, it was the beginning of the end.
Every house has to live and has to be pushed forward.
Even what you said about Saint Laurent...He was the first "retro" designer. The most forward thing he did in his career was the beatnik collection at Dior. It was so forward thinking that it was badly received.
The 70's were very inspired by the 40's. Girls going to the flea market and buying vintage clothes, using codes of seduction and things like that influenced designer. The 1971 Liberation collection was only shocking because it was Haute Couture and he was talking to an audience that wasn't receptive of it. But, it's that collection that pushed his Rive Gauche line because it was so "on the moment". That being said, he still pushed things and the idea of the Saint Laurent woman forward.
Dior under Raf and under MGC is disappointing because they don't understand the spirit of Dior.
Riccardo understood the spirit of Givenchy...That's why it worked. McQueen as outrageous and genius he was, didn't get it and it flopped. And when i say spirit, it's the man, his environment and the designs.