Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands | Page 167 | the Fashion Spot

Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

susannanicoletti.substack.com

OTB it seems there are troubles at the horizon.
I was wondering why so many Creative Directors parting ways from the brands of the group recently: Maison Margiela JIL SANDER Marni
I hope the rumours are not true but it seems that cassa integrazione is around the corner for some brands of the group
Cassa integrazione is Italian government salary support to workers and employees when companies cannot afford to pay them.

I sincerely hope to be proven wrong.
When I wrote about #fashion and #luxury Armageddon I meant it. It was April 27, 2024

When I discussed this with a friend and top entrepreneur yesterday, he told me “Susanna, a good part of the industrial sites of LVMH and Kering are in heavy cassa integrazione and redundancies”
Very important brands are undergoing this in silence.
In a previous newsletter I called it “The Silence of the Lambs”
But the show must go on. For the sake of whom?

And we are in June.
Can you imagine September?
 
Pff he is soooo beige. Zzzz Marni is funny bourgeois, mix of prints, colours… all those young italian designers are monochrome, beige, black, nude…
He got a lot of praise these days from his Pitti's show but honestly he would be a mistake for Marni...as you've said too beige...but these execs are full of it. lol
 
Milan circles are saying its M.R but I'm second guessing to write it because its almost July and I think the MGC/JW debacle has done me in. I feel I've seen 9 collections from him and literally nothing has happened yet.
 
Milan circles are saying its M.R but I'm second guessing to write it because its almost July and I think the MGC/JW debacle has done me in. I feel I've seen 9 collections from him and literally nothing has happened yet.
Martine Rose? Meryll Rogge?
 
From what I heard she was allegedly offered it but said no.
Well in that case it's who I meant and good of her to say no and stick to her own brand, definitely not Martine Rose (not Marni style but neither is Hodakova).
Could they get someone good with pattern cutting for Marni? Conseulo pieces were with charm and colour but had a modern cut.
 
Silvia's solo collections are successful for a reason, so why can't LVMH find someone who'd go further in the same direction? None of these names makes sense for this brand, and if any of the rumours is true, they'll have another Givenchy-like, severely damaged brand in their portfolio. Even MGC would be a better match.
 
I’m starting to feel like Silvia may not want the full thing for herself. But then again, for me, she has to let the menswear to someone else and focus on the womenswear. Clearly she has more to offer to women than men.

That being said, I don’t know if Fendi can afford now to have 2 different visions.

She just has to hire a great talent as design director and basta. She can handle the CD position.
 

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