Deepti

[runner]

Article by Cecilia Musmeci

Published
July 24, 2014

Last update
July 24, 2014

Photography Cecilia Musmeci


D E E P T I °014-015
Silver is a soft, lustrous and precious metal that has a long history as a medium of exchange and a decorative material, more recently enriched by its electronic, industrial and medical applications.

Stepping into a silver warehouse and workshop hidden in a side street of Parisian Marais area, the smell of dust, long wooden tables and workbenches brought you back to a craftsmanship based industrial era. Wide windows let the faded afternoon light come in, filtered through the tall metal shelves from which hung Deepti Barth’s debut collection. The essential selection of pieces was suspended among countless boxes of stocked silver tools, obstructing the movements of the curious visitors which had to bend and squeeze to carefully explore this crystallized fauna of garments. Stiff silhouettes and exquisitely sartorial patterns gave to suits and coats a certain concrete “power” which made them interact with the roughness of the location. Passing the old engraving machine to get into the basement one felt like breaking into the garments own rein. The theme of silver echoes like a leitmotiv from the forging tools to the clothes, as Barth used pure silver coated yarns making each garment precious as a jewelry piece. The cold glow of a beautiful high neck knit and a weightless fringed scarf sparked into the darkness like components of a metallic armor. Thanks to the especially developed “vulcanising” technique the jackets, coat and t-shirts, available in limited number, are felted together instead of using seams which required several replacements of the working machine within the production process. Far from being flashy, the garments have more the appeal of medical tools, exploiting the silver’s healing and anti-bacterical properties as well as anti-radiation, indeed it hinders mobile phones’radiations passing through the body. Most of the pieces are reversible, such as the tech-like long and short silver bomber jackets, so the wearer can put the silver side in direct contact with his skin to benefit of the metal’s properties and its positive energy, or leave it outside. Unlike other metals with antimicrobial properties, silver is not toxic to humans. As a material memory, the silver yarns oxidize and change while being worn, embodying our past time and carrying it into the future.

The scars and scratches of our existences mark the metallic surfaces, reflecting our transience on their oxidized surfaces.

from le paradox

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[runner]

Deepti Barth is an eclectic artisan and artist in the world of fashion.

She completed her MA at Central Saint Martins in London, focusing mainly in menswear. After her graduation, in 2005 she started to work as a designer for the well-known label Carol Christina Poell up to 2012. In the meanwhile, she has increased her interest in photography and video production, which lead her to publish her works on several art magazines and eventually to organize a solo exhibition in Cyprus in 2013.

Then she took a big step ahead, deciding to give birth to her very own brand: here we have DEEPTI.

DEEPTI collections are a clear representation of her artistic attitude where she shows her great care during the choice of materials, both traditional and completely contemporary. The artisanal approach meets industrial world.

from daad-dantone

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[softgrey]

fascinating...
like wearable art...

thx for sharing this runner...

i wonder if the items are quite heavy...?
i'd also like to see those felted seams close up...

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey
the items are not especially heavy, as you might imagine from your silver yarn shoelace.



related thread here

DEEPTI BARTH

• Born 1978 in Germany to Argentinean mother and German father
• 1999 Foundation Studies at Camberwell College of Arts, London
• 2000-2003 BA Fashion Design, emphasis on men's tailoring, at Middlesex University, London
Work experience with design ateliers such as Vivienne Westwood, Carol Christian Poell, et al.
2003-2005 BA and subsequent collections sold at store in London's Savile Row
• 2003-2005 MA Fashion Menswear at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, London
DAAD Scholarship award
• 2005-2012 menswear and womenswear designer for Carol Christian Poell, Milan
Photographic and video work published in Visionaire, Domus, Art Magazin, et al.
• 2012 moved to Berlin to work on her own project and menswear collection
Currently work in progress.

from goethe

the designer scrutinizing the fabric

 

[runner]

garments as palimpsests



images from le paradox

 

[softgrey]

BEAUTIFUL images!

palimpsest is a new word for me...
and a great one!

pa·limp·sest noun \ˈpa-ləm(p)-ˌsest, pə-ˈlim(p)-\
: a very old document on which the original writing has been erased and replaced with new writing

: something that has changed over time and shows evidence of that change

also
: something having usually diverse layers or aspects apparent beneath the surface
<Canada … is a palimpsest, an overlay of classes and generations — Margaret Atwood>

merriam-webster.com

thanks so much runner!

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey
as you said in the deepti barth thread in the link above, while what she did to ccp is rather visible there, here in this thread what ccp did to her too is not concealed but perceptible. this collection is clearly built on all those earlier sartorial texts.
and of course the silver items could be palimpsests also in the sense that they are to preserve on their surface the traces of "our existence" that are supposed to be scratched and written-over. this is a kind of inscription and our body is a pen, which somewhat evokes carol christian poell where a garment is the mirror image of ourselves.

 

[runner]

silver coated fiber from mitsufuji, just for reference

mitsufuji

 

[softgrey]

to be scratched and written-over

mmm...
nice imagery...

yes- you can see and feel clearly where she has come from...
CCP has perhaps left some scratches on her...

 

[taupe]

as far as i know ccp is struggling to get a new pattern designer...

Anyway iv bought a suit, which is beautiful, more classic but also very reminiscent of poell,

If your in Paris l'e has a good selection, idol in NY has some pieces also.
Just note sizing runs small...

 

[runner]

shelter

 

[runner]

shelter.

 

[softgrey]

great photos...
great textures...
great shapes...

thanks so much for sharing...
really special stuff...