Continues Family of Brands-Carpe Diem, Linea, etc...

[Chinor1z]

alright wait a moment

I'll wait as long as you need Runner Take all the time you need my friend.

Looking forward to seeing shots!

 

[runner]

the concept of anatomica was "the second skin".
part of the collection they called fattoamano was ready-to-wear version of sartoria/anatomica.
so the last two pics are of fattoamano (please don't post these two where pics are completely naked. thanks! ).


courtesy m

 

[runner]

sartoria/anatomic storyboard


.

 

[runner]

....

 

[runner]

.....

 

[runner]

......

 

[runner]

some other images here if anyone is interested

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4980784&postcount=463


.

 

[Chinor1z]

Runner, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it's always amazing to see more and more of Anatomica/Fattoamano. It was such an interesting project and my single biggest fashion regret to not have had pieces made when X12 was still in existence.

Thank you again my friend!!!

 

[wire.artist]

+1, really amazing, thanks runner. This thread proves that the internet can be a valuable and serious source of information.

 

[Avantster]

Thanks for posting these amazing pictures, runner.

 

[jcotteri]

Thankyou Runner for your wonderful contributions to this thread and many others. You are dearly missed in other places

 

[runner]

you are all welcome



an old article from nytimes.com

Patterns

By Constance C. R. White
Published: Tuesday, May 2, 1995


New Relationships

The fate of young designers has never been more precarious. Christian Francis Roth is among those who have been forced to scale back their businesses considerably. But Mr. Roth, who seven months ago lost the backing of Sloan Lindemann, whose father is the cellular-phone magnate George Lindemann, has been able to piece together his affairs in a way that is keeping him in the swim.

Unable to show under the tents in Bryant Park as he did last year, he has accepted an offer from Tunnel, the trendy downtown nightclub, to present his fall collection on May 13 at 11 P.M. While designer alliances with clubs are not unusual, using a club to introduce a line is.

And in one of fashion's more unlikely pairings, Mr. Roth, whose demeanor and styles project a choirboy's sensibility, has been working since February with Zoran, the rebellious designer who insists on presenting his unadorned, luxurious clothing at 10 P.M. dinners at his atelier on Chambers Street.

Mr. Roth, 26, said he had already been "greatly influenced" by the older designer. "I don't like to use the word fashion," he added, sounding like his 47-year-old mentor as he explained how his new line will be a departure from his playful, brightly colored creations of the past. On Common Ground

Mads Kornerup could not have known when he followed a dreadlocked stranger out of a Paris club a year ago to compliment him on his chocolate-brown python jacket that he would end up collaborating with the wearer. But last week, Maurizio Altieri, the owner and designer of the jacket, and Mr. Kornerup, a jewelry designer, were in Charivari, jointly presenting their collections. Mr. Kornerup will design the silver hardware for Mr. Altieri's Carpe Diem line for next spring, and the two plan to introduce a collection of Carpe Diem jewelry in the fall or spring.

Mr. Altieri, who is from Rome and started Carpe Diem a year ago, specializes in artisanal leathers. His python miniskirts and snap-button shirts were displayed on mannequins alongside his singularly crafted jackets. A brown cordovanlike zip-front jacket, he says, is machine washable. Inspiration for a black zippered and belted hourglass style, piped in off-white with off-white quilt stitching on each shoulder, came from an old German Army jacket. The designer will copy a customer's body tattoos onto a Carpe Diem purchase if requested.

Mr. Altieri and Mr. Kornerup, who works in blackened silver and is scheduled to open a New York store this year, have in common an interest in snakes. Mr. Kornerup keeps a python in a glass-topped box in the floor of his Paris shop. On Friday, as they greeted customers at Charivari, Mr. Kornerup was wearing the python Carpe Diem jacket he had first spied on Mr. Altieri. Knockoffs Line Up

No need to check with store executives to confirm that Tocca by Marie-Anne Oudejans is doing well. Just look at all the imitators. At Henri Bendel, the line's sweet embroidered cotton tank dresses are housed with the knockoffs. The Miami-based Zoe Garbo collection offers almost identical takes on styles from Ms. Oudejans's debut line, introduced a year ago. Ms. Oudejans's styles are priced at about $200, while the Garbo dresses are $138.

Ted Marlow, the president of Henri Bendel, says Tocca has spawned a whole new category of dresses.

"I'd be happy to buy the dresses from Tocca if they had the supply," he said. "We had a good response to their dresses last year and wanted some of those styles again." A spokesman for Ms. Oudejans said she was not inclined to repeat styles from past seasons. Store Closing

Yati, the SoHo store that burst on the scene in October 1993 as a showcase for high-priced fashion, has closed. Isaac Mizrahi, Manolo and Robert Danes were among the designers who sold to the store, which was shuttered four weeks ago without explanation. Manolo said he was not paid for spring deliveries.

The shop was named for its owner, Yati Zainudin, 27, who displayed both deep pockets and sublime taste in her store's decor and merchandise but had no track record in fashion or retailing.

 

[runner]

this sumi-e below is by an artist named musashi miyamoto who however is the most famous as a great swordsman.
it was done in a flash with determination and black ink (its density variations) and a brush when western masterpieces were born, spent good time on and given variegated colors to.
the composition is simple.
from the branches and leaves in the bottom, there is a caterpillar ascending in the middle, whose existence must have been sensed already through the faintest vibration it makes by a percher in the top, the shrike.
and a dead stem, like a sword, runs through those three sections.
the quiet with a tense atmosphere was captured to the full with the minimum strokes of the brush.

this overlaps with the basic concept of linea (line) that was represented by a wire:
a vertical line of top, middle and bottom **
(the three, when displayed, were conceptually connected by the wire, thus a line (linea) hung strictly from a height of 2,340 mm to the ground)
also the predicate of linea's proposition, "minimalism"
its color scheme, black - grey - white
ascetic deportment
a sense of "sword saint" serenity
I assume altieri might have derived inspiration from the artist and his work.



** maybe altieri was struggling to leap the established system (whether it succeeded or not aside)
therefore, size 1 - 9 instead of mens/womens ***,
light - medium - heavy instead of SS/FW,
top - middle - bottom instead of existing item categorization such as shirt, coat, pants, etc.
that is, he aimed to create something about which you cannot tell if it's mens or womens, coat or dress, and spring or fall because, while it's leather, it's so incredibly thin and soft that you can wad up it into a ball in your hand, for example.
he initially aimed at something you had not ever seen. it was back around 2001.

*** he tried considering a human body to be basic, as a figure basically of two arms, torso and two legs regardless of female/male, like the idea of kimono which is more versatile/flexible in size and fit than western style clothing in general. but he also was posing the other predicate of linea: "second skin".
the hurdle he set himself was rather high. so it later branched off and developed into sub-line of linea, "geometric" where the pieces consisted of kimono-like straight lines and square parts,
and "anatomica" for the pursuit of the second skin.



this image is not good enough. but at least you can see the line unwavered.
it's a mirror of the state of mind, especially when it is this long.
and when you create a line like this on white paper with the subtle brushtouch, it's like you seize only one true necessity out of infinite possibilities, with accuracy, without a moment's hesitation.
musashi miyamoto was able to do that in brush painting as well as in dueling apparently.

ne.jp

big images for details
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3425/koboku.jpg

 

[runner]

about the artist, "vagabond" shows visually what it was like, though it's a fiction based on facts, if anyone is interested.
the author of vagabond did it with pen at an early stage, but now does it with brush, just like him.

multimedia.fnac

stabbystabstab.files.wordpress

photo
Anna Blessman

thanks to philip nod

 

[runner]

altieri's version of sword saint may be unidentifiable in terms of the time it comes, the past or the future.
and a masked model in white leather jumpsuit (unfortunately no pic) looked like a master fencer with a visor from a long-forgotten civilization in some way.

itplanning.co.jp

1+1=3



the pants remind me of such workpants as people back in those days wore.

an image of him from wikipedia

 

[Inaya]

^ beautiful, thanks dear for that. you are a true star, you know.

 

[jcotteri]

2nd times a charm

thanks runner

 

[runner]

you are welcome Inaya, jcotteri




10 years ago there was a maurizio altieri interview although it was just that vis fax he curtly gave answers to some of many questions from a magazine MRh. this is it anyway.




Q. what is the reason you are attracted to leather as material and are exploring its possibilities ?
A. of all the materials, leather feels the most natural and real.


Q. "all by hand with the spirit"
how can the carpe diem spirit be expressed by words ?
A. 1+1=3 ( it's our company name as well )


Q. you started your career as a designer without any fashion school training and the experience in working at tannery or as an assistant to a designer. what was the route through which you came to obtain creative methods ?
A. nothing in particular. after repeated trial and error.


Q. how many artisans and staff members are currently working in your atelier ?
A. four artisans and about twenty staff


Q. now you have the other label, lmaltieri as a non-leather clothing line.
would you care about what is happening with the milan shows etc ?
A. I don't care.


Q. could you tell us about the importance of material in your creation ?
A. the material choice is a critical point in the entire creation.


Q. do you feel that your nationality or hometown can affect your work and style ?
A. I don't particularly, since I dislike the categorization by nationality, ethnicity, etc.


Q. are there any movies, music, art, literature that greatly interested or influenced you ?
A. there are various things, but I don't want to tell.


Q. of the events and movements in the twentieth century fashion, what are the most impressive to you ?
and do you think any world-shaking great movements are possible in the twenty-first century too ?
A. nothing in particular, but I think the new movements that move the times forward will happen.


Q. in the development of fashion that historically has been centering round europe, how do you think in the future african and asian countries can participate ?
A. they have intriguing materials etc. so they may participate in it with the materials.

 

[runner]

in terms of accessibility, he was not like a yeti. with the delivery, he also came to the store to explain the pieces for himself and then go have a drink with the store staff etc. he attended a public gathering where you could have put a question directly to him. the model in those showroom pics in those days was him.
about 1+1=3, I *guess it's from a certain woman. of course it's not her original, but it's one of her favorite phrases. without her support behind the scenes, his project might not have got off the ground and his genius even might have had no chance to flower that way.

 

[softgrey]

runner--you seem to have such a clear understanding of altieri's work...
it all makes sense when you explain it so...

thank you for helping the rest of us to see what you see...


*i never would have seen the pant that way if you hadn't posted the two pics together...
but now i see it so clearly...
...

sword saint...
it's all so poetic, isn't it???...
it really does go beyond the fashion system and into another realm...