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Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2019.20 Paris

And... I browsed through Valentino’s Tokyo collection, compared that to this, and my conclusion is it feels like MGC lifted a lot of her ex-partner’s looks, changed it from red to black, went minimalist on them, and send them out on the runway this time.
 
I like her choice of fabrics and some clothes are mildly interesting. But that's where it ends.
I
don't know what Maria's clothes represent? Feminism? What difference has she made to clothes women wear besides some slogans? In show notes and interviews, it might seem to one that there is a lot going on in Maria's head. As if she genuinely wants to be revolutionary. But the clothes are so static and outdated that it seems her idea of the modern woman and her clothes for the same woman is a complete disconnect.

To Maria's Dior and her feminism I say "no thank you" . I'd rather watch the RTW shows of Loewe, Celine, The Row and Prads to see what thoughtful women's wear looks like.
 
Have you all watched the video of the runway? If you haven’t, please and pay attention to that opening ‘slogan’ look...

Realized something...?? No... your eyes are not playing a trick on you. Yes, it’s the bottom of that look... it’s strange, it’s weird, it’s out of the ordinary (in a bad way).

Believe in what you’d saw. Don’t let the press or Dior PR or anyone tell you otherwise. It’s not like what they are telling you...

No. The bottom is not a well tailored skirt with high slit at the back.

Yes. Our dear Maria Grazia Chiuri just sent out a piece of cloth wrapped around Ruth Bell’s waist on a look with the slogan ‘are clothes modern?’ and call it haute couture.

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My main critique is that I can almost never tell what her point of view or voice is in her work.
 
the cardboard look... i don't.....


as for the rest, it's not that it's ugly - it's not, i like many dresses and the outerwear - it's just that it's *nothing*
 
Some looks are nice but that's it. There is no excitement in her clothes, might as well present it all on a lookbook and it would've been the same...
 
After watching this Dior Couture documentary, i feel sorry for these creative and talented people who now work under Maria Grazia Chiuri's uninspiring direction...
 
Must admit that this was the first collection from MGC that I was able to tolerate and get through the entire live stream until the very end... and glad I did because that Avenue Montaigne finale look (as questionable and tacky as it is) did at least put a smile on my face after a mass of black dresses.

Who edited their comment from yesterday which read Maria Disgrazia? Was it you @[B]perhydrol[/B]? Absolutely took me OUT!
 
IBasically she’s not Yohji Yamamoto nor Rick Owens she should not attempt any monochromatic collection, she just doesn’t have the intellect to do so.

AMEN. She has no business doing a gothic collection like the masters, this came out tasteless/depressing/offensive.

That's the only thing she's given to the fashion world -- doing it so poorly you appreciate others more.
 
Though I haven't been a fan of her body of work at Dior I do like this 'final' collection. It's highly wearable for the red carpet and I think the vast majority of public figures like actresses would reach for something here rather than an outlandish archive one by Galliano. Money talks. I've yet to see any critics offering to donate to Dior so they don't have to make sales and it can be a purely conceptual collection. At the end of the day fashion is a business not something obscure for private collections. Plus I think MGC has stayed close to Monsieur Dior's style here. He was always about traditional delicate femininity after all, to the chagrin of Chanel. It's YSL and Chanel who should be the ones propelling modernity forward, not Dior which was about grandiose luxury after wartime rationing.
 
I bet Anna Wintour loved the blackness :-D What can I say? inoffensive?
 
Plus I think MGC has stayed close to Monsieur Dior's style here. He was always about traditional delicate femininity after all, to the chagrin of Chanel. It's YSL and Chanel who should be the ones propelling modernity forward, not Dior which was about grandiose luxury after wartime rationing.
Is it that staying close to Monsieur Dior? I think staying close to a designer's aesthetic is more than doing everytime the silhouette of his most emblematic show. It's also understanding him and getting his spirit...So, in that aspect, i don't think she is staying close to Dior.

The ligne Corolle was in 1947 and luckily, in his career, Christian Dior did many things, changed his shape but with the same principle. It is known that every season has a new line. I think he did "La ligne H".
Dior by YSL had the spirit of Monsieur Dior but it wasn't "New Look 1947". The same for Dior by Marc Bohan. I don't think women in the 70's wanted to look like the ones from the 50's. And even if Gianfranco Ferre's Dior revived the idea of the 50's, it was more on the grandeur and excess.
Look at Galliano, as soon as he started to do the New Look 1947, it was the beginning of the end.

Every house has to live and has to be pushed forward.

Even what you said about Saint Laurent...He was the first "retro" designer. The most forward thing he did in his career was the beatnik collection at Dior. It was so forward thinking that it was badly received.

The 70's were very inspired by the 40's. Girls going to the flea market and buying vintage clothes, using codes of seduction and things like that influenced designer. The 1971 Liberation collection was only shocking because it was Haute Couture and he was talking to an audience that wasn't receptive of it. But, it's that collection that pushed his Rive Gauche line because it was so "on the moment". That being said, he still pushed things and the idea of the Saint Laurent woman forward.

Dior under Raf and under MGC is disappointing because they don't understand the spirit of Dior.

Riccardo understood the spirit of Givenchy...That's why it worked. McQueen as outrageous and genius he was, didn't get it and it flopped. And when i say spirit, it's the man, his environment and the designs.
 

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