Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris

[Vitamine W]

I think Maria is just designing things she know and pretty much her designs language. Then marketing comes in. Examine the collection. Find some hooks. Voila, a marketing tagline for each collection. She the first female CD at Dior, let's continue the feminist movement. Marketing add some slogan tees to match the piles of tulle skirts. That's it. The house of Dior today. Nothing is about creativity. Just a money machine.

This is exactly what's happening and the suits couldn't laugh harder at our pathetic couture melancholia. Dior Femme is purely about the exchange of currency.
At least Kim can have some fun at Homme since there's no substantial ready-to wear money to be made there anyway.

 

[gazebo]

This is exactly what's happening and the suits couldn't laugh harder at our pathetic couture melancholia.

I feel so pathetic decrying this. We are just a bunch of grumpy old ladies; which, ironically, would fit perfectly in these clothes.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The opening and closing looks are quite lovely. Too bad everything in between is an absolute nightmare.

 

[Benn98]

Vanessa Friedman

Since 2016, when she became the first female artistic director of the house, Ms. Chiuri has made it her mission to champion the feminist cause, creating logo tees based on the equality-challenging words of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and the poet Robin Morgan, and backdrops with the artist and poet Tomaso Binga. Ms. Chicago (whom Ms. Chiuri called one of the women who most influenced her), is now part of the gang.

In addition to the structure itself, the interior was hung with 21 heraldic banners designed by the artist and woven by a school of female embroiderers in India (where embroidery has traditionally been a male profession) that is supported by Dior. The banners were emblazoned with more questions: “Would There Be Violence?” “Would There Be Equal Parenting?” “Would God Be Female?”

Maybe a more apropos query, however, would be: If women ruled the world, what would they wear?

This is, after all, the question that fashion, in its constantly changing iterations, purports to answer. It is certainly the question at the heart of couture, designed, as it is, to the specifications of each individual.

Ms. Chiuri’s answer? Flat shoes.

Clothes with all the stuffing taken out. Roman gowns in gold lamé and silken fringe, with jacquard shorts beneath instead of a slip. T-shirts of sheer tulle scrimmed by elaborate scrollwork atop tiers of pewter silk in a Greek key motif. Chiffon slips hanging from twists of rope at one shoulder. Waltzing dresses embroidered with sheaves of wheat. Bracelets that snaked, literally, up the arm. A finale look featuring a burnished moon rising over a sea of midnight blue beads.

Also metallic jacquard pantsuits that gave the Bar some boardroom chic. Imagine Minerva in Davos, and you will get the idea.

Still, it was hard not to wonder: If women ruled the world, wouldn’t they deserve clothes that redefined them entirely, instead of making them look like slightly more modern versions of deities gone by? The point of learning from history is not to repeat it. Yet at the couture, perhaps because it is often seen as fashion’s umbilical cord to the past, designers can’t seem to stop.

New York Times

 

[Sai]

wow this is tragic.
so matronly and sad.
all made for a wedding boutique in a suburban mall.

 

[McKinney]

I hate it so much and its not even Maria's fault. Just like politics, we get what we deserve; if the common consumer is a philistine and they've decided Walmart haute couture (Dior) is art, who are we to step in and ruin their fascination? I'm clearly in the minority, so I'll get back in my place and cry myself to sleep

 

[disco54]

A true Greek Tragedy lol

OMG this b!tch cannot do Grecian dresses to save her life she ended up making them so stuffy and matronly. Look at Alber Elbaz's work at Lanvin or even Donatella's Versace to see Grecian dresses done right.

 

[CommanderTMugler]

Geezus Christ, the utter bashing in this thread. Its not the crazy out there Galliano couture that everyone admires but it’s a very wearable, solid and cohesive collection. It will be all over the red carpet.

It does look a lot like PPP’s Valentino but you can still see the New Look here and there. I prefer couture to be fitted and wearable than the crazy over sized/extra wrinkly fabric trend that is taking over couture lately, also thanks to PPP.

Its simple enough to make, the custom alterations are not too complicated for the customer and they can charge crazy prices given the Dior name and experience. At the end whoever buys this will get a custom fitted gown/suit that flatters them, won’t think about it too much, just enough to make them happy and the Atelier to breeze through it and look presentable with bragging rights of a couture piece.

 

[lowfive1715]

Geezus Christ, the utter bashing in this thread. Its not the crazy out there Galliano couture that everyone admires but it’s a very wearable, solid and cohesive collection. It will be all over the red carpet.

It does look a lot like PPP’s Valentino but you can still see the New Look here and there. I prefer couture to be fitted and wearable than the crazy over sized/extra wrinkly fabric trend that is taking over couture lately, also thanks to PPP.

Its simple enough to make, the custom alterations are not too complicated for the customer and they can charge crazy prices given the Dior name and experience. At the end whoever buys this will get a custom fitted gown/suit that flatters them, won’t think about it too much, just enough to make them happy and the Atelier to breeze through it and look presentable with bragging rights of a couture piece.

And you just summed up everything that is wrong with this collection and Dior's Haute Couture and fashion as whole. Haute Couture is a place of dreaming where practicality falls to the waist side. Now, it's about the bottom line and gone is that sense of pushing boundaries. It isn't too surprising since the world has deemed careers and college degrees in the artist realm as downright worthless. The balance of both a fiscal output and one that challenges the societal perspective has disappeared to the former.

I guess some of were still looking for stars in the sky only to be dropped back to the dismal, money fueled earth. Mediocre may sell but it leaves no lasting impression.

 

[Lola701]

Geezus Christ, the utter bashing in this thread. Its not the crazy out there Galliano couture that everyone admires but it’s a very wearable, solid and cohesive collection. It will be all over the red carpet.

It does look a lot like PPP’s Valentino but you can still see the New Look here and there. I prefer couture to be fitted and wearable than the crazy over sized/extra wrinkly fabric trend that is taking over couture lately, also thanks to PPP.

Its simple enough to make, the custom alterations are not too complicated for the customer and they can charge crazy prices given the Dior name and experience. At the end whoever buys this will get a custom fitted gown/suit that flatters them, won’t think about it too much, just enough to make them happy and the Atelier to breeze through it and look presentable with bragging rights of a couture piece.

Thank god that there are still Couture clients who are willing to pay to remake Archive Couture pieces for them...

I totally get the Couture that is dictated by the clientele but there’s already Elie Saab, Stephane Rolland among others for that. I think Dior should be more. I think should have that extra creativity that makes you dream.

While women tend to buy the same over and over again (I don’t count my pantsuits) how many ballerina dresses do a Dior client needs? Between RTW and Couture...Considering that RTW can also be fitted to your body.

Haute Couture by Dior or Chanel should be also creative, beyond the name and the status.

 

[donyan]

It isn't too surprising since the world has deemed careers and college degrees in the artist realm as downright worthless. The balance of both a fiscal output and one that challenges the societal perspective has disappeared to the former.

I guess some of were still looking for stars in the sky only to be dropped back to the dismal, money fueled earth. Mediocre may sell but it leaves no lasting impression.

^^
Thank you . Exactly what my feeling was but I was incapable of putting it into words. MG is an able designer and this is an able collection. Does it make you dream? Does it give you goosebumps? Does it do justice to the biggest fashion house in the world?
One good thing about this: The more big houses go back to being stuffy and commercial (Dior before Galliano took over) the more space it gives to a new generation. The reason why we've had no new Margiela, or Demeulemeester or Lang is that the old houses became rivals, taking the spotlight by employing Ghesquiere , McQueen etc. That is changing again, and that might be a good thing

 

[CommanderTMugler]

Thank god that there are still Couture clients who are willing to pay to remake Archive Couture pieces for them...

I totally get the Couture that is dictated by the clientele but there’s already Elie Saab, Stephane Rolland among others for that. I think Dior should be more. I think should have that extra creativity that makes you dream.

While women tend to buy the same over and over again (I don’t count my pantsuits) how many ballerina dresses do a Dior client needs? Between RTW and Couture...Considering that RTW can also be fitted to your body.

Haute Couture by Dior or Chanel should be also creative, beyond the name and the status.

I don’t think of Dior and Chanel Couture as houses that need to be creative, they already have their set foundation. Dior got a huge creative push thanks to Gallianos runway presentations but I’m sure when sold the couture was toned down to fit the New Look Dior is known for and to simpler pieces women could easily wear. Who the hell is going to wear those golden Egyptian pieces from Diors SS04 runway to a wedding, red carpet, or formal event? Nobody, but they will get the fabric or embroidery and make a simpler dress or outfit from that.

Couture should be wearable first and foremost, if it’s made to fit someone to perfection, it’s meant to be worn. Then we can get into a debate about creativity, technique and originality.

We need to bring down the expectations we have for these two houses. They have huge legacies now, they’re not going to change that, they don’t need to be leaders in fashion in the sense that they need to keep on innovating. They already did that. They just need to churn out their tweed jackets and new look pieces, people will go to them because of their name and quality, plus they’re flattering pieces. And as you said women will buy the same thing over and over so that will keep them supplying the same thing over and over.

If we want creativity and pieces that make us dream, look elsewhere to archive JPG, Mugler, McQueen, new and upcoming designers who have something else to say, costume design in upcoming shows/theater and movies. A stale house that has deep roots and already flourished to the max won’t give you anything more.

 

[Lola701]

I don’t think of Dior and Chanel Couture as houses that need to be creative, they already have their set foundation. Dior got a huge creative push thanks to Gallianos runway presentations but I’m sure when sold the couture was toned down to fit the New Look Dior is known for and to simpler pieces women could easily wear. Who the hell is going to wear those golden Egyptian pieces from Diors SS04 runway to a wedding, red carpet, or formal event? Nobody, but they will get the fabric or embroidery and make a simpler dress or outfit from that.

Couture should be wearable first and foremost, if it’s made to fit someone to perfection, it’s meant to be worn. Then we can get into a debate about creativity, technique and originality.

We need to bring down the expectations we have for these two houses. They have huge legacies now, they’re not going to change that, they don’t need to be leaders in fashion in the sense that they need to keep on innovating. They already did that. They just need to churn out their tweed jackets and new look pieces, people will go to them because of their name and quality, plus they’re flattering pieces. And as you said women will buy the same thing over and over so that will keep them supplying the same thing over and over.

If we want creativity and pieces that make us dream, look elsewhere to archive JPG, Mugler, McQueen, new and upcoming designers who have something else to say, costume design in upcoming shows/theater and movies. A stale house that has deep roots and already flourished to the max won’t give you anything more.

Creativity doesn’t mean extravaganza. I think in his earlier collections, John proved that he could create beautiful and wearable clothes. I don’t think we can say that Karl’s Chanel was unwearable, the same for Versace or even Gaultier in his earlier years.

Galliano’s extravaganza were actually clever from a business point of view as from one dress, he was able to make 3 different versions for a client.

I love John’s time at Dior buy I’m against nostalgia. The problem is that for long time now, Dior has been a birdhouse and it’s impossible to not be nostalgic.

I wanted Alber to do Dior...We can’t say that his clothes are not wearable but there’s a sensuality and a sophistication to his fashion that I think Dior needs.

 

[madzedre]

when is she getting fired?

 

[Melancholybaby]

when is she getting fired?

Nowhere near soon enough, They must have renewed her contract for 3 more years. Didn't they make an announcement a few months ago about the amazing figures Christian Dior Couture is doing? The execs must love her.

 

[Royal-Galliano]

all those satin suits remind me an old rich middle-age woman at her son's big wedding, happy, glowing and worrying her Pekingese at home

all i saw was theresa may.