Share your thoughts on the... 2025 Met Gala!
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If Galliano, who is one of the most exciting designers of our time, couldn't spice up Dior then I doubt anyone can.
Perhaps the fact that Galliano Dior was too 'spicey' was exactly the problem.
Does the brand not need paring back rather than spicing up? To regain contemporary relevance.
Imagine for instance if back before SS10 Phoebe Philo had been given the helm of Dior rather than Celine. A re-engagement of mid-century Parisian chic Dior archive through the prism of minimalism. Could we imagine that working?
It was a place Galliano was never going to go to. He continued to fiddle to his own tune while the rest of fashion was in a different auditorium altogether.
To make sure I'm staying on thread - from the little we've seen of the Resort collection, I'm sure we're all agreed on one thing - these looks do herald a fundamental rethink of brand identity. In that process the new Creative Director would surely be negligent if they didn't do two things - go back to archive pre-Galliano and engage with relevant contemporary zeitgeist.
Whilst it's not what we've seen here at Resort, I think we could imagine a brand of Dior minimalism that could be the epitome of contemporary sartorial sophistication?
Perhaps the fact that Galliano Dior was too 'spicey' was exactly the problem.
Does the brand not need paring back rather than spicing up? To regain contemporary relevance.
Imagine for instance if back before SS10 Phoebe Philo had been given the helm of Dior rather than Celine. A re-engagement of mid-century Parisian chic Dior archive through the prism of minimalism. Could we imagine that working?
It was a place Galliano was never going to go to. He continued to fiddle to his own tune while the rest of fashion was in a different auditorium altogether.
To make sure I'm staying on thread - from the little we've seen of the Resort collection, I'm sure we're all agreed on one thing - these looks do herald a fundamental rethink of brand identity. In that process the new Creative Director would surely be negligent if they didn't do two things - go back to archive pre-Galliano and engage with relevant contemporary zeitgeist.
Whilst it's not what we've seen here at Resort, I think we could imagine a brand of Dior minimalism that could be the epitome of contemporary sartorial sophistication?
If Galliano, who is one of the most exciting designers of our time, couldn't spice up Dior then I doubt anyone can.
if Dior wanted minimalism they wouldn't be looking at designers like Tisci and Sarah Burton to fill Galliano's shoes. Besides everyone knows this resort collection is just a filler done by the atelier to not skip the resort season. It's hardly a jumping off point in a new direction.
The Dior label has never been about minimalism, It's not what Christian Dior believed in. Mr. Dior said "full wide skirts" when the world said "budget on fabric & fashion" and he created a revolution.
You're meaning New Look, 1947? I'm afraid you're confusing 'minimalism' with post-war austerity. In 1947 a dialogue between Dior and the type of minimalism I'm talking about was impossible as the Primary Structures art exhibition and the Harpers Bazaar article that linked that exhibition with minimalism in fashion was still nearly 20 years in the future.
The part of the Dior archive I'm suggesting it might be interesting for a new Creative Director to revisit is the mid 60's archive. It's pretty minimalistic I assure you. Ok I appreciate that by then Dior himself was dead but what's a brand to do, does it have to be on endless copy of a copy repeat of some overessentialised seminal collection of the founder. The Dior archive is much broader than just the New Look collection. Dior the brand managed to maintain it's cache for 50 years after the death of Christian himself because guess what - it moved with the times.
Which Galliano palpably wasn't doing. And, if you want to overassociate Dior with New Look, consider AW10/11, the silhouettes at Louis Vuitton and Prada were, broadly, New Look derived. The fashion moment paid a visit to that part of the Dior archive but Galliano had Dior itself in some other place entirely - his own navel.
For me Dior stands for, perhaps moreso than any other brand - elegance and sophistication. So, regardless of who the new CD might be, it would sit well with the demographic it's most likely to appeal to, if it repositioned toward the type of aesthetic seen in recent years at such as Celine, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein. Anyway, we will see what happens.