It's great, if not amazing, from a technical point of view. Some of those patterns would have been utterly ridiculous to make in a head turning way, and then later to sew it. Interesting textiles too.
But it's been the same kind of thing for seasons now so what is the real point of all this? Been done so many times what else is there really to say with this approach despite being the best at doing it. They say it's anti-fashion, but I think it feeds into the ridiculousness that always shrouds fashion even more now. It bypasses the "fashion pack snob" stereotype but goes into "fashion analytic elitist". And trust me, universities/institutions that say "we're not like typical fashion people" generally are, it's just a deviation of that attitude.