I checked tbe website today, its already all polyester-mix materials, difficult to go cheaper
Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry
- Thread starter dodencebt
- Start date
rowjellies
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2024
- Messages
- 162
- Reaction score
- 418
I wonder if the leather goods are no longer gonna be Made in Italy / if they’re going to move production to China.
PDFSD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2024
- Messages
- 942
- Reaction score
- 2,501
I agree absolutely: no AI generated vibes, that's why i said the creative approach is too mismatched and not clear what it stands for, the brand needs focus and like you said less quirk but keep it fashion ....my personal ideal is as well classic Burberry Britishness with fashion twists ....unexpectedness in doses not overkill.
Even if i understand Bailey´s Burberry, i don't like it personally it's Frida / Gucci TF descendants ) way of design for a brand i found even then stuffy.
And nostalgia makes people forget the final year it was so formulaic and cheesy it was painful to watch nad if he was so great he would still be there like you said.
And agree the CEO sets the business strategy a creative director might have his 2 cents at the start or interfals, but usually they are hired with a plan in mind already to brief the new CD of the brand positioning, but it depends on the brand and culture and relationship of CEO and CD and the board members.
I do believe it went hand in hand with Daniel Lee because he came from BV and they wanted this type of profile to support the business plan of further elevation post Tisci.
PDFSD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2024
- Messages
- 942
- Reaction score
- 2,501
We have China in Italy ( no joke ) , it won't change the price of cost , and there are good and bad factories in Italy as in China
yslforever
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,381
- Reaction score
- 3,876
If they are made in Prato, it's the same thing.
The Chinese Workers Who Assemble Designer Bags in Tuscany
Many companies are using inexpensive immigrant labor to manufacture handbags that bear the coveted “Made in Italy” label.
Last edited:
jeanclaude
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2012
- Messages
- 3,648
- Reaction score
- 8,892
They could lower the price as much as possible...but if Lee keeps making duck prints clothes, and his usual weird stuff, they won´t be able to get rid of the collection even if they offered it for free.
PDFSD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2024
- Messages
- 942
- Reaction score
- 2,501
No need to bet it's common knowledge and in past prada dolce armani gucci, even max mara with unethical chinese fur farms.If they are made in Prato, it's the same thing.
Dior just got caught, but if Dior does it I am willing to bet they all do it.The Chinese Workers Who Assemble Designer Bags in Tuscany
Many companies are using inexpensive immigrant labor to manufacture handbags that bear the coveted “Made in Italy” label.www.newyorker.com
chinese and italian industries for fashion are very much linked every few years its all in the news then disappears the hype, also african immigrants that work in tanneries with no protection and health care and little pay , if you see the area´s you would think it's anywhere but Italy.
The subcontractor game these luxury brands play are not new, even designers know as they work with factories what goes where and how it works, people talk but among there inner circles because they all have salaries that are provided by the industry and you even have italian families that work for one brand in varies levels so its not common you don't have whistleblowers in fashion in this part of the chain.
PDFSD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2024
- Messages
- 942
- Reaction score
- 2,501
15 July 2024
BoF PROFESSIONAL
On Monday, Burberry named a new CEO — Joshua Schulman, the former leader of Coach, then Michael Kors — after comparable retail sales tumbled 21 percent in its first fiscal quarter.
The British luxury brand’s latest attempt to push upmarket under chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd and creative director Daniel Lee has struggled to gain traction in a slowing, polarised luxury market, prompting chairman Gerry Murphy to bring in new leadership.
While investors responded favourably to the move, it’s unclear how radically or how quickly a new CEO will reignite excitement in the Burberry brand after years of turnaround attempts.
An initial call with Murphy suggested the company will stick with its long-term brand elevation strategy — and current designer — while at the same time taking “decisive action” to rebalance its marketing and products to include more accessible propositions.
BoF breaks down what the shake-up means for Britain’s biggest fashion brand, and the luxury industry at large.
But for more than a decade, Burberry’s top-line revenues have been broadly stagnant, despite surging demand for luxury fashion, at first among Chinese Millennials from 2016 to 2019, and then as sales in the US and Europe boomed in the aftermath of 2020′s coronavirus pandemic.
2023 revenue of £2.97 billion ($3.86 billion) was flat year-on-year. But in the past two quarters, Burberry has gone from stagnation to steep decline. Comparable retail sales fell 21 percent year-on-year in the quarter ending June 29, following a 12 percent decline at the start of the year.
“The weakness we highlighted coming into [fiscal year] 2025 has deepened and if the current trend persists through our Q2, we expect to report an operating loss for our first half,” chairman Gerry Murphy said. “In light of current trading, we have decided to suspend dividend payments.”
But Akeroyd’s strategy for the company was being implemented at the same time as a post-pandemic luxury wound down, and the company made a few key missteps during the transition from former designer Riccardo Tisci’s bold-faced, streetwear-inflected vision to the first collections by current creative director Daniel Lee.
Burberry’s first collection under Lee appeared to give free reign to the designer’s sensual, textural, pop take on British luxury, helping to quickly update the brand’s image. But Lee’s offering came with eye-popping price tags that alienated aspirational customers.
New ranges of supple leather bags like Shield and Knight were priced at nearly $3,000, limiting their audience, while cool show pieces like duck- and fox-shaped beanies came in at $4,500. Chunky block-heeled loafers or Timberland-inspired nubuck “Trek boots” failed to take off when priced above $1,000, and have since been marked down over 50 percent by Saks and Neiman Marcus.
Burberry has since worked to fill in its offer with more accessible propositions, but many items are still priced too highly to attract a new cohort of clients at a brand whose starting point is the trench coat, and which still lacks real credibility in leather goods and top-end runway fashion.
Burberry's campaigns have mixed contemporary Britishness with fashion-forward design.
Burberry plans to increase the focus on timeless design in its campaigns.
Burberry also chose to grant Lee broad authority over the brand’s marketing and communications when he was brought on as “chief creative officer”
(a holdover in the company’s structure from the days when Christopher Bailey was simultaneously piloting design, marketing and business).
Fashion campaigns celebrated a more niche, contemporary view of Britishness that has boosted the brand’s cool-factor. But a company at Burberry’s scale needs to balance that fashion message with a simpler, easier-to-recognise take on British heritage to generate sufficient sales volume.
52-year-old Schulman served as president of Tapestry’s flagship Coach brand from 2017 to 2020, where he reduced its over-reliance on struggling US department stores and undifferentiated monogram bags, as well as pulling back on rampant discounting. He also helped support the continued rollout of creative director Stuart Vevers’ more expressive, contemporary Americana vision, elevating the brand while keeping prices and merchandising in an accessible range.
In 2021, Schulman took over as CEO of Michael Kors and was lined up to succeed John Idol as the leader of parent company Capri, but exited after Idol decided to stay in his role.
“Josh is a proven leader with an outstanding record of building global luxury brands and driving profitable growth,” Murphy said.
“Burberry is an extraordinary luxury brand, quintessentially British, equal parts heritage and innovation,” Schulman said in a statement. “Its original purpose to protect people from the weather is more relevant than ever. I look forward to working alongside Daniel Lee and the talented teams to drive global growth, delight our customers, and write the next chapter of the Burberry story.”
Former Coach chief Joshua Schulman is joining Burberry as CEO, effective immediately. (Burberry)
Falling sales and higher discounting suggest that moving further upmarket — eventually becoming a British answer to Louis Vuitton — may not be realistic. “Rather than sticking with a strategy that’s not working, could becoming a “British Coach” be the cure Burberry is looking for?” Bernstein analyst Luca Solca asked in a column last week.
Burberry says it will stick to its long-term programme of brand elevation. “Jonathan [Akeroyd] has set out a clear strategy for growth that we will build on,” Murphy said. But the move to hire a new chief executive who is strongly associated with accessible luxury sends a clear signal that the brand’s upmarket push is under review. The company said it will focus on “rebalancing our product offer to include a broader everyday luxury offer and a more complete assortment across key categories.”
The brand also said it would rebalance its communications, pulling back from its current design-forward messaging. The company is “refining our brand communication to emphasise more of the timeless, classic attributes that Burberry is known for. Our refocused marketing plans include a dedicated outerwear campaign to be launched globally in October, building on the established resilience of our house icons,” Burberry said.
“Burberry’s issues include having raised prices strongly against a weaker industry backdrop and rather weak brand momentum. The new hire, Joshua Schulman, joining from Coach and Michael Kors, may pivot Burberry towards a more affordable direction, which some market participants have been calling for,” Morningstar analyst Jelena Sokolova said.
Other analysts urged caution. “With the company’s strategy unlikely to change dramatically, the change in CEO will be very much about execution. Successful implementation of brand turnarounds seems to have become more complex in an increasingly competitive luxury market, where scale, top design talent and marketing firepower matter,” Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said.
Some investors may also be betting that Schulman will dress Burberry up for a sale (possibly to his former employers like Tapestry or Capri). With shares down by 63 percent over the past 12 months, the brand is a more attractive target.
Next week, first-half results at LVMH and Hermès will show how well the luxury sector’s strongest groups are holding up in the current climate.
Kering’s Gucci, whose sales fell sharply at the start of the year, is another one to watch: the company is expected to insist that its new team appointed last year needs more time to turn things around. But pressure to make big changes could mount if Q2 sales show further deterioration.
BoF PROFESSIONAL
Burberry’s CEO Shake-Up, Explained
The British trench coat maker’s revenues tumbled over 20 percent this spring. How will new leadership change the strategy? And will it work?On Monday, Burberry named a new CEO — Joshua Schulman, the former leader of Coach, then Michael Kors — after comparable retail sales tumbled 21 percent in its first fiscal quarter.
The British luxury brand’s latest attempt to push upmarket under chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd and creative director Daniel Lee has struggled to gain traction in a slowing, polarised luxury market, prompting chairman Gerry Murphy to bring in new leadership.
While investors responded favourably to the move, it’s unclear how radically or how quickly a new CEO will reignite excitement in the Burberry brand after years of turnaround attempts.
An initial call with Murphy suggested the company will stick with its long-term brand elevation strategy — and current designer — while at the same time taking “decisive action” to rebalance its marketing and products to include more accessible propositions.
BoF breaks down what the shake-up means for Britain’s biggest fashion brand, and the luxury industry at large.
How badly is Burberry’s business doing?
Under its last two CEOs — Marco Gobbetti, then Akeroyd — the brand made progress on its elevation strategy, reducing its exposure to underperforming malls and wholesalers, and redirecting customers to an increasingly luxurious network of retail stores.But for more than a decade, Burberry’s top-line revenues have been broadly stagnant, despite surging demand for luxury fashion, at first among Chinese Millennials from 2016 to 2019, and then as sales in the US and Europe boomed in the aftermath of 2020′s coronavirus pandemic.
2023 revenue of £2.97 billion ($3.86 billion) was flat year-on-year. But in the past two quarters, Burberry has gone from stagnation to steep decline. Comparable retail sales fell 21 percent year-on-year in the quarter ending June 29, following a 12 percent decline at the start of the year.
“The weakness we highlighted coming into [fiscal year] 2025 has deepened and if the current trend persists through our Q2, we expect to report an operating loss for our first half,” chairman Gerry Murphy said. “In light of current trading, we have decided to suspend dividend payments.”
What went wrong under Jonathan Akeroyd?
When Jonathan Akeroyd joined Burberry in 2021 after highly successful stints at Alexander McQueen and Versace, the executive seemed like a perfect fit for the British brand: Akeroyd is known as a seasoned merchant with a knack for mixing luxurious brand positioning with it deft merchandising across categories and price points. At Versace, Donatella Versace’s glitzy runway vision drove communications while the brand moved into more upscale stores on luxury shopping streets — but continued to sell iconic silk shirts and small handbags for under $1,000 (not to mention entry-price options like $75 boxer shorts and $300 pool slides).But Akeroyd’s strategy for the company was being implemented at the same time as a post-pandemic luxury wound down, and the company made a few key missteps during the transition from former designer Riccardo Tisci’s bold-faced, streetwear-inflected vision to the first collections by current creative director Daniel Lee.
Burberry’s first collection under Lee appeared to give free reign to the designer’s sensual, textural, pop take on British luxury, helping to quickly update the brand’s image. But Lee’s offering came with eye-popping price tags that alienated aspirational customers.
New ranges of supple leather bags like Shield and Knight were priced at nearly $3,000, limiting their audience, while cool show pieces like duck- and fox-shaped beanies came in at $4,500. Chunky block-heeled loafers or Timberland-inspired nubuck “Trek boots” failed to take off when priced above $1,000, and have since been marked down over 50 percent by Saks and Neiman Marcus.
Burberry has since worked to fill in its offer with more accessible propositions, but many items are still priced too highly to attract a new cohort of clients at a brand whose starting point is the trench coat, and which still lacks real credibility in leather goods and top-end runway fashion.
Burberry's campaigns have mixed contemporary Britishness with fashion-forward design.
Burberry plans to increase the focus on timeless design in its campaigns.
Burberry also chose to grant Lee broad authority over the brand’s marketing and communications when he was brought on as “chief creative officer”
(a holdover in the company’s structure from the days when Christopher Bailey was simultaneously piloting design, marketing and business).
Fashion campaigns celebrated a more niche, contemporary view of Britishness that has boosted the brand’s cool-factor. But a company at Burberry’s scale needs to balance that fashion message with a simpler, easier-to-recognise take on British heritage to generate sufficient sales volume.
Who is Burberry’s new CEO?
Murphy has pledged “decisive action” to get the company back on track, including bringing on a new CEO, Joshua Schulman, with immediate effect.52-year-old Schulman served as president of Tapestry’s flagship Coach brand from 2017 to 2020, where he reduced its over-reliance on struggling US department stores and undifferentiated monogram bags, as well as pulling back on rampant discounting. He also helped support the continued rollout of creative director Stuart Vevers’ more expressive, contemporary Americana vision, elevating the brand while keeping prices and merchandising in an accessible range.
In 2021, Schulman took over as CEO of Michael Kors and was lined up to succeed John Idol as the leader of parent company Capri, but exited after Idol decided to stay in his role.
“Josh is a proven leader with an outstanding record of building global luxury brands and driving profitable growth,” Murphy said.
“Burberry is an extraordinary luxury brand, quintessentially British, equal parts heritage and innovation,” Schulman said in a statement. “Its original purpose to protect people from the weather is more relevant than ever. I look forward to working alongside Daniel Lee and the talented teams to drive global growth, delight our customers, and write the next chapter of the Burberry story.”
Former Coach chief Joshua Schulman is joining Burberry as CEO, effective immediately. (Burberry)
Will Burberry change its strategy?
Amid rising costs for quality manufacturing, as well as increased income inequality that has fuelled polarisation in the fashion market, the logic behind Burberry’s long-standing mission to play at the top end of the market remains intact — to an extent.Falling sales and higher discounting suggest that moving further upmarket — eventually becoming a British answer to Louis Vuitton — may not be realistic. “Rather than sticking with a strategy that’s not working, could becoming a “British Coach” be the cure Burberry is looking for?” Bernstein analyst Luca Solca asked in a column last week.
Burberry says it will stick to its long-term programme of brand elevation. “Jonathan [Akeroyd] has set out a clear strategy for growth that we will build on,” Murphy said. But the move to hire a new chief executive who is strongly associated with accessible luxury sends a clear signal that the brand’s upmarket push is under review. The company said it will focus on “rebalancing our product offer to include a broader everyday luxury offer and a more complete assortment across key categories.”
The brand also said it would rebalance its communications, pulling back from its current design-forward messaging. The company is “refining our brand communication to emphasise more of the timeless, classic attributes that Burberry is known for. Our refocused marketing plans include a dedicated outerwear campaign to be launched globally in October, building on the established resilience of our house icons,” Burberry said.
How did markets respond?
Shares in Burberry rose 2 percent following the CEO shake up, even as quarterly sales missed estimates by 6 percent and the company suspended its dividend. Many analysts welcomed the leadership shake up amid poor results, and were hopeful that terms like “everyday luxury” and “inclusive products” suggest that more affordable propositions are on the way.“Burberry’s issues include having raised prices strongly against a weaker industry backdrop and rather weak brand momentum. The new hire, Joshua Schulman, joining from Coach and Michael Kors, may pivot Burberry towards a more affordable direction, which some market participants have been calling for,” Morningstar analyst Jelena Sokolova said.
Other analysts urged caution. “With the company’s strategy unlikely to change dramatically, the change in CEO will be very much about execution. Successful implementation of brand turnarounds seems to have become more complex in an increasingly competitive luxury market, where scale, top design talent and marketing firepower matter,” Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said.
Some investors may also be betting that Schulman will dress Burberry up for a sale (possibly to his former employers like Tapestry or Capri). With shares down by 63 percent over the past 12 months, the brand is a more attractive target.
Will other brands follow Burberry’s lead?
Shake ups to senior management, pricing and communication could be on the horizon at other firms. Burberry is certainly not the only brand struggling to navigate a slowing luxury market.Next week, first-half results at LVMH and Hermès will show how well the luxury sector’s strongest groups are holding up in the current climate.
Kering’s Gucci, whose sales fell sharply at the start of the year, is another one to watch: the company is expected to insist that its new team appointed last year needs more time to turn things around. But pressure to make big changes could mount if Q2 sales show further deterioration.
Last edited:
LadyJunon
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2020
- Messages
- 3,975
- Reaction score
- 7,976
WWD on the new Burberry strategy:
Summary on Schulman's strategy:
• Burberry will be repositioned to become a more "inclusive, democratic" brand.
• This will be done by broadening the product range to include more accessibly priced products that appeal to a wider clientele.
• The brand will bring in a wider range of products centering on timeless, classic, heritage-based aesthetics like outerwear.
• That said, the brand will retain a few higher priced halo products that center “innovation, design, and quality".
• The brand will also work on improving online experiences.
WWD
Summary on Schulman's strategy:
• Burberry will be repositioned to become a more "inclusive, democratic" brand.
• This will be done by broadening the product range to include more accessibly priced products that appeal to a wider clientele.
• The brand will bring in a wider range of products centering on timeless, classic, heritage-based aesthetics like outerwear.
• That said, the brand will retain a few higher priced halo products that center “innovation, design, and quality".
• The brand will also work on improving online experiences.
visvim2001
Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2024
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 64
Tbh I’m not sure that their problems were entirely of the executive team’s own making…Lee is a very underwhelming designer, a perfect poster boy for Gen Z mediocrity. Such a rich heritage, and yet he puts out what I can only describe as ‘gay chav on acid’ lookbooks. Wavy checks, pants in strange colours that pool at the ankles, extremely deep v-necks, psychedelic rose prints, bulging sneakers. p*rnstar nova lingerie for the ladies. What the hell? Is this what people from Essex wear? I don’t know who else would pay 5k for this sh*t.
I miss Burberry black label, by the way. Big fan. The Japanese team did a fantastic job reinterpreting sharp British lines to fit their Asian clientele. Very mod, very dapper. Too bad Sanyo lost the licence.
I miss Burberry black label, by the way. Big fan. The Japanese team did a fantastic job reinterpreting sharp British lines to fit their Asian clientele. Very mod, very dapper. Too bad Sanyo lost the licence.
style_expert
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2006
- Messages
- 8,779
- Reaction score
- 861
I have to say I'm pretty content with the fact that Jonathan Akeroyd was let go of before Daniel Lee.
It's a tough lesson for Jonathan that in the end the consumers will always decide. No matter how susceptible they are to marketing and hype, they're often not complete idiots when it comes to pricing and perceived (brand) value.
With Daniel Lee and his designs they already have the ideal creative output to turn Burberry into a cooler, British version of Coach. All they need to do is reduce their current pricing by about 75% and it can be a hit indeed. At a more accessible price point it will speak to a different client.
Greediness will surely prevent them from doing so but best of luck to the new CEO....
It's a tough lesson for Jonathan that in the end the consumers will always decide. No matter how susceptible they are to marketing and hype, they're often not complete idiots when it comes to pricing and perceived (brand) value.
With Daniel Lee and his designs they already have the ideal creative output to turn Burberry into a cooler, British version of Coach. All they need to do is reduce their current pricing by about 75% and it can be a hit indeed. At a more accessible price point it will speak to a different client.
Greediness will surely prevent them from doing so but best of luck to the new CEO....
Oh, great.
I am so sick of those words. Just be honest and tell us you are moving forward with a strategy of making basic trash for everyone.
PDFSD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2024
- Messages
- 942
- Reaction score
- 2,501
Desire is in this case is not tempered by the high price....because simply there has not been yet !!! a show or ad campaign or one product!!! that was designed by Lee and his team that has clicked with fashion lovers or a wider audience ......end of this story /chapter.
...its one sided onliner to say reduce price reduce price i see everywhere written ...funny how nobody writes how in love they are with it or what pieces are in the top 10 dream shopping list of items to get this season or year etc etc its cost nothing to dream or desire!
Lee just did not do the right creative direction yet that resonates with any audience !!! that's his responsibility not the CEO or anyone else.
...its one sided onliner to say reduce price reduce price i see everywhere written ...funny how nobody writes how in love they are with it or what pieces are in the top 10 dream shopping list of items to get this season or year etc etc its cost nothing to dream or desire!
Lee just did not do the right creative direction yet that resonates with any audience !!! that's his responsibility not the CEO or anyone else.
Menâs Designer T-Shirts | BurberryÂ®ï¸ Official
Designer T-shirts and polo shirts for men including Burberry Check styles.
us.burberry.com
Already there, they just need to sell them for not-$500
You can find these shirts at their outlet stores for like $149, which is still ridiculous for a tshirt.Menâs Designer T-Shirts | BurberryÂ®ï¸ Official
Designer T-shirts and polo shirts for men including Burberry Check styles.
Already there, they just need to sell them for not-$500
Their game is not about saving face. Ever. Their game is “make more money, NOW”. Lol
Frederic01
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2021
- Messages
- 1,514
- Reaction score
- 3,155
The prices for the Autumn Winter 2024 collection are crazy! I see they won't budge on the pricing / "brand elevation" strategy. Strange. I thought they had acknowledged that strategy wasn't working?
BURBERRY
BURBERRY
style_expert
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2006
- Messages
- 8,779
- Reaction score
- 861
Bizarre honestly...all I can say is I'm glad I don't own any Burberry stocks.
Burberry group is down 65% since last year and at the absolute lowest point in the past 5 years.
It's almost like they're begging to be taken over by a rival.
Burberry group is down 65% since last year and at the absolute lowest point in the past 5 years.
It's almost like they're begging to be taken over by a rival.
Lola701
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2014
- Messages
- 11,554
- Reaction score
- 24,916
At this point they are sabotaging this man’s work. I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that he is totally isolated from the merchandise team, obviously on the brand website, all the good stuff is obviously by Lee and all the classic check ugly boring stuff is by another team. And it seems like the offering of Lee’s work is less important than the classic check stuff.
Maybe they should give the CD to AI
Similar Threads
